Sigma M30 M34 output problem, please help!
15 April 2003, 12:48 PM
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Hi everyone!
Please, please I need some help!
After scouring the web for hours, this site appears to be the only one to offer anything usefull on SIGMA alarms. I have a problem with my Sigma M34 (same as M30, but without the immobiliser)
Everything works ok, except the siren… When connected, it just makes a faint popping noise in all modes, so I had it disconnected. The central locking is still fine and the alarm goes off when attacked (hazards flashing) This system is supposed to have a backup battery inside the siren, isn’t it?
My siren definitely does not have one…
The system came form a local car accessory shop which has since gone bust, so I can’t go back there.
Has it been supplied with the correct siren?
My one has two wires coming out of it, the red and the black, which are covered in an outer black insulation and the connectors are unterminated. The siren connector that goes on the alarm box has three black wires coming out of it and an empty connector, altogether four contacts. One (the long black wire) is for the perimeter protection (i.e. bonnet switch), which is connected and works fine.
The other two are supposedly for the siren connections, but when the siren is connected to those two, it just pops faintly and does nothing else. Is the connection right?
Is the main module at fault, or is it a question of getting the new siren, and where can I get one?
I am in west London, tried the local dealer who said £70 +vat just to look at the car….****.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Also, will there be any chances of getting a copy of the sigma installers manual? Mine came just with the user manual and two photocopied pages with the wiring. If I sort the siren problem out, I’d like to be able to set the auto arm and auto re-arm facitily…..
Many thanx!
Please, please I need some help!
After scouring the web for hours, this site appears to be the only one to offer anything usefull on SIGMA alarms. I have a problem with my Sigma M34 (same as M30, but without the immobiliser)
Everything works ok, except the siren… When connected, it just makes a faint popping noise in all modes, so I had it disconnected. The central locking is still fine and the alarm goes off when attacked (hazards flashing) This system is supposed to have a backup battery inside the siren, isn’t it?
My siren definitely does not have one…
The system came form a local car accessory shop which has since gone bust, so I can’t go back there.
Has it been supplied with the correct siren?
My one has two wires coming out of it, the red and the black, which are covered in an outer black insulation and the connectors are unterminated. The siren connector that goes on the alarm box has three black wires coming out of it and an empty connector, altogether four contacts. One (the long black wire) is for the perimeter protection (i.e. bonnet switch), which is connected and works fine.
The other two are supposedly for the siren connections, but when the siren is connected to those two, it just pops faintly and does nothing else. Is the connection right?
Is the main module at fault, or is it a question of getting the new siren, and where can I get one?
I am in west London, tried the local dealer who said £70 +vat just to look at the car….****.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Also, will there be any chances of getting a copy of the sigma installers manual? Mine came just with the user manual and two photocopied pages with the wiring. If I sort the siren problem out, I’d like to be able to set the auto arm and auto re-arm facitily…..
Many thanx!
15 April 2003, 01:17 PM
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Depends what car you drive !
Only joking !
M30 manual on its way.
Its not the complete manual for obvious reasons but may help.
Your right about the internal back up battery - it should be there !
Try the search facilty with different dates & titles and all your questions should be answered, in one way or another.
Only joking !
M30 manual on its way.
Its not the complete manual for obvious reasons but may help.
Your right about the internal back up battery - it should be there !
Try the search facilty with different dates & titles and all your questions should be answered, in one way or another.
16 April 2003, 08:35 AM
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Many thanx for the instructions, very useful and spot on, but I see what you mean about messing your system up if you are not sure how it is done!
It just goes to show there are people out there ready to help and they don’t want much in return, much appreciated!
I went back to the local rip off shop and asked to look at the M34 battery backup siren. £40 in cash later, he decided to part with the correct battery backup siren and it is all working great now.
This system, and probably the M30, is NOT compatible with an ordinary siren, even though the plug looks the same!
Battery backup siren has three wires; +12V supply (red), Negative supply (black) and a data link (screened red), whilst the ordinary one has only two (audio) black wires. The fourth one is, of course, the bonnet switch
The four pin connector does not come with the new siren, just the terminated ends, so I had to wiggle out the old black wires and insert the new ends in their correct positions. Thus the faint popping I heard when the old siren was in circuit. It was in fact the data bus line from the main module……
The car in question is a Commie Cadillac, a diesel Skoda Felicia, so go on and bring the jokes on!
When I grow up I’ll get myself a real car, a nice little Scoob……
It just goes to show there are people out there ready to help and they don’t want much in return, much appreciated!
I went back to the local rip off shop and asked to look at the M34 battery backup siren. £40 in cash later, he decided to part with the correct battery backup siren and it is all working great now.
This system, and probably the M30, is NOT compatible with an ordinary siren, even though the plug looks the same!
Battery backup siren has three wires; +12V supply (red), Negative supply (black) and a data link (screened red), whilst the ordinary one has only two (audio) black wires. The fourth one is, of course, the bonnet switch
The four pin connector does not come with the new siren, just the terminated ends, so I had to wiggle out the old black wires and insert the new ends in their correct positions. Thus the faint popping I heard when the old siren was in circuit. It was in fact the data bus line from the main module……
The car in question is a Commie Cadillac, a diesel Skoda Felicia, so go on and bring the jokes on!
When I grow up I’ll get myself a real car, a nice little Scoob……
16 April 2003, 12:51 PM
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Yup, Sigmas have a data link. I replaced broken sigma alarm sounder on a renault clio with a Clifford unit and it did the same.
Solution? Add a relay. The data link pulse wasn't enough to trip the relay, but the full whack trigger was. The relay got rid of those, and saved me a small fortune
Cheers,
Nick.
Solution? Add a relay. The data link pulse wasn't enough to trip the relay, but the full whack trigger was. The relay got rid of those, and saved me a small fortune
Cheers,
Nick.
17 April 2003, 11:42 AM
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Thanx for the tip, that is an interesting way of doing it…
I was thinking along those lines as a last resort, but after looking at the setup manual (scooby towers many thanx again!), I think it can be done this way too; One of the programmable accessory outputs (I think wire 18) is, or can be set to become
–Ve, but only when the alarm is fully triggered (and sounding the horn).
Any kind of siren (and a relay, if over 0.2A) could be hooked to that channel, but then will you lose the arm disarm and door open chirps? Of course, no battery backup either. This will probably take it out of the thatcham classification, but it will offer some protection at least. Without the correct siren, mine was little more than a very expensive remote central locking interface.
If the data line is used to trigger the relay, will all the warning chirps operate too?
Another question; Have you ever used the courtesy dome light on, on disarm?
As far as I can figure, one of the programmable outputs can be set to provide the –Ve for a preset amount of time after disarm only. Can this wire be connected directly to the door pin (where the wire 1 of the sigma goes, which is the door pin switch negative trigger) or do I need to use a relay?
Also, the Commie Cadillac is a diesel and has one clever thing built in; the pre-warm cycle starts to operate as soon as the driver’s door is open. A separate wire goes from the door pin to the diesel ECU. I presume this must be the way to tell it to start pre-warming the glow plugs after the driver’s door has been opened. Perhaps the pre-warm will start as soon as the system is disarmed, which can’t be a bad thing and I can’t see any way of harming the alarm or the ECU by doing it this way. What do you think?
Many thanx!
I was thinking along those lines as a last resort, but after looking at the setup manual (scooby towers many thanx again!), I think it can be done this way too; One of the programmable accessory outputs (I think wire 18) is, or can be set to become
–Ve, but only when the alarm is fully triggered (and sounding the horn).
Any kind of siren (and a relay, if over 0.2A) could be hooked to that channel, but then will you lose the arm disarm and door open chirps? Of course, no battery backup either. This will probably take it out of the thatcham classification, but it will offer some protection at least. Without the correct siren, mine was little more than a very expensive remote central locking interface.
If the data line is used to trigger the relay, will all the warning chirps operate too?
Another question; Have you ever used the courtesy dome light on, on disarm?
As far as I can figure, one of the programmable outputs can be set to provide the –Ve for a preset amount of time after disarm only. Can this wire be connected directly to the door pin (where the wire 1 of the sigma goes, which is the door pin switch negative trigger) or do I need to use a relay?
Also, the Commie Cadillac is a diesel and has one clever thing built in; the pre-warm cycle starts to operate as soon as the driver’s door is open. A separate wire goes from the door pin to the diesel ECU. I presume this must be the way to tell it to start pre-warming the glow plugs after the driver’s door has been opened. Perhaps the pre-warm will start as soon as the system is disarmed, which can’t be a bad thing and I can’t see any way of harming the alarm or the ECU by doing it this way. What do you think?
Many thanx!
17 April 2003, 04:08 PM
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Glad the manual was of some use.
Sounds as if Chiark was of more use than me
As for the Thatcham cerification - I would have thought that would have been lost with a self install, but don't quote me (I'm no expert), its just that I have a stamped certificate on mine that the insurance company wanted to see as proof it was correctly installed (no disrespect to your skills intended).
Anyway good luck with finishing your project.
Chris
Sounds as if Chiark was of more use than me
As for the Thatcham cerification - I would have thought that would have been lost with a self install, but don't quote me (I'm no expert), its just that I have a stamped certificate on mine that the insurance company wanted to see as proof it was correctly installed (no disrespect to your skills intended).
Anyway good luck with finishing your project.
Chris
13 August 2006, 06:23 PM
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HELP!
I've been scourin the nre for hours too, to try and find a USer Manual for my Sigma M series alarm as I've inadvertently thrown it away!
Does anyone know how to contact Sigma? They don't seem to have an address, phone number or even a website.
Thanks!
I've been scourin the nre for hours too, to try and find a USer Manual for my Sigma M series alarm as I've inadvertently thrown it away!
Does anyone know how to contact Sigma? They don't seem to have an address, phone number or even a website.
Thanks!
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13 August 2006, 07:11 PM
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You can contact them through toad (AFAIK).
http://www.tg21plc.com/distribution/...ma/contact.php
Gav
http://www.tg21plc.com/distribution/...ma/contact.php
Gav
13 August 2006, 08:01 PM
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Thanks Gav!
I've sent an enquiry, but they're out of the office until Aug 29th
Still, at least you've found me a contact, there is just no-where listed anywere for Sigma. How odd.
Thanks ever-so-much again
Shred
I've sent an enquiry, but they're out of the office until Aug 29th
Still, at least you've found me a contact, there is just no-where listed anywere for Sigma. How odd.
Thanks ever-so-much again
Shred
14 August 2006, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by shreddie
HELP!
I've been scourin the nre for hours too, to try and find a USer Manual for my Sigma M series alarm as I've inadvertently thrown it away!
Does anyone know how to contact Sigma? They don't seem to have an address, phone number or even a website.
Thanks!
I've been scourin the nre for hours too, to try and find a USer Manual for my Sigma M series alarm as I've inadvertently thrown it away!
Does anyone know how to contact Sigma? They don't seem to have an address, phone number or even a website.
Thanks!
Pm me with your personal details, and I will see what I can sort you out with. Either postal address or an e-mail address.
Regards
Mike.N
16 August 2006, 12:50 PM
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from sigma sam on another post:
If you have trouble finding a Sigma dealer in the yellow pages etc, you can contact our sales desk on 0870 417 7795 who should be able to advise you of your nearest dealer. Just check that it is a Sigma dealer as Toad dealers are also listed on the database, but will not have the necessay programmer.
If you have trouble finding a Sigma dealer in the yellow pages etc, you can contact our sales desk on 0870 417 7795 who should be able to advise you of your nearest dealer. Just check that it is a Sigma dealer as Toad dealers are also listed on the database, but will not have the necessay programmer.
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