How to Fit Roof Vane spoiler to subaru Impreza
Hi, I've titled this to hopefully get flagged up in google searches easily.
I've looked long and hard for a guide to fitting the little roof vane to newage Scoobies and the best of them are frankly, pure crap.
I'll probably register on the Yank site just to post a link or tell our colonial cousins to stop drilling their poor cars to death!
I haven't got mine fully done yet but posted this up now just in case anyone finds it and it stops them butchering their car!
Anyway,
If you want to put a roof vane as per Hawkeye Sti's then here's the definitive guide- or at least part 1.
1. Have you got a genuine one- alumin(i)um with side covers or an aftermarket one?
2. If genuine, is it new or second hand, like mine was?
Basically, Aftermarket ones are one piece and you fit by bolting from the inside or sticking them on- your choice and good luck! Bolting can use the measurements below only if the moulded in nuts are spaced as per O.E., i.e. 75mm. If not I'd bond it!!
Genuine ones come with alloy extruded centre, bolted to side plates with the plastic coloured cover which clips in and is secured with small plastic clips. The plates have a plastic guide prong riveted into place. This aids fitting in the factory but could help you too.
The guides I've seen tell you to drill through all three layers of steel in the pillar and use long bolts to fit. The plastic guide prong is cut off and then you mastic them all in. Agh! FFS, how crude!
I have done the hard work (drilled out the rivets from the plastic guide to remove then re-rivet back in afterwards). So you don't have to.
If it's genuine and new, you have a double sided sticky pad under it. If it's second hand you need to replace this as it's critical for keeping water out. Subaru Uk charge £7.50 for the pad, so no excuse not to get one as it's the key to keeping it waterproof inside.
The factory fitting is by Rivnut. Unlike the other guides the RIGHT way is not to drill through all three layers but only the first. three holes each side are required and Rivnuts will be fitted to the outer ones.
You will need masking tape, a tape measure and a pen/pencil, and of course drill and bits.
Remember...before we start, lets orientate ourselves properly.
Up means towards the front along the line of the window side door edge.
Down is towards the boot.
In is towards the window.
Out means towards you or away from the window.
Tape the upper edge of the pillar with masking tape so you can draw on it.
Mark a line that continues the line of the top edge of the rear window OUT along towards the door edge.
On this line measure from the inside edge of the window trim (the plastic black trim that runs over the car front to rear and forms the roof rain sills.) OUT for 62mm, Mark. This is the centre for the forward bolt.
Measure a line OUT from the trim inner edge OUT 63mm and down 75mm from first point. This is the rearward bolt hole.
Measure DOWN 35mm from the front bolt and OUT 70mm from the trim and mark. This is the hole for the guide. (Optional if you want to cut the plastic prong , so be it.)
I will drill the centre hole out to 6mm/6.5mm or 1/4" if you are so inclined (not critical either way) initially and obtain the correct RIVNUTs for the bolts, they're M6x1.25mm pitch.
Mark
I've looked long and hard for a guide to fitting the little roof vane to newage Scoobies and the best of them are frankly, pure crap.
I'll probably register on the Yank site just to post a link or tell our colonial cousins to stop drilling their poor cars to death!
I haven't got mine fully done yet but posted this up now just in case anyone finds it and it stops them butchering their car!
Anyway,
If you want to put a roof vane as per Hawkeye Sti's then here's the definitive guide- or at least part 1.
1. Have you got a genuine one- alumin(i)um with side covers or an aftermarket one?
2. If genuine, is it new or second hand, like mine was?
Basically, Aftermarket ones are one piece and you fit by bolting from the inside or sticking them on- your choice and good luck! Bolting can use the measurements below only if the moulded in nuts are spaced as per O.E., i.e. 75mm. If not I'd bond it!!
Genuine ones come with alloy extruded centre, bolted to side plates with the plastic coloured cover which clips in and is secured with small plastic clips. The plates have a plastic guide prong riveted into place. This aids fitting in the factory but could help you too.
The guides I've seen tell you to drill through all three layers of steel in the pillar and use long bolts to fit. The plastic guide prong is cut off and then you mastic them all in. Agh! FFS, how crude!
I have done the hard work (drilled out the rivets from the plastic guide to remove then re-rivet back in afterwards). So you don't have to.
If it's genuine and new, you have a double sided sticky pad under it. If it's second hand you need to replace this as it's critical for keeping water out. Subaru Uk charge £7.50 for the pad, so no excuse not to get one as it's the key to keeping it waterproof inside.
The factory fitting is by Rivnut. Unlike the other guides the RIGHT way is not to drill through all three layers but only the first. three holes each side are required and Rivnuts will be fitted to the outer ones.
You will need masking tape, a tape measure and a pen/pencil, and of course drill and bits.
Remember...before we start, lets orientate ourselves properly.
Up means towards the front along the line of the window side door edge.
Down is towards the boot.
In is towards the window.
Out means towards you or away from the window.
Tape the upper edge of the pillar with masking tape so you can draw on it.
Mark a line that continues the line of the top edge of the rear window OUT along towards the door edge.
On this line measure from the inside edge of the window trim (the plastic black trim that runs over the car front to rear and forms the roof rain sills.) OUT for 62mm, Mark. This is the centre for the forward bolt.
Measure a line OUT from the trim inner edge OUT 63mm and down 75mm from first point. This is the rearward bolt hole.
Measure DOWN 35mm from the front bolt and OUT 70mm from the trim and mark. This is the hole for the guide. (Optional if you want to cut the plastic prong , so be it.)
I will drill the centre hole out to 6mm/6.5mm or 1/4" if you are so inclined (not critical either way) initially and obtain the correct RIVNUTs for the bolts, they're M6x1.25mm pitch.
Mark
Last edited by Markyscoob; Nov 10, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
The Rivnuts are M6 and outer diameter for drilling was 9.5mm with the ones I got. Went in very easily so my car is now ready to bolt the spoiler on.
The coloured plastic covers are, wait for it...£81 ea. I need to paint mine instead......
The coloured plastic covers are, wait for it...£81 ea. I need to paint mine instead......
If only I could figure that one out.....PM me with your email and I'll send you a couple of pictures.
My spoiler went on a touch tight so I've edited the description and moved the holes out 1mm on each side which should make the fit better.
Mark.
My spoiler went on a touch tight so I've edited the description and moved the holes out 1mm on each side which should make the fit better.
Mark.

I have already cut a hole in my roof for a spec c vent so a few more holes won't matter
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Martin
Has anyone actually fitted the original hawk roof spoiler to there car by drilling and bolting it? Read the guide but can't get my head around not drilling through the three layers lol. Any help much appreciated guys
Martin
Martin
Martin.
Read it properly. You MUST not drill through all three layers! It's not rocket science.
My guide basically says you cover the corner with masking tape and mark holes to my measurements then drill through the first layer only three holes. You must get RivNuts fitted which are essentially threaded rivets that all bodyshops carry.
You need the sticky gasket to stop leaks and it's job done. If you mark and drill the holes and pop round to a body shop and ask nicely then they'll fit you four Rivnuts for a small fee (if so you didn't ask nicely enough).
It saves all the hassle. Honest.
If you want pictures pm me your email and I'll email you some.
Mark
Read it properly. You MUST not drill through all three layers! It's not rocket science.
My guide basically says you cover the corner with masking tape and mark holes to my measurements then drill through the first layer only three holes. You must get RivNuts fitted which are essentially threaded rivets that all bodyshops carry.
You need the sticky gasket to stop leaks and it's job done. If you mark and drill the holes and pop round to a body shop and ask nicely then they'll fit you four Rivnuts for a small fee (if so you didn't ask nicely enough).
It saves all the hassle. Honest.
If you want pictures pm me your email and I'll email you some.
Mark
Cheers for your reply mate yes re read it and understand it better and yea your right not rocket science! I'll pm you email addy mate if you could send me some pics thatd be great and much appreciated
Martin
Martin
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