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Not much on this here, so here's what I have done...
Short version: After much umming and arring I decided to go for a 22mm front and rear and am happy with the result
Many folk, especially out US cousins choose all manner of combinations of sway, er I mean anti-roll bars. For example,some go for 27mm front, some 24 front, 22 rear. Many autocross their Impreza's too, so like a balance toward oversteer.
Over the years I have always gone for 22F/24R on classics and new age, but rear bar stiffness has much more of an effect on the hatch, so less is need on the rear than the front.
The OE sizes are 19 rear, 20 front. The 2013 cars are 22F/20R and the '15 cars 24F/20R
I nearly went 22F/20R wanting to replicate what STi have done with keeping a bigger bar up front, but both SuperPro and Whiteline recommend 22 F&R so that's what I did, and am pleased with the result.
The car is balanced with good and safe rotation, with no hint of lift-off oversteer, and zero understeer. I have the front set to hard (which is in the hole nearer to the mounting bracket) and the rear set to medium. Synergise well with the Yokohama AD08R's I fitted last month
I went with Whiteline as SuperPro bars are 120 GBP more expensive, with only a coating whhich ius different to the WL bars. WL do assure us their paint has improved from what it was (drops off in short time and the bar goes rusty). I applied 2 coats of hammerite before fitting as a second barrier
Fitting was pretty straightforward, with only the rear DL's being a PITA. This was the longest part of the job, which on drive up low entry ramps took 3 hours.
Torque settings:
D-Brackets 40Nm/29ft-lbs
F&R end-links 35ft-lbs
Rear subframe to lat link 120Nm/89ft_lbs
Rear brace to D-bracket 44ft-lbs
Last edited by bonesetter; 27 June 2018 at 02:59 PM.
Not much on this here, so here's what I have done...
Short version: After much umming and arring I decided to go for a 22mm front and rear and am happy with the result
Many folk, especially out US cousins choose all manner of combinations of sway, er I mean anti-roll bars. For example,some go for 27mm front, some 24 front, 22 rear. Many autocross their Impreza's too, so like a balance toward oversteer.
Over the years I have always gone for 22F/24R on classics and new age, but rear bar stiffness has much more of an effect on the hatch, so less is need on the rear than the front.
The OE sizes are 19 rear, 20 front. The 2013 cars are 22F/20R and the '15 cars 24F/20R
I nearly went 22F/20R wanting to replicate what STi have done with keeping a bigger bar up front, but both SuperPro and Whiteline recommend 22 F&R so that's what I did, and am pleased with the result.
The car is balanced with good and safe rotation, with no hint of lift-off oversteer, and zero understeer. I have the front set to hard (which is in the hole nearer to the mounting bracket) and the rear set to medium. Synergise well with the Yokohama AD08R's I fitted last month
I went with Whiteline as SuperPro bars are 120 GBP more expensive, with only a coating whhich ius different to the WL bars. WL do assure us their paint has improved from what it was (drops off in short time and the bar goes rusty). I applied 2 coats of hammerite before fitting as a second barrier
Fitting was pretty straightforward, with only the rear DL's being a PITA. This was the longest part of the job, which on drive up low entry ramps took 3 hours.
Torque settings:
D-Brackets 40Nm/29ft-lbs
F&R end-links 35ft-lbs
Rear subframe to lat link 120Nm/89ft_lbs
Rear brace to D-bracket 44ft-lbs
22 front, 20 rear for me, upgraded in Japan for the dealer 330s package. Did you have new links as well?
The front links are recent new SuperPros's and the rears are OE with no play so no need for upgrade
Just got back from 260 miler to North Wales coast and back over Snowdonia. For one thing you can really work the tyres a lot more now as dynamic gemetry is kept under control.
I am going to increase the front camber. They're at just over 1/2° now, which I have to say was fine, but now things can be driven harder, I think it can be max'd out, up to 2°
Now there's something I haven't experienced with a Scooby of mine for many a year...
So I was out the other day and it was wet, and yes, the car understeered. A shocking situation indeed in any Scooby and one which Colin turning in his grave
The rear arb was fixed to its middle hole so was duly changed to its firmest. The situation hasn't happened again and I was out in moist conditions the other day
I've not been completely happy with the amount of rotation from the car, even with the arb change. I still think the car needs a little more on the rear, probably a 24 rear set on the middle setting (front 22 on hard), which is the way I've always gone on all my previous Scoob's, it was because I had read here and there the hatch doesn't need as much rear bar than previous...
If I was doing it again, I would go 22/24 from the off
Never had any issues with mine, however I never push on when damp on summer tyres; aquaplaning on the straights is warning enough.
My blue jap ones are quite rusty, and I'm looking for new rear droplinks, but they all seem dear so may go oem
I’m on a 22f /24 rear not had much seat time to tell what it’s like
What influenced you to go 22/24 Raggy?
Both Whiteline and SuperPro recommend 22/22 for the hatch, which is what finally swung me in the finish
However, with the behaviour my car has the sensible thing to try is softening the front bar now before swapping out for a thicker rear bar. Plenty of compliancy as is in the springs/dampers so I should work with that as much as possible
Never had any issues with mine, however I never push on when damp on summer tyres; aquaplaning on the straights is warning enough.
My blue jap ones are quite rusty, and I'm looking for new rear droplinks, but they all seem dear so may go oem
It's more a case of how you prefer the car set-up, rather than attempting to dial out understeer (although I really do not want ANY understeer whatsoever).
My car both understtered and still has not enough rotation for where I like it - I prefer the pivot point to be right under my butt
SuperPro's DL's are guaranteed for life and don't cost much more than OE
Imo the front it too firm to balance the rear, I'd soften the front and then work on the rear, the front turn in shouldn't be affected that much if you balance rear as it will give some rear biased steer.
all imo.
Imo the front it too firm to balance the rear, I'd soften the front and then work on the rear, the front turn in shouldn't be affected that much if you balance rear as it will give some rear biased steer.
all imo.
I have an oil change coming up so will swap front holes then and give things a wirl
It's not a million miles from where I want now, it's a case now of tweaking cus I can
Not much on this here, so here's what I have done...
Short version: After much umming and arring I decided to go for a 22mm front and rear and am happy with the result
Many folk, especially out US cousins choose all manner of combinations of sway, er I mean anti-roll bars. For example,some go for 27mm front, some 24 front, 22 rear. Many autocross their Impreza's too, so like a balance toward oversteer.
Over the years I have always gone for 22F/24R on classics and new age, but rear bar stiffness has much more of an effect on the hatch, so less is need on the rear than the front.
The OE sizes are 19 rear, 20 front. The 2013 cars are 22F/20R and the '15 cars 24F/20R
I nearly went 22F/20R wanting to replicate what STi have done with keeping a bigger bar up front, but both SuperPro and Whiteline recommend 22 F&R so that's what I did, and am pleased with the result.
The car is balanced with good and safe rotation, with no hint of lift-off oversteer, and zero understeer. I have the front set to hard (which is in the hole nearer to the mounting bracket) and the rear set to medium. Synergise well with the Yokohama AD08R's I fitted last month
I went with Whiteline as SuperPro bars are 120 GBP more expensive, with only a coating whhich ius different to the WL bars. WL do assure us their paint has improved from what it was (drops off in short time and the bar goes rusty). I applied 2 coats of hammerite before fitting as a second barrier
Fitting was pretty straightforward, with only the rear DL's being a PITA. This was the longest part of the job, which on drive up low entry ramps took 3 hours.
Torque settings:
D-Brackets 40Nm/29ft-lbs
F&R end-links 35ft-lbs
Rear subframe to lat link 120Nm/89ft_lbs
Rear brace to D-bracket 44ft-lbs
just fitted my superpro 24mm front and rear arb arms and drop links. Ended up going medium on both bars but I’m tempted to go hard on the front and stay medium on the rear on my hatch. Feels much better than the oem ones though.
Last edited by Matty81; 23 August 2018 at 10:36 PM.
just fitted my superpro 24mm front and rear arb arms and drop links. Ended up going medium on both bars but I’m tempted to go hard on the front and stay medium on the rear on my hatch. Feels much better than the oem ones though.
Nice - should be a massive difference over OE
Any particular reason you went 24/24? Running any other suspension goodies?
Any particular reason you went 24/24? Running any other suspension goodies?
superpro was only selling them as a package in either 22/24 all round so I went with 24. I like how they feel but I’m tempted to see if it makes a difference by putting the front bar on the hard section, as I believe, because of the weight of the front end compared to the back, it needs to be on a harder setting to stop it from bouncing around.
i definitely wanna buy some new superpro bushes, not the whole lot as I’ve read that changing the whole bush setup leads to a harder ride which doesn’t sound comfortable. And I’ll be buying the superpro roll centre adjustable ball at some point aswell.
what about you mate ?
Last edited by Matty81; 24 August 2018 at 07:48 AM.
Any particular reason you went 24/24? Running any other suspension goodies?
the only thing I have found is that when I go over bumps I get a squeak. The guy asked me to take a look after he fitted it all and everything was great. The only thing I can think of is that the old original bushes, which are currently on there can’t take the xtra weight of the new bars and droplinks.
superpro was only selling them as a package in either 22/24 all round so I went with 24. I like how they feel but I’m tempted to see if it makes a difference by putting the front bar on the hard section, as I believe, because of the weight of the front end compared to the back, it needs to be on a harder setting to stop it from bouncing around.
i definitely wanna buy some new superpro bushes, not the whole lot as I’ve read that changing the whole bush setup leads to a harder ride which doesn’t sound comfortable. And I’ll be buying the superpro roll centre adjustable ball at some point aswell.
what about you mate ?
Strange, as when I was buying SuperPro's recommendation was 22 F&R...?
Remember roll resistance makes more of a difference on the hatch
Bars usually always come with bushes
One thing, the new ones are 'greasless' which many say doesn't work and squeak
I have whiteline arbs with the black greaseless bushes no issues of squeeking
he said to bring it back so he can take a look again anyway. I reckon it’s too much pressure on the other bushes though because they haven’t been changed since the car was bought into production
I have an oil change coming up so will swap front holes then and give things a wirl
It's not a million miles from where I want now, it's a case now of tweaking cus I can
if it's any consolation, on my type r I've got Perrin 23F/25R bars on mine, I had the rear on hardest and the car constantly lost back end when pushing, set it to medium and still occasionally flicked out when I didn't want it to, set it to softest and made it a lot better (this was at Ellington totb circuit) but with the car being rear biased anyway when dccd fully open it gives room to play, (the type r dccd is 35/65 which is quite a lot )but I don't want to play, I want it to grip all 4s.
on a normal non dccd car then it's usually front soft and rear hard. But not on a dccd car.
im guessing your dccd is auto? Not sure on the actual biased of the hatch Jdm when full open? So probably the rear bar on hard is conflicting with it.
have you driven the car with auto off and dccd fully open to see if it give you a better feel?
Last edited by bustaMOVEs; 24 August 2018 at 06:34 PM.
if it's any consolation, on my type r I've got Perrin 23F/25R bars on mine, I had the rear on hardest and the car constantly lost back end when pushing, set it to medium and still occasionally flicked out when I didn't want it to, set it to softest and made it a lot better (this was at Ellington totb circuit) but with the car being rear biased anyway when dccd fully open it gives room to play, (the type r dccd is 35/65 which is quite a lot )but I don't want to play, I want it to grip all 4s.
on a normal non dccd car then it's usually front soft and rear hard. But not on a dccd car.
im guessing your dccd is auto? Not sure on the actual biased of the hatch Jdm when full open? So probably the rear bar on hard is conflicting with it.
My Type R has 22f/24r front hard, rear middle and is perfect - rotated right under driver's seat, which is just where I want it
I would like to get the hatch the same. When it's dry I bias the rear (and turn VDC to semi-off)
My Type R has 22f/24r front hard, rear middle and is perfect - rotated right under driver's seat, which is just where I want it
I would like to get the hatch the same. When it's dry I bias the rear (and turn VDC to semi-off)
rotated right under drivers seat? Don't follow....
middle is where i wanted it, but on super tight corners it was giving way a little, but saying the I've since fitted new suspension as other where rock hard crap no rebound etc tiens lol, so now I should be able to move to middle setting and it be perfect.
The car's behaviour has totally transformed. I shouldn't be so amazed as I've seen it so many times, but to finally get the car's chassis to where I knew it was capable of is really pleasing
So, yes, the car rotates now, right in the centre. As soon as any steering input is introduced the whole car starts to turn, front and rear. Much less steering input is needed, everything is more active, the chassis has literally come alive
Biasing the diff to rear minus didn't make any real perceivable difference before, but now it does. With the VDC in the semi-off setting (green light) there's quite a lot of fun to be exploited
Yesterday's 120 mile spin round was one of the best Scooby drives ever. I was so excited I said I am going to sell the Type R as this hatch has surpassed it for giggle value...
Amazing what difference swapping to a different hole makes
Edit:
So, to clarify - getting the sway bars synergised is critical. In my case, and for my preference on a 22 front and rear adjustable set-up I have settled on front softer setting and rear hard
I also think without the rear subframe bush inserts you wont achieve the same control
Last edited by bonesetter; 28 August 2018 at 09:44 PM.
So you've thrown me there, as I'm about to buy Superpro 20f/22r or 22f/24r as the existing 20/22 combo suits the spec C. What would be the expectation going up a size?
The car's behaviour has totally transformed. I shouldn't be so amazed as I've seen it so many times, but to finally get the car's chassis to where I knew it was capable of is really pleasing
So, yes, the car rotates now, right in the centre. As soon as any steering input is introduced the whole car starts to turn, front and rear. Much less steering input is needed, everything is more active, the chassis has literally come alive
Biasing the diff to rear minus didn't make any real perceivable difference before, but now it does. With the VDC in the semi-off setting (green light) there's quite a lot of fun to be exploited
Yesterday's 120 mile spin round was one of the best Scooby drives ever. I was so excited I said I am going to sell the Type R as this hatch has surpassed it for giggle value...
Amazing what difference swapping to a different hole makes
Edit:
So, to clarify - getting the sway bars synergised is critical. In my case, and for my preference on a 22 front and rear adjustable set-up I have settled on front softer setting and rear hard
I also think without the rear subframe bush inserts you wont achieve the same control
im tempted to set mine up with a softer front and hard rear actually. At the moment I’m on medium settings front and rear, but I wanna have a play now and see what it’s like.
27 June 2018, 02:56 PM
GR Series (08+) STi Uprated ARBs (Sway)
