DBA Discs
#1
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Thread Starter
DBA Discs
Morning guys.
I’m about to buy new brakes for my 03 JDM STI Blob and seeked advice from Alyn at AS Performance where I buy all my parts. Alyn was as helpful as ever and for my needs (daily and fast road driving only) suggested DBA discs. TBH he’s such a helpful guy and clearly knows his stuff I feel I should just bite the bullet and get what he suggests but in this case I’ve never heard of DBA before and I’ve spent a long time researching various options prior to the phone call.
Since speaking to Alyn searching this forum doesn’t bring much up, it seems they aren’t popular. Most searches are from a decade ago and some of which suggest cracking problems with the drilled discs, the ones I’ve been suggested to buy are plain faced.
Whats peoples thoughts? Any good? My main concern isn’t the advice from Alyn or the quality, it’s fhe price - discs only for all ; corners are going to cost £420! Is it worth it? I’m a firm believer of paying for what you get but that’s a lot for discs alone.
For pads to suit Alyn suggested either PFC Z rated or better still for mainly daily driving and refinement the Brembo Sport Max.
What do people think on any of the above or alternative suggestions. I’m happy to spend the money if it’s worth it but I can’t help feel for the driving I do is nearly £700 on a brake set up worth it?
Thanks. Binny
I’m about to buy new brakes for my 03 JDM STI Blob and seeked advice from Alyn at AS Performance where I buy all my parts. Alyn was as helpful as ever and for my needs (daily and fast road driving only) suggested DBA discs. TBH he’s such a helpful guy and clearly knows his stuff I feel I should just bite the bullet and get what he suggests but in this case I’ve never heard of DBA before and I’ve spent a long time researching various options prior to the phone call.
Since speaking to Alyn searching this forum doesn’t bring much up, it seems they aren’t popular. Most searches are from a decade ago and some of which suggest cracking problems with the drilled discs, the ones I’ve been suggested to buy are plain faced.
Whats peoples thoughts? Any good? My main concern isn’t the advice from Alyn or the quality, it’s fhe price - discs only for all ; corners are going to cost £420! Is it worth it? I’m a firm believer of paying for what you get but that’s a lot for discs alone.
For pads to suit Alyn suggested either PFC Z rated or better still for mainly daily driving and refinement the Brembo Sport Max.
What do people think on any of the above or alternative suggestions. I’m happy to spend the money if it’s worth it but I can’t help feel for the driving I do is nearly £700 on a brake set up worth it?
Thanks. Binny
#4
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input everyone. In the grand scheme of things spending the extra for the quality is always worth it so I’ve ordered the DBA discs and Brembo sport pads from Alyn.Thanks again.Binny
Last edited by Binny; 14 January 2018 at 05:41 PM.
#7
Ian
Will the £640 package 2 peice discs fit AP7040 calipers ?
Thanks
Will the £640 package 2 peice discs fit AP7040 calipers ?
Thanks
Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
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#8
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Thread Starter
So today was a disaster. Finally had the time to fit the brakes, well the rears at least. From start to finish the whole bloody job was a ball ache.
Started at the front as they were reason for replacing the brakes in the first place. Soaked the 2x caliper bolts with WD40 to start with, left them a while but could have left it all day and it probably still wouldn’t have made a difference. I could not shift either bolts. In the end I gave up leaving them to soak some more and moved onto the other front, this time only to access the bolts to WD40 them before leaving to soak to move onto the rears.I was confident the rears would be an easy job as I’ve had them off recently (in the summer) to sort a squeaking hand brake issue. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Got the top bolt off but the bottom came out some way and tighten. I lubed it up, drove it back in and out a little at a time to work the fluid until yep, you guessed it the bolt snapped. I then spent all morning drilling the snapped bolt out, then over to screwfix for a tap and dye set, before finally sorting the issue.I thought that was the end of the problem. Once again, NOPE!! This time the I couldn’t get the old disc off. I’ve used the drive in a bolt into the holes in the disc technique but it was well there. I had this issue the first time I took the disc off but it was just rust. This time it felt different. I managed to work it forward a little and a small spring fell out from the back plate. It was one of the springs that held the hand brake shoe on. The issue was now the handbrake was able to move, piveting from the centre it was catching on the rusty inside lip of the old disc. FFS!!! I even resulted in putting everything back together to go for a drive to the end of the road and back gently applying the handbrake to maybe loosen it but that was a waste of time. Long story short I eventually got it off, refurbed the handbrake and was able to finally fit the new disc. Ironically it took me only 5 mins to put it all back together, just 7 hours to get to this point!!! Thankfully the other side came off fine.Not only was I knackered, frustrated and fed up but it was almost dark so I couldn’t go back to the fronts to see if the WD40 had made any difference at all to the seized bolts. Tbh I cannot be doing with another snapped bolt so I may end up paying a garage to do the fronts, at least they’ll have some heat to help the bolts loose. I may give it a little go but any resistance and it’s tighten it up and left well alone. Annoyingly the front discs you could flick off, it’s just thoughs 2x caliper bolts turning a simple 10 min job into a job from hell.
Last edited by Binny; 14 January 2018 at 06:09 PM.
#11
Scooby Regular
I feel for you man. Had the same thing. Had brake judder when i first had the car went to change the front disks and pads and both the threads in the offside caliper pulled out . Off to screw fix for a helecoil kit managed to do it without taking it off the car. Changed the pads both sides ( wasnt going to chance the other side )and luckily it was crap pads. This summer its going to my local subaru specialist havin all the calipers taken off and sent to godspeed. I not goin anywhere near them after that nightmare of a day
Last edited by Jon T; 14 January 2018 at 07:11 PM.
#12
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Hi
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
To give you another option , we can offer you our Front and rear G hook grooved discs AND PF Z rated pads for £440 all in , the DBA discs are good , and have a good reputation as do ours , and for peace of mind we also offer a 12 month guarantee against discs warping even if you take to the track .
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...ated-pads.html
And for £640 we can offer the same package deal but with our 2 piece front discs .
P&P is £15
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
#13
So today was a disaster. Finally had the time to fit the brakes, well the rears at least. From start to finish the whole bloody job was a ball ache.
Started at the front as they were reason for replacing the brakes in the first place. Soaked the 2x caliper bolts with WD40 to start with, left them a while but could have left it all day and it probably still wouldn’t have made a difference. I could not shift either bolts. In the end I gave up leaving them to soak some more and moved onto the other front, this time only to access the bolts to WD40 them before leaving to soak to move onto the rears.I was confident the rears would be an easy job as I’ve had them off recently (in the summer) to sort a squeaking hand brake issue. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Got the top bolt off but the bottom came out some way and tighten. I lubed it up, drove it back in and out a little at a time to work the fluid until yep, you guessed it the bolt snapped. I then spent all morning drilling the snapped bolt out, then over to screwfix for a tap and dye set, before finally sorting the issue.I thought that was the end of the problem. Once again, NOPE!! This time the I couldn’t get the old disc off. I’ve used the drive in a bolt into the holes in the disc technique but it was well there. I had this issue the first time I took the disc off but it was just rust. This time it felt different. I managed to work it forward a little and a small spring fell out from the back plate. It was one of the springs that held the hand brake shoe on. The issue was now the handbrake was able to move, piveting from the centre it was catching on the rusty inside lip of the old disc. FFS!!! I even resulted in putting everything back together to go for a drive to the end of the road and back gently applying the handbrake to maybe loosen it but that was a waste of time. Long story short I eventually got it off, refurbed the handbrake and was able to finally fit the new disc. Ironically it took me only 5 mins to put it all back together, just 7 hours to get to this point!!! Thankfully the other side came off fine.Not only was I knackered, frustrated and fed up but it was almost dark so I couldn’t go back to the fronts to see if the WD40 had made any difference at all to the seized bolts. Tbh I cannot be doing with another snapped bolt so I may end up paying a garage to do the fronts, at least they’ll have some heat to help the bolts loose. I may give it a little go but any resistance and it’s tighten it up and left well alone. Annoyingly the front discs you could flick off, it’s just thoughs 2x caliper bolts turning a simple 10 min job into a job from hell.
And that’s why I’m not looking forward to doing mine this week coming, the bolts look proper rusty
I’ll see how it goes but the first hint of “fookin ell” I’m taking the motor to my mates garage.
#14
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Your supposed to let the handbrake shoes off via the access hole on rear plate , small screwdriver wind in/out
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
#15
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Thread Starter
Your supposed to let the handbrake shoes off via the access hole on rear plate , small screwdriver wind in/out
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
Back to your fronts , they will most prob snap now , they are ferrous to the caliper wich is why they seize up / your right in by winding in & out but they def are a bitch & usually they give up at the head . Fingers x & good luck
Mate, did that already. The moment the disc wouldn’t budge loosening the handbreak cable was the first thing I did. Annoyingly as said before I’ve done all this previously when I had handbrake issues so I’ve experience taking the rears off and none of this happened last time.On a plus note I normally get initial binding from my handbrake first time I use the car of a day but this morning it was perfect. Maybe the discs were the problem and the build up of rust internally was the cause. They looked in good nick previously but the binding has now gone. Happy days.
#16
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/pac...rack-pack.html
Cheers Ian
#17
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
Mate, did that already. The moment the disc wouldn’t budge loosening the handbreak cable was the first thing I did. Annoyingly as said before I’ve done all this previously when I had handbrake issues so I’ve experience taking the rears off and none of this happened last time.On a plus note I normally get initial binding from my handbrake first time I use the car of a day but this morning it was perfect. Maybe the discs were the problem and the build up of rust internally was the cause. They looked in good nick previously but the binding has now gone. Happy days.
Still sounded like the handbrake shoes needed loosening off , loosening the cable wouldn't do it , as the adjuster between the 2 shoes would still hold the shoes apart enough to not get the disc off.
On the backplate there is a rubber grommet , remove that and slacken off the adjuster , it will slacken the shoes enough for the disc to fall off.
That's why it pulled the spring off , as you're pulling the disc off , it's pulling the shoes off , probably bent that round disc that quarter turns onto the pin holding the shoes in place , if so they are easy to bend back into shape and re-use.
When fitting it all back on , you need to tighten up the shoe adjusters through the backplate until you feel a little binding , then slacken off slightly , and then adjust the handbrake cable , quite a few have ignored the shoe adjuster and just done it on the cable , which is the wrong way of doing it.
The only other time the disc wont come off , is if it's rusted onto the drive flange , and shock hit with a mallet ' breaks the seal ' and it will come off then , as long as the shoes are loose enough .
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
Last edited by Godspeed Brakes; 15 January 2018 at 09:11 AM.
#18
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
Just to add , if anyone has issues with threads , either bleed nipple snapping , or lug threads , we are set up to fix these , and do so on a regular basis.
As long as you don't have a go yourself , don't use easyouts as I can pretty much guarantee they will snap , and then it's got harder and more expensive to fix !
We charge £30 to repair a lug thread , we machine them out and fit a steel helicoil , so no more issues with dissimilar metals corrosion between the alloy threads and steel bolts , if you want all the lugs on the caliper set done , we can do the front OR rears only for £80 , or the complete car set done for £150.
Bleed nipple repairs are more expensive , as we need to strip the caliper in half to fit to our jig , remove all the pistons and seals to machine , fit a steel helicoil , clean out the caliper , chemically clean the seals , polish the pistons and rebuild inc new nipples , so it's £50 for one thread , £80 to do both nipples , £150 to do a pair of calipers ( 4 threads ) at the time it would be advisable to fit new seals for peace of mind , but if all are good not necessary .
Cheers Ian
As long as you don't have a go yourself , don't use easyouts as I can pretty much guarantee they will snap , and then it's got harder and more expensive to fix !
We charge £30 to repair a lug thread , we machine them out and fit a steel helicoil , so no more issues with dissimilar metals corrosion between the alloy threads and steel bolts , if you want all the lugs on the caliper set done , we can do the front OR rears only for £80 , or the complete car set done for £150.
Bleed nipple repairs are more expensive , as we need to strip the caliper in half to fit to our jig , remove all the pistons and seals to machine , fit a steel helicoil , clean out the caliper , chemically clean the seals , polish the pistons and rebuild inc new nipples , so it's £50 for one thread , £80 to do both nipples , £150 to do a pair of calipers ( 4 threads ) at the time it would be advisable to fit new seals for peace of mind , but if all are good not necessary .
Cheers Ian
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I said that ( sounds suspiciously like he didn’t use the access thru backplate / it’s the only way the shoe would bind to the drum .. once I release the tensioner I tap around with a rubber mallet . Disk just pulls off with no effort
#20
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The way I see it I wasn't able to slacken the handbrake enough to clear the inner lip and the shoes got stuck. TBH the old discs were in pretty bad shape, could well be the originals fitted to the car from way back when as hard to believe as that may be. The handbrake has always been an issue and I seeked help with that on the forum back in the summer hence I know how to do it this time round. That's what made me believe it'd be easier doing the rears
Ian, you are right with the penny size quarter turn washers, they needed reshaping and re fitting but it was all reassembled and checked and all is fine now after a little adjustment of the handbrake cog to get the bite just right.
I've now bought some proper seized bolt stuff to help release the front caliper bolts. I'll give them a good soak and see if it makes a difference before potentially having to book it into a garage.
I really appreciate every ones help with this. My posts are sometime long winded but I try to explain as best as I can so if someone else has the same issue in future some info may be of use.
I'll update on the fronts when I get the chance to have a go but unfortunately that may not be for another few weeks. Binny
#22
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This stuff. It was suggested by the guys in the car parts shop I work next to. Apparently the people in the trade swear by it. I guess we’ll wait and see...
#23
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You would be better off with this / but as I say the bolts turn ferrous, So most likely they will snap
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
#24
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You would be better off with this / but as I say the bolts turn ferrous, So most likely they will snap
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263429056426
If they're are more likely to snap how does everyone else deal with the issue?
Finally if taken to a garage would they be able to do anything I couldn't that would prevent them snapping, like heating them up etc?
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I’m in the Truck business & Wurth products are all we have ever used / machining & Hellicoil is the way forward if they snap ( Ian can help you there ..
No a garage will do just as you
That plus gas won’t cut it / it might free 1 or 2 but if all 4 you need a good cracking agent /
No a garage will do just as you
That plus gas won’t cut it / it might free 1 or 2 but if all 4 you need a good cracking agent /
#26
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That stuff didn’t cut it. Gave it a good soaking left for a while, resprayed it again etc, still nothing. Will be booking it into a garage for the week after next having lost the battle 😔
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Told you it wouldn’t
Garage will almost certainly snap 1 or 2
For the cost , I think you should try the rost of ice , it freezes the thread cracking the rust & creaps along , its good stuff . Yours may be 2 far gone , still , if you give them to Ian he will machine them & get them up & running again . In future a light coat of white temp marine grease on the thread works wonders ( stuff they use on boat engines ) & slacken & re do twice a year keeps them tip top & able to remove anytime without hastle.
Regards
Garage will almost certainly snap 1 or 2
For the cost , I think you should try the rost of ice , it freezes the thread cracking the rust & creaps along , its good stuff . Yours may be 2 far gone , still , if you give them to Ian he will machine them & get them up & running again . In future a light coat of white temp marine grease on the thread works wonders ( stuff they use on boat engines ) & slacken & re do twice a year keeps them tip top & able to remove anytime without hastle.
Regards
#29
I've shat out and booked it in with my mate at his garage
These discs are going on temporarily until the ap's and 2pc discs arrive as the current discs are toast, and it's getting live mapped shortly.
I'll then stick those discs on the wife's wagon along with the Brembos.
These discs are going on temporarily until the ap's and 2pc discs arrive as the current discs are toast, and it's getting live mapped shortly.
I'll then stick those discs on the wife's wagon along with the Brembos.
#30
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