[Chris]

Just had a quick search of the forums - and it can't just be me with this problem.....

Got a MY00 with the subaru alarm system. You know the one with the big alarm fob with stupidly large batteries...

Sometimes when I park the car, and come back later, the alarm will not activate/deactivate. You stand around pressing the button like a muppet and not a peep from the car.

Ring up subaru assist 'Yes sir, there is probably a radio transmitter in your area which is blocking the signal to the alarm, if you push the car a couple of miles down the road away from the transmitter it will work again...'

I decided to forgo this pleasure and instead elected to get them to send me a tow truck. Why not use the 4 digit override key I hear you cry. Well funnily enough I did and... nada, nothing, nowt.

Well to cut a long story short I spent all of Saturday getting recovered back to my nearest dealer, as the fob had stopped working.

Is there any way of stopping this interferrence? What can be done??

scoobyboy1

iTrader: (16)

Got the same problem with a MY00, usually when i goto multi storey carparks, and the best one is my local Subaru specialists, everytime i go there they have to push my car down the road so that i can deactivate the alarm otherwise i cant start the car up. Also same problem about looking like a complete muppet, when people see me running round the car trying diffrent angles to get it to work. BLOODY SUBARU ALARMS!

Allan

iTrader: (1)

see here

Warranty replacement=no more problems

Allan

Markyboy uk

I have this problem on MY01 when parking close to transmitters. Had to call the AA out one day thinking they would tow me a few hundred yards down the road. The AA bloke said to try holding the car aerial with the other hand when you try to lock/unlock the car (using button not key)- I have (so far) had success everytime when doing this.

Imobilizer
Wen you're in the car and can't disarm the immobilizer try taking the keys out, bring the remote control down into the passenger footwell and press the button a few times - apparantly there is better shielding down there (according to AA bloke) - This too has worked for me several times (which is good coz I don't know my 4 digit pin number)

davek

had the same prob on my myoo. Couldn't use remote outside comets in lakeside ( transmitter nearby) has if it did activate i'd probably spend ages trying to de-activate later, so just used key to lock/unlock as normal.
Thankfully no probs on my03.

[Chris]

Thanks for the link - Now why did it not come up when I did a search!

Ah well - The car will be booked in asap.

Haxzer

Had same prob with MY00, Got the dealer to fit a Sheided ECU, never had the problem since!.

Was also done under warrenty.

Haxzer

Ayde

iTrader: (6)

Got this on my MY99 I find when I park at my local Subaru dealer it wont set or unset so I have to use the keypad! The other day it wouldnt unset with the keypad (must of hit a wrong number) I have found sometimes if you put the fob at the base of the windscreen from inside the car it sometimes works the other day I stuck my hand in the glovebox and closed it as much as I could and pressed the fob and this worked after a couple of presses must have shielded it enough

S7EV3N

Whilst we are on the subject of obscure remedies. You could try holding the fob to your chin and pushing the button. This enhances the signal cos we are all human aerials.

Jules23uk

There is a very easy solution to this guys - stop pissing around with these old heaps of **** and get the new models. My ex boyfriend used to endeavour to impress me with trips out and i'd spend most of my time stood in multi storey car parks because the *******' cheapo old pile of **** would not disarm or unlock! I ditched him, i brought a new STi and have had no problem with car parks or dick weed boyfriends since then! oXo!

Allan

iTrader: (1)

That's a helpful first post
Your very fortunate to be able to afford a new Sti, welcome to Scoobynet.

Keef69

I know the answer! Had this problem originally with a Golf GTI & Sigma M30. I spoke direct with TOAD alarms, managing director, no less! He said that the alarms made prior to '99 were set at 433mhz and were never a problem. Then the government allowed telephone companies/police/fire etc to use 420-430mhz bandwidths. So when you are near a mast/hospital or police station you get a bleed over as their signal is much stronger! I assume the guys with MY00/01 cars had older alarm units fitted.

One cheap way to overcome it is use the Top Gear trick and put the fob to your head, creating an amplified signal (no you don't have to open your mouth as some people have suggested!) It often works.

I managed to persuade the MD to send me a new unit, foc and paid a local dealer to fit it for £40 inc. So either hassle TOAD direct or buy a new unit is the only way round it, if the head trick doesn't work.

PS. I have the codes for your alarms, if you want to programme any of the features, like locking the doors on start up or turning beeps on/off. You can also programme new fobs yourself and most importantly, change the PIN number. Remember, the person before you still has your PIN number probably and can over-ride your alarm, if they are that way inclined. Mail me if you'd like the codes, put Sigma as the subject though, I delete all spam looking mails! bullkeith@aol.com

BROOKS1E

hi guys ..we have the same trouble with our MY00 Wagon .....first found out bout it parked outside our local scoob dealer he showed us where to point the fob and it worked either under the steering wheel pointing at the dash or outside point the fob and run along where the wipers are mounted about an inch away from them or if you are a youngster that means 25MM .....lol....hope this helps it did with us !

TONY F

waited 5 months for alarm upgrade from my local dealer,just had it all took off and a new clifford to replace it so far so good

Sigma Sam

On the subject of radio lock out….

Radio Lock Out
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telephone companies/police/fire/ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal isso much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key. This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.
The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards, are not faulty and were NOT considered eligible for warrant , although as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board if the vehicle was still within the warranty period.

Avoidance.
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.

- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.

- The keypad can NOT be effected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.

- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attemts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.

- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.
If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be abborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual, practice entering the PIN before you need it and, if you bought the car second hand, ensure you know the correct PIN as this could have been changed by the previous owner and can be changed to one of your own choosing, following the instructions in the alarm booklet.
Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!

I hope this has cleared up a number of points that have been raised and will help to keep eveyone mobile.

SS

Sigma Sam

By the way, for those of you that do not have a copy of the Operating Instructions these can be found at
http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subaru...pic.php?t=2476
SS