evil_scoobs

Hey,
Just wondering if anyone up here, maybe Glasgow or Edinburgh area has a new shape Jap sti.
Im thinking of buying one and wondering how fast they actually are when on the road as I want a car thats faster or as fast as my 200sx just now.

Are there any other fast scoobies up here in Scotland? Are there many scottish owners on here?

Cheers
Ross

Gus the Bus

Nah mate! all over on Scottish Scoobies - Subaru Impreza Drivers Club Forums

Gus

Rice Rocket

iTrader: (23)

If you want to find out whos got something better than the next scoob owner, abit like keeping up with the jones' over there! Alot of ZZZZZZ reading the posts

LG John

Andy F's car is quite peppy is it not

WHEELSHOP0_0

^^^^^ well peppy(ish) anyway.

scooby222

there are a lot of toys getting thrown about over at scottish scoobies just now, but theres also a lot of good guys with a lot of knowledge. as for power, i would say any new age jdm sti or uk sti ppp would be quicker on road than your 200sx unless youve done a lot of work to it,and even then on twisty a and b roads i cant see it keeping up. ive got an 05 sti ppp and was out in it today and the cornering speeds are ridiculously great. theres a few guys in scotland running 380+ hp on newage stis without spending a massive amount of money.
whereabouts are you based?

evil_scoobs

Im based in Glasgow.
The 200 has had quite a bit of work done to it and its running between about 330-350bhp , maybe more when its running right.

380 bhp without spending much sounds great

where you based?

Im just worried about the scoobs as I keep reading once they are rolling they arent that fast, its just off the line they are fast.
One of the reasons I loved the JDM ones was the DCCD so I could have it a bit more RWD biased as I would miss that on the 200sx, but I read there seems to be issues with that now as well and embarassing clunking noises.

Suppose no car is without its quirks

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

The only "issue" you'll have with DCCD is almost stacking it every time you floor it and the car isn't perfectly straight, or even when it is, until you get used to it that is. That back end steps out FAST.

As for clunking noises, it cost a bloody fortune to get that noise. It means you've got a plated front diff.

evil_scoobs

Sounds a bit worrying lol
Thought they were meant to grip really well.

Do you have a JDM one?

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

Yup, version 5.

They do grip but it can be a bit lively and you can't just floor it anywhere they way I used to with my old UK one with non DCCD.

John Stevenson

[ObiWan Mode On] Use the Force young one [ObiWan Mode off]

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

More like

[yoda mode]Crash now will I, yes, hmmmmm [/yoda mode]

Didn't realise your's had DCCD John. Out of interest, what do you set it at for the hill climbs? Leave mine wide open just about all the time.

GazTheHat

I've just had a Stage 2 done on my EU STi, should be circa 360-370bhp. That is pretty brutal.

With the rest of the mods, the corners just don't exist and the amount of ground you can cover when booting it on B Roads is just

scottySTI3

Try AyrshireScoobies.com mate.

You don't have to be from Ayrshire and they are VERY friendly over there.

Loads of events have been organised and run over there the last several months including runs/shows/race nights/go-karting and general get-togethers.

With 68 odd members its a compact but very member orientated club.

Have a look mate, you might like what you see.

Scotty

andythejock01wrx

Tell us more Gaz ! What have you had done and what's it like to drive. Is there much lag ? When does it spool up ? What are your handling mods ?

Andy Mc

PS Got any pics ?

scottySTI3

Remeber its not the BHP that makes the difference its the torque.

Im dying to get more out of my vr 3 but until its had the Apexi FC fitted and re-mapped then there aint much i can do (safely)

There is a few big power Scoobs up here, was out a run a couple of months ago where there was a heavily modded peanut eye and my god was it rapid ,seriously when the driver floored it it just flew.

GazTheHat

Pics are coming, just waiting for the de-tango and it to be valeted/cleaned.

Mate, i was worried about lag/low down with the turbo change, but i can honestly say it is better than before, the 2400-2900RPM feels more urgent. Was amazed. Then about 2800 you can hear the induction noise, much louder by 3100, then.....hold on....here comes light speed!

It's brutal mate. Haven't felt the full force yet (4th-6th), as the neutral position switch is dodgy, but should be replaced soon, then back to Andy to finalise mapping.

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Here is the PM i sent to evil_scoobs about mods:

First i got Pentagon Tints, with anti-smash supaglass film (£300). Followed by Prodrive springs and geometry (£500). This made the car much harsher and introduced a few dash rattles.

Next came the 18"s with Toyo T1-S (£700). This removed the terrible tramlining completely and reduced the road noise. Also a set of Mudflaps (£65).

Then came stage 1. I made a few mistakes. I bought a decat 2.5" system, to keep the noise down, as i was sure 3" decats would be louder. How wrong was i. The afterburner & ninja combo was waking the dead. Sounded awesome, but i always felt guilty when my 2yr old was in the back.

I was going to go for TSL333, but i had already bought the backbox and filter, so i thought i could save money and do my "own" package.

Stage 1:
Afterburner Decat Downpipe (£205)
Afterburner Decat Pipe (£100)
Afterburner Centre (£100)
Ninja Backbox (£225)
Simota High Flow filter (£30)
Walbro 255 l/ph pump (£80)
Ported & wrapped headers and up-pipe (£400)
Andy F Remap (£700)

total: £1740 + £200 fitting. £1940.

So i got more than the package offers (headers) for less money.

At the RR session it made 315bhp with 1.3 bar. Now the torque was low (275), which turns out i had a faulty neutral switch, which makes the car think it's in neutral when it's not so the variable valve timing was not working properly.

Dastek (who have considered one of the most accurate RRoads) said that was very good! The best PPP STi they have had only made 289bhp.

The car was fantastic then. Boost came in much lower than standard (std: 3800rpm, st1: 2900rpm) and when it hit, it hit for longer, harder. Perfect!

There was a slight induction noise, could hear the turbo spooling because of the header work and sounded fantastic, could prompt pop/bangs from the exhaust too. Sometimes got uber flames and WRC bangs.

I then got other mods done. Anti-Lift Kit, Rear Anti-Roll bar and 4 wheel geometry at Powerstation. This also transformed the car. It handled SO MUCH BETTER! And when you braked/accelerated, there was no pitch/dive on the car.

It was now an awesome point-to-point car. There are some super special stages (almost) near us and took a few people out there. Their faces were priceless. I felt i couldn't go much faster round the corners, but wanted more straight line power...

Then i came into a bit of money, so what else to spend it on, yep! stage 2.

Stage 2:

APS 70mm Cold Air Induction Kit (£205)
Hayward & Scott True 3" Wrapped downpipe (£355)
Revolution 3" cat-back (£275)
TD05/18g Turbo (£850)
NGK 7b's Iridium Plugs (£50)
3 Port boost solenoid (£120)
Andy F Remap (£240)

Ferrodo DS2500 Front & Rear Pads (£320)
Goodridge S/Steel Brake hoses (£50)

Total: £2365 + £220 fitting. £2585. (Minus £700 for old parts)

This stage is not complete, because that switch came apparent it was faulty during this mapping, so i don't have full whack in 4-6th. But in 2nd and 3rd gear, wow, it's brutal. That's how it could be described.

The exhaust is quieter (i miss the stage 1 setup already!), there is quite a lot of induction noise now, but only if you use a lot of throttle.

Believe it or not, the low-down pull is better than Stage 1. I was concerned about the bigger turbo, losing bottom end for top end, making it less driveable. But it's the opposite. I don't know how, but it is. So it's ultimately a better setup.

It is a 370bhp turbo, so it should be 360-370bhp with similar torque and it's holds 1.53bar almost the whole range, only dropping to 1.38bar at 6000rpm.

I'm waiting for Subaru to change that switch under warranty (this week hopefully!) and then go back to Andy to complete the mapping. Then it should be all go!!!!

I don't think the car has gone to far that it is a point and squirt one. But i will have a little more respect for it than after stage 1.

(I don't normally rise up, but a classic overtook a few cars to get behind me the other day. I waited for a gap, signalled to him and booted it. I left him, like i would leave a micra. Even with half the torque!! )

I've done other subtle mods light headlights, better wipers, that kinda thing, just to correct all the original faults with the standard car.

As you can see by my route, i've bought a lot of parts that had to be replaced/sold on to do the next stage, so you can obviously do it better with some planning and knowledge, but for your ideas, i think the 18g is an excellent route.

Depending on your budget, i could give you some recommendations on what to get, to make the best improvements.

This STi is a league in front of a STi PPP. The only reason people get the PPP is due to warranty. I wasn't bothered about that. My local garage has done plenty of warranty work, regardless of the mods.

Let me know your plans...
Gaz
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