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I recently purchased a 2005 Blobeyes Wide Track STI.
I quickly noticed the steering wheel was out by few degrees whiles driving straight. I went for tracking and most of the numbers are out, especially front and rear toe which need correction. Mechanics tried to fix Rear Toe, adjusted it to the max range but ended up being worse than initially. Front links are too rusty, nuts getting soft...
So I think I will go for a full replacement of the bushings and bolt.
I am thinking about Powerflex.
Do you guys have any suggestions ?
Last edited by Angus0413; 01 November 2017 at 06:45 PM.
I would stick to Genuine Subaru items, you can get them from ICP and others on Ebay for a good discount on the outrageous prices Subaru charge for these things.
I've had no problem adjusting the rear lateral inner arm bolts before. But if you can't get correct adjustment, then the next step would be to replace the arms.
My 06 Hawk is on stands right now waiting on replacement coil over struts and I'm in the process of changing out quite a few of the bolts and nuts as I go. Rear ARB is off to be re-powder-coated, new Drop links and all new Strut bottom mounting bolts. I'm only now looking at he front end and will clean up all the suspension with de-greaser and lube the bushings and inner mounts.
I had the old girl under sealed a couple of years ago, but the only thing I'm really worried about is the exhaust which is quite rusty.
It's a constant battle with old cars. Your's is 13 now, mine 12. Keep at it, the Wide track is the best of the breed!
I will check for parts on ebay as you suggest. What is "ICP"?
In the garage where I took it for tracking, I remember they tried to rotate the bolts, not the washer... that is probably why they did not manage to correct it.
Anyway, I am pretty sure handling will be improved with new bushings, I still hesitate between powerflex or genuine parts.
I got my local paint shop to under seal my car after a damn good cleaning off. ICP advertise on Ebay and though not a great deal cheaper than dealer prices, are a significant enough discount to go with as they are O.E. parts in O.E. packaging.
I adjusted my rear tracking by loosening the nut and rotating the bolt. The Washers should rotate with the bolt I think, but it was too dirty down there to really see at the time. I was on a mate's laser alignment rig and the garage was a bit dimly lit that evening when I went on it. The bolt rotating gave a definite change in toe, enough to set at exactly.
Best of luck. My next task is to get the exhaust changed. At 12 years and 60,000 miles, the original rear section is starting to rust badly. Whether to go with a 3" or stick with 2.5" is the question...
I understood that the eccentric washers with the notch are not the genuine parts...
The genuine part is as below. Here the washers are going to rotate with the bolt.
Also I realized that for the front wishbones, some bushing are eccentric and permit an adjustment of the caster whereas other are "normal" and do not permit this adjustment. I would like to stick to what on my car now, but I do not know what it is.
Also I realized that for the front wishbones, some bushing are eccentric and permit an adjustment of the caster whereas other are "normal" and do not permit this adjustment. I would like to stick to what on my car now, but I do not know what it is.
Any clue?
Standard OEM bushes do not allow caster adjustment. You only have camber adjustment via an excentric top strut to hub bolt.
Rear camber is fixed from factory but when lowering it can be "adjusted" using the kit you show or many other brands of camber bolts on the market.
They replace the original strut to hub bolts similar to the fronts
11 October 2017, 10:43 AM
Tracking out - Rebuild
