The Standard equipment rear drop links (at least on UK turbo's) are made from hard plastic, which can flex and not transfer all the roll load to the anti roll bar.



The replacement rear Whiteline solid drop links - whilst they are not the most attractive piece of automotive engineering - are much stronger and don’t flex. Because they use harder neoprene bushes there is a slight increase in Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) transmitted to the car body... but you hardly notice it They are replaced by simply removing the upper and lower bolts… when refitting I found it easier to put the lower bolt in first (after well greasing the bush as per the manufacturers instructions) and fit the upper bolt last. You can jack up the opposite side of the car slightly to simulate body roll and to get the bolt to line up if you are struggling.



The standard equipment front drop links are a different shape from the rears but again made from a similar material.



The replacement front Whiteline solid drop links.



There has been much discussion about the merits of the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit (ALK) on this board, I suggest you do a search and read a few of the threads which explain the technicalities far better than I can. The picture below shows the standard (off-side) front wishbone rear mounting bracket. The ALK includes a replacement bracket complete with harder neoprene bush to modify the suspension characteristics.



To fit the ALK you simply remove the existing bracket and replace with the new bracket… Remove the two bolts (A) that hold the bracket to the car body and nut (B) that holds the wishbone stub to the bracket. NOTE these bolts/Nut are very tight… I cracked two sockets trying to get them undone… as well as giving my hand the obligatory bashing You can lever the wishbone slightly to move away from the body to allow removal and refitting of the bracket.



Once the bracket is removed make sure the wishbone stub is clean…



Grease up the bush according to the manufacturers instructions and fit the new bracket on the wishbone stub then refit the bolts/nut. Bounce the vehicle a few times then torque up the fittings.



It is suggested you then get the wheel alignment checked. The ALK also allows more NVH to be transmitted to the body because of the harder bushes used, it’s slightly noticeable at first but you soon get used to it

Hopefully when my hand heals I’ll be able to drive the car and give you my impressions

 

So true about the sockets and hands

I've never owned a car so hard on tools as my Scoob!

Hope it all goes well for you. I'll be doing more or less the same when the weather improves here.

 

Ricey, No the car is not lowered, I'm running standard springs

I have not driven the car very much yet but my initial impression is very favourable, the car feels very neutral, the power on understeer has gone, still waiting to get the tracking checked.

 

silversmith is it as simple a job as you make out? just a case of unbolting the old and bolt the new one on?


cheers mike

 

Yes, the drop links are very easy, I did them without even raising the car. The only problem I had fitting the ALK was as I said because the bolts and nut on mine were VERY tight, I had the luxury of being able to do it over a pit so wasn't too bad but I think I would have been a bit harder if I had only put the car on ramps. If you are prepared with a suitable length bar to give you a bit more leverage you should have no problem

 

there should be a forum specifically for how to threads like these.

stu.

 

it's called the project forum

 

oh yeah dude...so it is

 

Do you notice a great deal of difference with your new kit fitted over standard, also is your car lowered?

Have been thinking of the ALK as my bugeye does lift alot!!! It will soon be lowered hopefully aswel


Ricey

edited to say thanks for showing the pics and info, cheers

[Edited by Rice Rocket - 3/10/2003 6:29:01 PM]