Hello All,

I've just got hold of Cusco front & rear strut braces (cheers Matt ) and cos the instructions are all in Japanese and there are no other bits supplied I have a few questions.

1. Will they go straight on to the suspension bolts using the standard nuts?

2. Do I need any other washers or anything like that?

3. Do I have to torque the nuts to a set value (lbs/ft pls.) or just tight?

4. Once on how much load should I put on the braces with the adjuster and will it affect the geometery? If so will it need checking?

Any other hints & tips appreciated.

Thats it for the mo.

TIA

Ian

 

Ian,

My original plan was on my next trip to Powerstation was to get them to fit them, followed by a Geometry check.....

Matt

 

Yep,

I was kinda thinking down that line as well but thought it mite be worth finding out if it could be DIY.

I know if I go to PS i'm gonna end up spending loads more dosh

Ian

 

Ian,

1. Will they go straight on to the suspension bolts using the standard nuts?
> Don't have the Cusco bars myself so don'æt know for sure about this one. But as long as the standard nuts sufficiently overlap the holes in the end brackets, the originals should do just fine.

2. Do I need any other washers or anything like that?
>As above.

3. Do I have to torque the nuts to a set value (lbs/ft pls.) or just tight?
> Front torque on my MY00 is 18Nm as far as I can remember. Most probably the same for all corners on all standard non STi MY's.
Don't overtorque, the bolts may break.

4. Once on how much load should I put on the braces with the adjuster and will it affect the geometery? If so will it need checking?
> Don't preload the brace. That is how you'll upset the geometry. Adjust it so it just touches the 'inner sides' of the bolts on near/offside, and tighten the nuts.

Regards,
Simen

 

Thanks Simen,

nm to lbs/ft anybody?

Ian

 

13,28

Here:
www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/energy.htm

It's acually a brilliant page if you ask me.
Simen.

[Edited by SSE - 6/14/2002 6:46:07 PM]

 

I have a lovely english/metric conversion program for all sorts of values if any one wants it. It is pretty small, just email me and I'll send you a copy.

guildtrent@michigan.gov

BTW, 18 N/m = 13.3 lbf/ft.

[Edited by dsmawd - 6/14/2002 7:06:02 PM]

 

Cheers DS & SSE,

YHM

Ian

[Edited by ian_sadler - 6/15/2002 12:40:03 PM]

 

I *would* preload the brace the get max benefit - but this will likely upset the geometry.

My question: is it better to push out or pull in?!

Richard

 

dowser why would you get max benefit by preloading? The idea (IMHO) is to ensure geometry settings are retained during high load cornering, so tightening it up whilst not under load will maintain the settings which have been set (bearing in mind these have been set under no load).

OK push out or pull in if someone like PS can't acheive the target geometry values, but don't preload for the sake of it.

That's my schpeil anyway

 

Dunno' really - remember reading it somewhere

But I assume you get a stiffer solution if the brace is already in a state of stress - if the first mm or msec of movement is the brace loading up b4 it transfers forces across to the other turret, then preloading it removes that instant of loading. That could, of course, be a BoA......but it's a logical BoA!

I applied a half turn of pre-load (I pushed out ) after I'd adjusted as much as possible by hand. I don't feel it's interfered with geometry....much - but it will be redone soon anyways.

Richard

 

Ian, Why not talk to Dave at Risboro 4 Wheel Drive 01844 274652. He'll fit them for you, and/or do a geometry check. He's just fitted my lower front one for me, I did the top fron and back ones myself. Standard nuts are fine, don't know the torque settings just did them tight. I did preload the braces, but then Dave set the geometry afterwards for me anyway.

 

Always have the geometry checked after fitting a strutbrace. Reason is that you're undoing completely the bolts that secure the shocks to the chasis, before putting something on and re-tightening. There is an opportunity there for some geometry movement (might already have been pre-tensed) so makes sense to do so.

I also recall that pre-loading should be done. I think this is because when load is applied, there is then no potential free-play or slack to be taken up by the unstressed strutbrace. Remember free-play or free-movement is what you're spending the money on to remove.

Fitting is a DIY job, just a matter of the correct spanners, so save the money in having that done, then check the geometry.

 

Thanks all.

Went to Power Station this weekend and had ALK, Uprated front & rear sway bars & links fitted.

Followed by geom set up.

Lets see what it does at Donno.

Ian