craig5

can you help me today i've changed the battery in my key fob from my spare set,picked the kids from school everything o.k then went to mac's for there tea stayed in the car when they had finished went to start car so pressed fob and the dash light would not come on but the fob light is working but car will not start,got out of car and pressed fob and nothing will not arm or lock.so i reset car battery and stilll nothing but i can get car working through keypad in glove box and entering code car runs, turn off ignition press fob and still nowt?help thank's craig

chrisp

known problem, the signal is being blocked by a radio mast close by. Normally from something like a police station. You need to speak to your subaru dealer. Or may need your keyfob recoding

craig5

i've got home now and the fob is still not working,can anyone reset fob or does it have to be subaru

RON

You can do it yourself, IF you have the pin code for the keypad.....

I'm gonna email you the instructions for the whole system.....

Ron.

Keef69

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=364460

Try this thread, a common problem and all the answers on the thread.

Buzz Blaber

have this proplem were i live if you hold key fob in centre of bonnet near windscreen it works for me most of the time[careful of keys on bonnet]
if you got car home and still not working chances of it being air waves is slim

At least you can over ride it

please pm me on how you get on because was looking to get this alarm because of keypad thanks

craig5

buzz blaber i've reprogrammed the 2 fobs and everything is working again but i don't know why it happened as i've been to same mac's load's of times

graham72

i have this same problem with my MY99 classic, cant lock/unlock doors or disable immobiliser without using keyboard in the glovebox, right pain in the ***! though it might just be where i was this morning but ive been all over the place today and its still not working!

how do i reprogram the keyfobs or is it a completely different problem?

Bal

Yep, I had a similar problem a few years back at a Northern Scooby meet (near Birch services M62).
One of them Radio masts was messing about with the signal.

Sigma Sam

On the subject of radio lock out…....

Radio Lock Out
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key. This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.
The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards, are not faulty and were NOT considered eligible for warranty, although as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board if the vehicle was still within the warranty period.
This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004. The later ECUs are still available from Subaru (part number SACC 3465) but these are now chargeable.


Avoidance.
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.

- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.

- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.

- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attempts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.

- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.
If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be aborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual, practice entering the PIN before you need it and, if you bought the car second hand, ensure you know the correct PIN as this could have been changed by the previous owner and can be changed to one of your own choosing, following the instructions in the alarm booklet.
Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!

I hope this has cleared up a number of points that have been raised and will help to keep everyone mobile.

SS

AndrewRB

I have a related problem which has just become serious (ie my car is now stuck!). I have a MY99 Turbo which is fitted with a Tracker and the standard alarm/immobiliser. It also has the full PPP stuff.

Symptoms:

1. For a month or two I have had problems with the central locking in cold weather. I would plip the doors open with the fob button but then they would immediately close (within a few seconds) re-locking the car. I could work around this by opening the driver's door within a few seconds of doing the "plip" but the other doors all locked.

2. One of my fobs has stopped communicating with the car altogether - and it's not the batteries or the location.

3. Sometimes when I turn the engine on having (obviously) de-immobilised, there is a "peep" from the alarm as it turns on.

4. [serious one now] This morning the car opened OK but when I tried to turn it on the engine wouldn't turn over, even though the immobiliser was off. And there was a loud ticking sound coming from under the bonnet until I locked up again.

Now, these may not be related but they have all happened in the last couple of months. It might just be the battery, but before I set off for a long walk in the snow I'd be very pleased to hear if anyone has any other ideas.

Thanks

Andrew

Sigma Sam

Possibly a little late to be of any help now but I'll work my way though the points...

- Door locking. It may be that the optional "auto re-arm" feature has been turned on (this may have been done in error when programming using the keypad. Try arming and disarming with the remote and then key in *17856*05*0## to the keypad. This should turn the feature back off. If this does not fix the situation The problem could be due to a wiring problem or a faulty lock/unlock switch in the vehicles drivers door.

- No explanation for one of the remotes failing in normal operation other than batteries or location. Again, it is possible to program remotes into a system using the keypad and any remotes not present at thetime will be programmed out. To attempt to reprogram both remote to the system arm and disarm with the remote and then key in *17856*91*2# to the keypad and then press each of the remotes once in turn. The siren should bleep on each press as confirmation.

- The bleep when cranking the engine and the ticking noise are related - this sounds like the vehicles battery is low on charge or the starter is drawing too much current when cranking - the vehicle's battery voltage drops to such a level that the alarm ECU cannot operate correctly and the battery back-up siren thinks the vehicles power supply has been cut.

It sounds to me that you have a starter motor or more likely vehicle battery problem and some of your systems features have been changed in error when someone has attempted to re-program or adjust your system using the keypad.

SS

lochpark

Hi, guys need your help

Have an M30, however the cable between the keypad and the alarm has been severed behind the trim and removed from the control unit by the previous owner

The socket is six pins of which I believe one is used for the aeriel.

There are four wires attached to the keypad, can anyone please advise the correct pin connections so that I can extend the wires and sort out my alarm.

Cheers

Sigma Sam

A little difficult to describe on here without a diagram, but here goes...
Holding the keypad connector with the wires exiting toward you and the connector notch at the top the wires should be pinned as follows;
Short Black (Aerial) - Top Left
Red (+12v) - Top Centre
Blue (Data In) - Top Right
Black (Earth) - Bottom Centre
Brown (Data Out) - Bottom Right
The Bottom Left pin is not populated.
Hope that helps.
SS

lochpark

SS,

Cheers thats exactly what I need and it didn't need a diagram, your description is spot on.

Cheers