Hi,

I have a MY00 wagon with the standard alarm system (Sigma I believe) and over the past week or so I have an intermittent problem with the alarm.

First off the fob would not work, arm or dis-arm. Kept trying it (about 20 odd times) then it just worked. So thought it was battery. Then before I got the chance to change the battery the wife took the car out and the same thing happened when she went to the car after some shopping.

I went and got the spare fob from the house, in the meantime the wife got the battery changed, but this didn't work either (the guy checked the old battery and said there was nothing wrong with it). When i got there the spare fob didn't work either. So I happened to pop the bonnet to see it there was anything obvious, noticed a switch liked to the system which I presume detects when the bonnet is up. Pushed this up and down a few times and then tried the fob and it worked first time.

So I clean up the switch and sprayed some WD-40 all over it and it has worked since........ Until today. So popped the bonnet, pushed the switch down a couple of times and it worked fine.

So is this a common fault? Is it the bonnet switch? If so how much to replace and do I need to disconnect anything?

Thanks in advance for the reply's

Scott

 

The early bonnet switch fitted to pre 2001 Imprezas (mounted on the siren bracket on the inner wing) can be susceptable to corrosion, due to it's exposed location, but this is simply a trigger input and cannot, in any way, prevent the alarm from arming and disarming as you describe.
This is just a red herring I'm afraid.
As long as the switch contacts and earth are cleaned up, and the siren bleeps repeatedly if the system is armed with the bonnet open, then the switch is working fine.
In extreme cases if the switch is beyond cleaning-up, then a replacement is available under the part number SACC 3472 from your Subaru dealer for around £3.50 - no special measures are need to install, just unscrew and replace.

From your description of the problem and the age of the vehicle (pre-2001), I suspect that the cause of your problem is "Radio Lock-out".

Although posted before, it's probably worth posting again for anyone new to the forum and for the benefit of anyone else who may suffer from this.....

Radio Lock Out:
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing fees!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key.
This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.

The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards that may have experienced this problem, are not faulty and were not considered eligible for warranty.
However, as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board whilst the vehicle was still within the warranty period.
This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004.
The later ECUs are available from Subaru, but these are now chargeable (part number SACC 3465 and will be IRO £70). If the problem only occurs occasionally then getting to grips with the PIN overide is your most cost effective option, but if it is a regular occurance then the the convenience may be worth the £70.

Avoidance:
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.
- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.
- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.

Keypad Use:
- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attempts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.
- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.

If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be aborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

Summary:
My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual and practice entering the PIN before you need it. If you do not know your PIN, or bought the car second hand (in which case the PIN may have been changed by the previous owner) you can change the PIN to one of your own choosing, using the keypad, provided that you have a working Radio Key.

Changing your PIN:
- Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key.
- Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad: *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code)
- Arm the system with the Radio Key
- You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code

Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!
If this is an intermitent problem, use of the keypad should overcome the problem. However, if the problem is more frequent it may be worth considering a new control unit - An SACC 3465 should cost in the region of £70 from a Subaru dealer and your existing keys can still be used.
Although installation may take around 30 minutes, do not pay over the odds for programming the system, as this can be done in 5 minutes using the keypad.

Sorry that this is a repeat of a long-winded post, but I hope that it answers the questions raised and will keep everyone mobile.


SS

 

Great stuff Sam, and very informative. I have a MY00 and also suffer this problem on occasion, but use the keypad to override it! Thanks.

 

Sam,

Thanks for the info. The only issue I have is that the car was registered as a 51 plate (last of the classics) so there may be a chance that it was fitted with the latest board given it was registered after August 2001. I suppose it depends on when it was imported into the country. Is there anyway of identifying which board I have?

Thanks again.

Scott

 

Hi Scott,
We only started fitting the later units to vehicles at the import centre from January 2001. At this time all vehicles coming through the import centre had been the "blob eye" shape for some months, so unfortunately, despite your late date of registration, all "classic" shape models will have been imported and passed through the import centre prior to January 2001 and will have the earlier unit fitted.

SS

 

Hi again,

Thanks for the information you have already posted. Evertything has been OK with the alarm since my original post............until today!!!

I tried the over ride with the keypad, but the car still won't start and is stuck in my works car park.

I arrived at work with no problems went to lock the car using the fob and nothing happened. So just locked the car with the key and was prepared to use the keypad to over ride the system. Went to take the car out at lunch, but had to put stuff in the boot. So sequence of events went as follows;

1) Opened the passangers door with the key, opened the glove box and type in my 4 digit number into the keypad. I was carefull and ensured the red light flashed briefly before I went to the next number. Everything was ok. As far as I was concerened the alarm was de-activated.

2) Unlocked the drivers door to unlock the boot. Put the stuff in the boot and went to start the car.

3) Nothing happened when I turned the ignition. All the lights and heater came on as per normal, but the car would not turn over. Exactly like if you don't start the car within 45 seconds the immobiliser kicks back on.

4) Tried turning the ingnition on and then re-typing the 4 digits on the keypad as it states on the manual, but no joy.

Normally, if say I was cleaning the car inside and then wanted to start it you have to turn the ignition on and then press the keyfob before turning the car over.

Have I locked the keypad? I don't think I have as the alarm did de-activate when I entered the numbers the first time. How do you check if the keypad is locked and how do I unlock the keypad?

Should I of started it before I put the stuff in the boot i.e. within 45 seconds of putting the 4 digit number in the keypad.

Any comments greatly appreciated.

 

Sorry for the delay replying... for obvious reasons!

A coulpe of things to check if not too late:
In your description above, at point 1, entering the PIN with the alarm disarmed should have actually armed the alarm at this point. You would need to enter the PIN a second time to disarm the alarm and immobiliser.
At point 4 the PIN should only be entered with the ignition off.

SS

 

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the reply. You're right, entering the pin the first time would of armed the car.......I'm a dumb ***! I did try entering the pin a few times but I must of got mixed up from the start.

Any way the car was recovered to my local garage that evening. I was going to leave it there overnight and get the garage to look at it. When the car came off the back of the truck I locked it with the key only, but I though I would give the key fob one last try, and guess what it worked ok. So radio lock out at my work then.

I have decided just to get the problem sorted as you suggest with the replacement reciever board. I asked the local garage who stated that it is a cover they fit and you need to remove the dash to get at it so quite an expensive job. Is ths true? From your original reply it seems to me the garage is making it out to be more.

Has any one else had hte replacement reciver fitted in central Scotland? If so who and how much?

Cheers,

Scott

 

Mmmm.... they sound a little sketchy on the details!

It's a complete replacement alarm control unit with a new receiver board. Unlike the earlier receiver boards, the later receivers are enclosedf within a metal outer hence the "shielded" nick-name. The receiver boards are soldered directly onto the alarm units printed circuit board, so we only ever supply complete alarm units and not separate receiver boards - de and re soldering electrical components such as the receiver board is usually a little fiddly for your avaerage dealer!
So thats one area cleared up - no "shields" are fitted by the dealer.

Secondly, as your model is the "classic" shape, only the driver's side lower dash panel and the alarm units metal cover needs to be removed - not the whole dash. It should take no more than 45 mins to swap the unit.

SS