Notices
ScoobyNet General General Subaru Discussion
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

DBA Discs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05 January 2018, 08:18 AM
  #1  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default DBA Discs

Morning guys.

I’m about to buy new brakes for my 03 JDM STI Blob and seeked advice from Alyn at AS Performance where I buy all my parts. Alyn was as helpful as ever and for my needs (daily and fast road driving only) suggested DBA discs. TBH he’s such a helpful guy and clearly knows his stuff I feel I should just bite the bullet and get what he suggests but in this case I’ve never heard of DBA before and I’ve spent a long time researching various options prior to the phone call.

Since speaking to Alyn searching this forum doesn’t bring much up, it seems they aren’t popular. Most searches are from a decade ago and some of which suggest cracking problems with the drilled discs, the ones I’ve been suggested to buy are plain faced.

Whats peoples thoughts? Any good? My main concern isn’t the advice from Alyn or the quality, it’s fhe price - discs only for all ; corners are going to cost £420! Is it worth it? I’m a firm believer of paying for what you get but that’s a lot for discs alone.

For pads to suit Alyn suggested either PFC Z rated or better still for mainly daily driving and refinement the Brembo Sport Max.

What do people think on any of the above or alternative suggestions. I’m happy to spend the money if it’s worth it but I can’t help feel for the driving I do is nearly £700 on a brake set up worth it?

Thanks. Binny
Old 05 January 2018, 08:51 AM
  #2  
stonejedi
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
 
stonejedi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,439
Received 149 Likes on 109 Posts
Default

DBA have been making quality performance disc for years now,and Performance Friction has been my pad choice since I started to upgrade my own Subaru over 13 years now,It will be a very good stopping set up on your car that’s for sure.SJ.
Old 05 January 2018, 08:53 AM
  #3  
stonejedi
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (51)
 
stonejedi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,439
Received 149 Likes on 109 Posts
Default

As they say mate you get the quality that you pay for....SJ.
Old 05 January 2018, 09:22 AM
  #4  
Godspeed Brakes
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
 
Godspeed Brakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
Posts: 8,004
Received 49 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .

https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html

And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .

P&P is £15

Hope this helps

Cheers Ian
Old 05 January 2018, 03:26 PM
  #5  
Paben
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Paben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Taken to the hills
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

It's a shame that these discs are soon covered in red rust if the car isn't moved for a week or so. The disc/PF Z combo is great apart from that.
Old 05 January 2018, 05:09 PM
  #6  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by stonejedi
As they say mate you get the quality that you pay for....SJ.
Thanks for the input everyone. In the grand scheme of things spending the extra for the quality is always worth it so I’ve ordered the DBA discs and Brembo sport pads from Alyn.Thanks again.Binny

Last edited by Binny; 14 January 2018 at 05:41 PM.
Old 06 January 2018, 11:27 PM
  #7  
bloomydj
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
bloomydj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 663
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Ian

Will the £640 package 2 peice discs fit AP7040 calipers ?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Godspeed Brakes
Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .

https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html

And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .

P&P is £15

Hope this helps

Cheers Ian

Trending Topics

Old 14 January 2018, 05:53 PM
  #8  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

So today was a disaster. Finally had the time to fit the brakes, well the rears at least. From start to finish the whole bloody job was a ball ache.
Started at the front as they were reason for replacing the brakes in the first place. Soaked the 2x caliper bolts with WD40 to start with, left them a while but could have left it all day and it probably still wouldn’t have made a difference. I could not shift either bolts. In the end I gave up leaving them to soak some more and moved onto the other front, this time only to access the bolts to WD40 them before leaving to soak to move onto the rears.I was confident the rears would be an easy job as I’ve had them off recently (in the summer) to sort a squeaking hand brake issue. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Got the top bolt off but the bottom came out some way and tighten. I lubed it up, drove it back in and out a little at a time to work the fluid until yep, you guessed it the bolt snapped. I then spent all morning drilling the snapped bolt out, then over to screwfix for a tap and dye set, before finally sorting the issue.I thought that was the end of the problem. Once again, NOPE!! This time the I couldn’t get the old disc off. I’ve used the drive in a bolt into the holes in the disc technique but it was well there. I had this issue the first time I took the disc off but it was just rust. This time it felt different. I managed to work it forward a little and a small spring fell out from the back plate. It was one of the springs that held the hand brake shoe on. The issue was now the handbrake was able to move, piveting from the centre it was catching on the rusty inside lip of the old disc. FFS!!! I even resulted in putting everything back together to go for a drive to the end of the road and back gently applying the handbrake to maybe loosen it but that was a waste of time. Long story short I eventually got it off, refurbed the handbrake and was able to finally fit the new disc. Ironically it took me only 5 mins to put it all back together, just 7 hours to get to this point!!! Thankfully the other side came off fine.Not only was I knackered, frustrated and fed up but it was almost dark so I couldn’t go back to the fronts to see if the WD40 had made any difference at all to the seized bolts. Tbh I cannot be doing with another snapped bolt so I may end up paying a garage to do the fronts, at least they’ll have some heat to help the bolts loose. I may give it a little go but any resistance and it’s tighten it up and left well alone. Annoyingly the front discs you could flick off, it’s just thoughs 2x caliper bolts turning a simple 10 min job into a job from hell.

Last edited by Binny; 14 January 2018 at 06:09 PM.
Old 14 January 2018, 06:15 PM
  #9  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Some pics :






Old 14 January 2018, 07:09 PM
  #10  
Badgie
Scooby Regular
 
Badgie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Dumfries, Scotland
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You could try some penetrating fluid to soak the bolts. WD40 won't do much for stuck bolts since its for water displacement.
Old 14 January 2018, 07:09 PM
  #11  
Jon T
Scooby Regular
 
Jon T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North wales
Posts: 630
Received 20 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

I feel for you man. Had the same thing. Had brake judder when i first had the car went to change the front disks and pads and both the threads in the offside caliper pulled out . Off to screw fix for a helecoil kit managed to do it without taking it off the car. Changed the pads both sides ( wasnt going to chance the other side )and luckily it was crap pads. This summer its going to my local subaru specialist havin all the calipers taken off and sent to godspeed. I not goin anywhere near them after that nightmare of a day

Last edited by Jon T; 14 January 2018 at 07:11 PM.
Old 14 January 2018, 07:18 PM
  #12  
Lefty1
Scooby Regular
 
Lefty1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Southampton
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Godspeed Brakes
Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .

https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html

And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .

P&P is £15

Hope this helps

Cheers Ian
What would the price be for the 2 piece discs, rear discs, PFC pads and stainless hoses?
Old 14 January 2018, 08:07 PM
  #13  
Wull
Scooby Regular
 
Wull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Killin
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Binny
So today was a disaster. Finally had the time to fit the brakes, well the rears at least. From start to finish the whole bloody job was a ball ache.
Started at the front as they were reason for replacing the brakes in the first place. Soaked the 2x caliper bolts with WD40 to start with, left them a while but could have left it all day and it probably still wouldn’t have made a difference. I could not shift either bolts. In the end I gave up leaving them to soak some more and moved onto the other front, this time only to access the bolts to WD40 them before leaving to soak to move onto the rears.I was confident the rears would be an easy job as I’ve had them off recently (in the summer) to sort a squeaking hand brake issue. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Got the top bolt off but the bottom came out some way and tighten. I lubed it up, drove it back in and out a little at a time to work the fluid until yep, you guessed it the bolt snapped. I then spent all morning drilling the snapped bolt out, then over to screwfix for a tap and dye set, before finally sorting the issue.I thought that was the end of the problem. Once again, NOPE!! This time the I couldn’t get the old disc off. I’ve used the drive in a bolt into the holes in the disc technique but it was well there. I had this issue the first time I took the disc off but it was just rust. This time it felt different. I managed to work it forward a little and a small spring fell out from the back plate. It was one of the springs that held the hand brake shoe on. The issue was now the handbrake was able to move, piveting from the centre it was catching on the rusty inside lip of the old disc. FFS!!! I even resulted in putting everything back together to go for a drive to the end of the road and back gently applying the handbrake to maybe loosen it but that was a waste of time. Long story short I eventually got it off, refurbed the handbrake and was able to finally fit the new disc. Ironically it took me only 5 mins to put it all back together, just 7 hours to get to this point!!! Thankfully the other side came off fine.Not only was I knackered, frustrated and fed up but it was almost dark so I couldn’t go back to the fronts to see if the WD40 had made any difference at all to the seized bolts. Tbh I cannot be doing with another snapped bolt so I may end up paying a garage to do the fronts, at least they’ll have some heat to help the bolts loose. I may give it a little go but any resistance and it’s tighten it up and left well alone. Annoyingly the front discs you could flick off, it’s just thoughs 2x caliper bolts turning a simple 10 min job into a job from hell.

And that’s why I’m not looking forward to doing mine this week coming, the bolts look proper rusty

I’ll see how it goes but the first hint of “fookin ell” I’m taking the motor to my mates garage.
Old 14 January 2018, 10:32 PM
  #14  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Your supposed to let the handbrake shoes off via the access hole on rear plate , small screwdriver wind in/out
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
Old 15 January 2018, 07:41 AM
  #15  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
Your supposed to let the handbrake shoes off via the access hole on rear plate , small screwdriver wind in/out
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
Mate, did that already. The moment the disc wouldn’t budge loosening the handbreak cable was the first thing I did. Annoyingly as said before I’ve done all this previously when I had handbrake issues so I’ve experience taking the rears off and none of this happened last time.On a plus note I normally get initial binding from my handbrake first time I use the car of a day but this morning it was perfect. Maybe the discs were the problem and the build up of rust internally was the cause. They looked in good nick previously but the binding has now gone. Happy days.
Old 15 January 2018, 08:57 AM
  #16  
Godspeed Brakes
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
 
Godspeed Brakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
Posts: 8,004
Received 49 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Lefty1
What would the price be for the 2 piece discs, rear discs, PFC pads and stainless hoses?
This is our track pack , which is what you're wanting , but includes fluid

https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...rack-pack.html

Cheers Ian
Old 15 January 2018, 09:07 AM
  #17  
Godspeed Brakes
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
 
Godspeed Brakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
Posts: 8,004
Received 49 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Binny
Mate, did that already. The moment the disc wouldn’t budge loosening the handbreak cable was the first thing I did. Annoyingly as said before I’ve done all this previously when I had handbrake issues so I’ve experience taking the rears off and none of this happened last time.On a plus note I normally get initial binding from my handbrake first time I use the car of a day but this morning it was perfect. Maybe the discs were the problem and the build up of rust internally was the cause. They looked in good nick previously but the binding has now gone. Happy days.
HI
Still sounded like the handbrake shoes needed loosening off , loosening the cable wouldn't do it , as the adjuster between the 2 shoes would still hold the shoes apart enough to not get the disc off.
On the backplate there is a rubber grommet , remove that and slacken off the adjuster , it will slacken the shoes enough for the disc to fall off.

That's why it pulled the spring off , as you're pulling the disc off , it's pulling the shoes off , probably bent that round disc that quarter turns onto the pin holding the shoes in place , if so they are easy to bend back into shape and re-use.

When fitting it all back on , you need to tighten up the shoe adjusters through the backplate until you feel a little binding , then slacken off slightly , and then adjust the handbrake cable , quite a few have ignored the shoe adjuster and just done it on the cable , which is the wrong way of doing it.

The only other time the disc wont come off , is if it's rusted onto the drive flange , and shock hit with a mallet ' breaks the seal ' and it will come off then , as long as the shoes are loose enough .

Hope this helps
Cheers Ian

Last edited by Godspeed Brakes; 15 January 2018 at 09:11 AM.
Old 15 January 2018, 09:21 AM
  #18  
Godspeed Brakes
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
 
Godspeed Brakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk
Posts: 8,004
Received 49 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Just to add , if anyone has issues with threads , either bleed nipple snapping , or lug threads , we are set up to fix these , and do so on a regular basis.

As long as you don't have a go yourself , don't use easyouts as I can pretty much guarantee they will snap , and then it's got harder and more expensive to fix !

We charge £30 to repair a lug thread , we machine them out and fit a steel helicoil , so no more issues with dissimilar metals corrosion between the alloy threads and steel bolts , if you want all the lugs on the caliper set done , we can do the front OR rears only for £80 , or the complete car set done for £150.

Bleed nipple repairs are more expensive , as we need to strip the caliper in half to fit to our jig , remove all the pistons and seals to machine , fit a steel helicoil , clean out the caliper , chemically clean the seals , polish the pistons and rebuild inc new nipples , so it's £50 for one thread , £80 to do both nipples , £150 to do a pair of calipers ( 4 threads ) at the time it would be advisable to fit new seals for peace of mind , but if all are good not necessary .

Cheers Ian
Old 15 January 2018, 10:59 AM
  #19  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I said that ( sounds suspiciously like he didn’t use the access thru backplate / it’s the only way the shoe would bind to the drum .. once I release the tensioner I tap around with a rubber mallet . Disk just pulls off with no effort
Old 15 January 2018, 12:24 PM
  #20  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
I said that ( sounds suspiciously like he didn’t use the access thru backplate / it’s the only way the shoe would bind to the drum .. once I release the tensioner I tap around with a rubber mallet . Disk just pulls off with no effort
Guys thanks for all of your help and advice but believe me when I say I did everything you speak of. I slackened off the handbrake shoes first by removing the rubber bung at the rear of the back plate and moved the small cog wheel to release the shoe. The issue must have been elsewhere. I gave it more than a tap with a mallet to loosen the disc, as the rust was the problem the first time round when the handbrake issue cropped up the first time over, and yes it works fine for removing the build up of rust but not for a handbrake shoe issue.

The way I see it I wasn't able to slacken the handbrake enough to clear the inner lip and the shoes got stuck. TBH the old discs were in pretty bad shape, could well be the originals fitted to the car from way back when as hard to believe as that may be. The handbrake has always been an issue and I seeked help with that on the forum back in the summer hence I know how to do it this time round. That's what made me believe it'd be easier doing the rears

Ian, you are right with the penny size quarter turn washers, they needed reshaping and re fitting but it was all reassembled and checked and all is fine now after a little adjustment of the handbrake cog to get the bite just right.

I've now bought some proper seized bolt stuff to help release the front caliper bolts. I'll give them a good soak and see if it makes a difference before potentially having to book it into a garage.

I really appreciate every ones help with this. My posts are sometime long winded but I try to explain as best as I can so if someone else has the same issue in future some info may be of use.

I'll update on the fronts when I get the chance to have a go but unfortunately that may not be for another few weeks. Binny
Old 15 January 2018, 12:35 PM
  #21  
Jon T
Scooby Regular
 
Jon T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North wales
Posts: 630
Received 20 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

What seized bolt stuff did you buy ?
Old 15 January 2018, 12:42 PM
  #22  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

This stuff. It was suggested by the guys in the car parts shop I work next to. Apparently the people in the trade swear by it. I guess we’ll wait and see...
Old 15 January 2018, 01:32 PM
  #23  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You would be better off with this / but as I say the bolts turn ferrous, So most likely they will snap
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
Old 15 January 2018, 01:52 PM
  #24  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
You would be better off with this / but as I say the bolts turn ferrous, So most likely they will snap
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
Thanks for the link. From what you say you've clearly had experience. Would I be right in thinking that the only way to deal with a snapped bolt is to drill them out and re thread the hole?

If they're are more likely to snap how does everyone else deal with the issue?

Finally if taken to a garage would they be able to do anything I couldn't that would prevent them snapping, like heating them up etc?
Old 15 January 2018, 02:09 PM
  #25  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I’m in the Truck business & Wurth products are all we have ever used / machining & Hellicoil is the way forward if they snap ( Ian can help you there ..
No a garage will do just as you
That plus gas won’t cut it / it might free 1 or 2 but if all 4 you need a good cracking agent /
Old 16 January 2018, 05:13 PM
  #26  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

That stuff didn’t cut it. Gave it a good soaking left for a while, resprayed it again etc, still nothing. Will be booking it into a garage for the week after next having lost the battle 😔
Old 16 January 2018, 06:19 PM
  #27  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Told you it wouldn’t
Garage will almost certainly snap 1 or 2
For the cost , I think you should try the rost of ice , it freezes the thread cracking the rust & creaps along , its good stuff . Yours may be 2 far gone , still , if you give them to Ian he will machine them & get them up & running again . In future a light coat of white temp marine grease on the thread works wonders ( stuff they use on boat engines ) & slacken & re do twice a year keeps them tip top & able to remove anytime without hastle.

Regards
Old 16 January 2018, 06:22 PM
  #28  
jazzyjembreaze
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
jazzyjembreaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Incidentally, how far have you moved them ?
If any
Old 16 January 2018, 06:46 PM
  #29  
Wull
Scooby Regular
 
Wull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Killin
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I've shat out and booked it in with my mate at his garage

These discs are going on temporarily until the ap's and 2pc discs arrive as the current discs are toast, and it's getting live mapped shortly.

I'll then stick those discs on the wife's wagon along with the Brembos.
Old 16 January 2018, 07:05 PM
  #30  
Binny
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
 
Binny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Rushden, Northants
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
Incidentally, how far have you moved them ?
If any
I only tried the drivers side front and moved a combined total of... NOTHING!!!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
*Sonic*
General Technical
18
17 January 2004 11:12 PM
nellie
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
25
16 October 2003 11:29 AM
NickAdams
Member's Gallery
9
01 August 2003 03:24 PM
blue-scoop
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
2
10 June 2003 08:57 PM



Quick Reply: DBA Discs



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:24 PM.