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If any more get made i will post up another add , he has said he will make more but has no date on when he will be able to do them ,, anyone interested post on this thread so I can find you if more turn up
If any more get made i will post up another add , he has said he will make more but has no date on when he will be able to do them ,, anyone interested post on this thread so I can find you if more turn up
Don't think so but I would need to ask , seen one on a hawk he sold a few months back but not 100% if it was still wide track or if it had been swapped out so couldn't guarantee anything without asking first
Don't think so but I would need to ask , seen one on a hawk he sold a few months back but not 100% if it was still wide track or if it had been swapped out so couldn't guarantee anything without asking first
From: oop north in a spec-c.Now sold and starting on a classic ra track/sprint/road car
Originally Posted by tom-r33
I'm looking for one of these and maybe a front too. Can you tell me is the rear diff sits higher or is standard height?
cheers
Tom I would say the diff sits at standard height well mine does on my tubular subframe or else you would need to modify the tunnel and pick up points for the diff you would have to do away with the t bar the way they are adjustable is through the rear arms you can lift them up via the 2 bolt holes dependant on how you have the rear coilovers lowered so the arms dont fold up for the rear driveshafts under hard acceleration if you know what I mean
Tom I would say the diff sits at standard height well mine does on my tubular subframe or else you would need to modify the tunnel and pick up points for the diff you would have to do away with the t bar the way they are adjustable is through the rear arms you can lift them up via the 2 bolt holes dependant on how you have the rear coilovers lowered so the arms dont fold up for the rear driveshafts under hard acceleration if you know what I mean
They sit at standard hight.. you can get rear ones that sit 40mm higher but you will need to build a tunnel in the floor. Not to much of a difficult job but from what I've been told it transforms the cars handling.
I am hoping to get standard hight ones for my wide track when I get some money at a later date
Lot of people seem to want these. Out of curiosity, can I ask why? Not asking in a controversial way, just curious as products like this are aimed mainly at the competition market
Kudos point, bling points or whatever else you want to call it. I had the SDM solid mounted gearbox cradle on mine simply for the fact it transmitted more gearbox sound and sounded like a race car lol
Lot of people seem to want these. Out of curiosity, can I ask why? Not asking in a controversial way, just curious as products like this are aimed mainly at the competition market
If you know what your talking about its nothing to do with looks that just happens to be a nice by product. The OEM subframes suffer from flex under severe track conditions, especially the rear, there are braces that you can buy to help this but they are a sticking plaster. The tubular ones are lighter yet stronger, depending on spec they can be made to accommodate geometry changes which can make significant changes to the handling. As an example my SD Motorsports gearbox cradle is half the weight of the OEM gearbox cradle and again helps with stability to a degree as it works in tandem with solid engine mounts. If you fit a rigid gearbox cradle with average engine mounts the gearbox can't move but it is connected to the engine which can move on the mounts not the best scenario for serious use.
They sit at standard hight.. you can get rear ones that sit 40mm higher but you will need to build a tunnel in the floor. Not to much of a difficult job but from what I've been told it transforms the cars handling.
I am hoping to get standard hight ones for my wide track when I get some money at a later date
Ryan
they pickup points for the rear arms sit higher to realign the geometry when lowering. Lowering has the knock on effect of putting the shafts at angles, ideally the would be straight, so to sort that you really want to lift the doff too. The knock on effect is as you described, you need to mod the chassis by creating a higher tunnel for the prop, if using a one piece prop it's even worse as you loose the central joint in the prop which means a higher tunnel again. The knock on effect of modifying the tunnel is (I think I'm not 100% as haven't done it yet) the cage picks up on that part of the chassis/tunnel, so cage needs adjusting to suit......
my rear diff&guard took such a beating on the stages it would be nice to get it up out the way too
Tubular rear subframe
