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Oh ok that's good to know! What is it mate ? I've never heard of that! Basically there's a bit of water inside the unit which has caused moss to grow on the outside of it
Outside meaning around the rim but inside the unit
Yes mate around the edge, but inside, impossible to clean. Yes the red or smoked tail light overlays will cover that so it isn't noticeable. Well worth 30 quid because it also hides the chavy Lexus style side lights!
Bang and your paint work is gone Just be really careful with it.
Take all the lights out mate. The rear lights can be removed by first removing the internal trim. Start by prying at the top plastic piece (Closest to the roof). They're on poppers.
Once you get to the large piece that covers the lights you'll see underneath a couple of 12mm (Might be wrong) bolts.
Yeah ugly there would be poppers involved! Was thinking about getting new ones but this way sounds good and cheaper! Just worried about whether I should re seal them or not
Anyone else running a UK Hatch with a newage 2.0STi and SYVECS conversion?
Thought I saw at least one post, but can't seem to find it now in the 500+ pages
The "clean the rear lights and fit overlays" is on my to-do list too
I've got most of it out by spraying degreaser and citrus pre-cleanser down the gap and directing jet-wash in there ;-)
Dipping for oil ?
I've been checking regularly since i got my hatch as ive heard they burn oil and it's always been above "F". I was worried the dealer had overfilled to cover the fact it burned oil but it hasn't moved so ruled that out and just been keeping an eye on it . Until Saturday that is. Now it's just above "E" so appears to have emptied in the 30 miles since a McRae memorial run last weekend (i dipped after it as it was big miles and it was still "full") Cant work it out at all , dipped it a few times on Sat and on the marked side its "E" but the other side it's "F". All the other times I've dipped it's always "f" or above on the stamped side but now it's different
How do you guys dip for oil ? I have been waiting till the next day after driving to dip , pull stick out , wipe , back in , pull out and read. Repeat x1.
Dipping for oil ?
I've been checking regularly since i got my hatch as ive heard they burn oil and it's always been above "F". I was worried the dealer had overfilled to cover the fact it burned oil but it hasn't moved so ruled that out and just been keeping an eye on it . Until Saturday that is. Now it's just above "E" so appears to have emptied in the 30 miles since a McRae memorial run last weekend (i dipped after it as it was big miles and it was still "full") Cant work it out at all , dipped it a few times on Sat and on the marked side its "E" but the other side it's "F". All the other times I've dipped it's always "f" or above on the stamped side but now it's different ��
How do you guys dip for oil ? I have been waiting till the next day after driving to dip , pull stick out , wipe , back in , pull out and read. Repeat x1.
Warm check (but give it time to settle after driving about 15-20 mins). Pull dip stick out, clean it, but wait about 2 mins before reinserting (to avoid the capillary effect where fluids are sucked up a narrow tube). The two sides of the dip stick are always different work off the lowest.
Last edited by Benji554; 25 April 2016 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Warm check (but give it time to settle after driving about 15-20 mins). Pull dip stick out, clean it, but wait about 2 mins before reinserting (to avoid the capillary effect where fluids are sucked up a narrow tube). The two sides of the dip stick are always different work off the lowest.
Anyone else running a UK Hatch with a newage 2.0STi and SYVECS conversion?
Thought I saw at least one post, but can't seem to find it now in the 500+ pages
The "clean the rear lights and fit overlays" is on my to-do list too
I've got most of it out by spraying degreaser and citrus pre-cleanser down the gap and directing jet-wash in there ;-)
Why would you want to run a 2.0 ? With the cost to do that sort of conversion you may aswell just have a proper 2.5 built ?
Plus you lose A few of the standard features going to syvecs plus iv heard of people having alarm issues once they have it fitted
Last edited by domino46; 26 April 2016 at 06:48 AM.
Was getting annoyed with my reverse lockout rattling all the time and didn't like the white sti duracon **** so swapped them out for the raceseng ashiko **** and reverse lockout lever. Gear changes are much more positive with the weighted **** and no more rattle!! Bliss
Little update on my car, most things done last year and just got the wheels fitted.
Hopefully give people ideas if like myself you like to do a bit of research before buying!
*H&R springs
*Whiteline 20mm rear anti roll bar with braces
*Poly bushes on front ARB
*Whiteline steering rack bushes (for £50 these are well worth doing and pretty easy to fit. Most noticeable on long fast bends when the steering used to feel very vague and wooly.
*Stoptech front and rear grooved brake discs and fluid swapped out to ATE super blue (I can't believe how this transformed the brakes. Pedal feel is awesome and brakes really progressive and that's with standard pads currently. Was worried about grooves being noisey but you really can't hear them unless you have to brake really hard)
*Magnaflow exhaust which is now 1.5 years old but hasn't got any louder. Doesn't really drone considering it has no centre resonator. I did put deadening on the boot floor and some closed cell foam which removed a bit of boom from the boot that you get without a proper parcel shelf. It sounds awesome on full chat. Not over the top just right.
*Genuine Subaru wind/rain deflectors. Love the look of these, I think the chunkiness really suits the rest of the car.
* trimmed and plastidipped the mud flaps as they were catching speed bumps at work! They are original Subaru flaps I believe and quite stiff.
*XXR 527 wheels, flat bronze 18x8.75 +35 which is the highest offset they do in the 527. I think they fit the arches well though. wrapped in Vredestein vorti 235/40/18 (need to fit the centre cap logos. Might get STI logos like the old wheels)
Couldn't find many pictures of those wheels on a hatch so was a bit of a gamble but I'm really happy with them and they have a nice mild concave if you see them from an angle.
Started snowing just after fitting the wheels so no decent pictures yet. The car needs a good polish as well.
Last edited by FrozenFlame; 26 April 2016 at 09:15 PM.
side skirts are a pain to fit as even using a ramp at the MOT garage I still struggled getting my drill under the sides to drill the hole for the fitting plastic push screw.
you could do with a four wheel lift ramp that allows easier access to the side skirt area.
apart from that they go on easy.. line up and fit.
Little update on my car, most things done last year and just got the wheels fitted.
Hopefully give people ideas if like myself you like to do a bit of research before buying!
*H&R springs
*Whiteline 20mm rear anti roll bar with braces
*Poly bushes on front ARB
*Whiteline steering rack bushes (for £50 these are well worth doing and pretty easy to fit. Most noticeable on long fast bends when the steering used to feel very vague and wooly.
*Stoptech front and rear grooved brake discs and fluid swapped out to ATE super blue (I can't believe how this transformed the brakes. Pedal feel is awesome and brakes really progressive and that's with standard pads currently. Was worried about grooves being noisey but you really can't hear them unless you have to brake really hard)
*Magnaflow exhaust which is now 1.5 years old but hasn't got any louder. Doesn't really drone considering it has no centre resonator. I did put deadening on the boot floor and some closed cell foam which removed a bit of boom from the boot that you get without a proper parcel shelf. It sounds awesome on full chat. Not over the top just right.
*Genuine Subaru wind/rain deflectors. Love the look of these, I think the chunkiness really suits the rest of the car.
* trimmed and plastidipped the mud flaps as they were catching speed bumps at work! They are original Subaru flaps I believe and quite stiff.
*XXR 527 wheels, flat bronze 18x8.75 +35 which is the highest offset they do in the 527. I think they fit the arches well though. wrapped in Vredestein vorti 235/40/18 (need to fit the centre cap logos. Might get STI logos like the old wheels)
Couldn't find many pictures of those wheels on a hatch so was a bit of a gamble but I'm really happy with them and they have a nice mild concave if you see them from an angle.
Started snowing just after fitting the wheels so no decent pictures yet. The car needs a good polish as well.
Wheels and offset look great! Did you have to go down to 235 for clearance in the arch as opposed to the more standard 245?
Black wheels look really smart. How easy were the skirts and rear spats to fit? I presume they are ht autos?
Thanks, though need some spacers now They are easy to fit as long as you can get the car high enough to get the drill under and I would recommend having someone to help you make sure they are straight. I parked one side of the car up on a raised kerb and then jacked up the other side (Front then rear separately) to get the clearance.
Cheers guys, very tempted by them. Are they just black push clip fittings like the standard subaru ones?
Regarding tyres, yep had to gamble on the 235 just to get a bit more clearance. Been fine so far but would worry if the car was fully loaded. I may get a slight roll on the rear arches just to be safe. Don't need to be flat but just take the sharp edge up a bit. To be fair 245s may have been fine as well but perhaps risky with the car lowered.
Think someone asked about yokohama AD08's further back. I had them on my car when I bought it. Seemed like a really good tyre. Good turn in bite and amazing in the dry, they were even ok in the snow. Went for the vreds now just becuase I couldnt justify £150ish each for the ad08s and the vreds get really good reviews.
Last edited by FrozenFlame; 27 April 2016 at 08:43 AM.