17 inch wheels
#2
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er my advice would be to go somewhere decent where they dont need to be told. I did do a geometry thing somewhere more local & slightly cheaper but wasn't as pin point accurate as the set up i got from TSL (who i am in no way linked with)
Si
Si
#3
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as in even the prodrive setting they used at first place while they were within guidelines these are pretty damn wide so was nice to go with the NOttingham based boys who had an even more tweaked & less flexible set up, bonus
Good plan doing it straight away mind i managed to baldify my first tyres when i went 17"
Si
Good plan doing it straight away mind i managed to baldify my first tyres when i went 17"
Si
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well it was just one of the front ones was bald on the inside edge from where it hadnt/wasnt set up properly, took about 4 months circa 2000 miles (before i noticed it ) so woodnt worry yet but full geometry definately cunning
Si
PS where r u based/going to cant hurt to ask some local scooby owners where they go at a guess
Si
PS where r u based/going to cant hurt to ask some local scooby owners where they go at a guess
#6
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geometry is always going to be a compromise.
max grip = shagged tyres pdq etc.
my track setting sre as follows;
as much neg camber as poss both front and rear, just make sure both sides are set the same. should maybe get 1m25 (ish).
front total toe in .8 (ie .4 each side), rear toe in .4 (ie .2 each side).
the above settings give a very neutral feel on track. just don't get the castor angles the wrong way round unless you like going backwards
hope this helps,
simon
[Edited by RRH - 6/25/2003 8:27:48 AM]
max grip = shagged tyres pdq etc.
my track setting sre as follows;
as much neg camber as poss both front and rear, just make sure both sides are set the same. should maybe get 1m25 (ish).
front total toe in .8 (ie .4 each side), rear toe in .4 (ie .2 each side).
the above settings give a very neutral feel on track. just don't get the castor angles the wrong way round unless you like going backwards
hope this helps,
simon
[Edited by RRH - 6/25/2003 8:27:48 AM]
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#9
Why toe-out should be bad?
I belive max camber rear/front with some toe out rear(say 1-2mm total)/zero toe front eliminates understeer right?
Toe out is an unstable situation but gives lively feeling whereas toe in is more stable but doesn't help the steering. It depends from what you want from your car, personally I'd like a neutral to oversteering car.
JIM
I belive max camber rear/front with some toe out rear(say 1-2mm total)/zero toe front eliminates understeer right?
Toe out is an unstable situation but gives lively feeling whereas toe in is more stable but doesn't help the steering. It depends from what you want from your car, personally I'd like a neutral to oversteering car.
JIM
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