oil catch tank options
10 January 2014, 11:59 PM
#1
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oil catch tank options
ok people with oil catch tanks
what tank do you have?
where have you fitted it?
do you have a breather or do you vent it into the intake
what tank do you have?
where have you fitted it?
do you have a breather or do you vent it into the intake
12 January 2014, 11:58 AM
#3
I run an air oil separator, so its maintenance free - fits onto oil filler pipe in place of normal cap.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps1a9a369c.jpg
And so far appears to be doing the job
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps1a9a369c.jpg
And so far appears to be doing the job
12 January 2014, 12:08 PM
#6
I run an air oil separator, so its maintenance free - fits onto oil filler pipe in place of normal cap.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps1a9a369c.jpg
And so far appears to be doing the job
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps1a9a369c.jpg
And so far appears to be doing the job
What exactly does that do ??
12 January 2014, 12:42 PM
#10
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Have a read here http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/26001.html
12 January 2014, 01:04 PM
#11
A closed system, if there is such a thing, is likely to do your engine internals no good at all.
Have a read here http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/26001.html
Have a read here http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/26001.html
12 January 2014, 01:20 PM
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You say you've 'read all about it' and yet you've missed a key feature of standard crankcase ventilation
Quote from Andy Forrest...
"The Subaru system has two main phases depending on manifold pressure/vacuum.
Under manifold vacuum conditions (probably 99% of the engines life) there is a non return valve under the throttle body, which allows the 'blow by' vapours to be drawn into the manifold. The vapours are replaced from the vents on the cam covers, supplied from the inlet duct. This provides the circulation of air through the engine, prevents condensation, oil contamination and internal corrosion."
Quote from Andy Forrest...
"The Subaru system has two main phases depending on manifold pressure/vacuum.
Under manifold vacuum conditions (probably 99% of the engines life) there is a non return valve under the throttle body, which allows the 'blow by' vapours to be drawn into the manifold. The vapours are replaced from the vents on the cam covers, supplied from the inlet duct. This provides the circulation of air through the engine, prevents condensation, oil contamination and internal corrosion."
12 January 2014, 01:27 PM
#15
yes i read that.
maybe i stated wrong in saying its 'closed loop' what im saying is that it doesn't VTA and that the oil does not catch (in the can) and as such does not get contaminated with moisture that mixes forms the milky substance everybody see's in their catch can.
maybe i stated wrong in saying its 'closed loop' what im saying is that it doesn't VTA and that the oil does not catch (in the can) and as such does not get contaminated with moisture that mixes forms the milky substance everybody see's in their catch can.
12 January 2014, 01:55 PM
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But there will be fresh air drawn into the crankcase by virtue of 'the vents on the cam covers, supplied from the inlet duct.' Therefore you can't help but have some moisture content. The fact that you aren't seeing any mayonnaise is probably more likely to be because your engine is run at proper operating temperatures for long enough to evaporate any contaminating water vapour in the oil.
13 January 2014, 07:41 AM
#17
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It dose seem a tad risky putting it back into the engine. However any moisture will quickly eveporate and get sucked through the intake and out the exhaust. Quite a tricky choice
13 January 2014, 08:10 AM
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Important question. Where dose the air get into the cam covers and other vented areas ect?
this picture seems to agree with andy forsits statements
this picture seems to agree with andy forsits statements
Last edited by joshnosh; 13 January 2014 at 08:17 AM.
13 January 2014, 08:44 AM
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why is there no benefit? i want my intake to be nice and clean. the idle valve gets clogged with crappy oil?
im thinking the best setup would be:
vents are all connected to catch can, catch can then T off.
one side goes to PCV and allows air to be drawn into the intake off boost
another side gose to a one way valve to stop the vacuum drawing air in and then to a vent
more research tells me that piston blow by pressurizes the inside off the engine so you dont need to pressureise it. it wount be long till you come off throttle anyway and the intake sucks it all up anyway
it seems to be a good idea to install a 1 way valve though
if you VTA then most off the time thats actualy being an intake. not a vent! this is potentaly draging moist air through the system
Last edited by joshnosh; 13 January 2014 at 09:02 AM.
13 January 2014, 09:21 AM
#22
well there not exactly expensive so im not to worried
why is there no benefit? i want my intake to be nice and clean. the idle valve gets clogged with crappy oil?
im thinking the best setup would be:
vents are all connected to catch can, catch can then T off.
one side goes to PCV and allows air to be drawn into the intake off boost
another side gose to a one way valve to stop the vacuum drawing air in and then to a vent
maybe its an idea to bleed off a tiny amount off boost into the intake to keep it pressurized and open the one way valve
more research tells me that piston blow by pressurizes the inside off the engine so you dont need to pressureise it. it wount be long till you come off throttle anyway and the intake sucks it all up anyway
it seems to be a good idea to install a 1 way valve though
if you VTA then most off the time thats actualy being an intake. not a vent! this is potentaly draging moist air through the system
why is there no benefit? i want my intake to be nice and clean. the idle valve gets clogged with crappy oil?
im thinking the best setup would be:
vents are all connected to catch can, catch can then T off.
one side goes to PCV and allows air to be drawn into the intake off boost
another side gose to a one way valve to stop the vacuum drawing air in and then to a vent
more research tells me that piston blow by pressurizes the inside off the engine so you dont need to pressureise it. it wount be long till you come off throttle anyway and the intake sucks it all up anyway
it seems to be a good idea to install a 1 way valve though
if you VTA then most off the time thats actualy being an intake. not a vent! this is potentaly draging moist air through the system
ok well there is a slight benefit obviously,but i meant more there is not an issue on a standard wrx with the idll valve etc getting dirty and even if it does its a simple fix to clean.
all you will be doing is creating a can to empty with no real benefit to the car. spend the money on something else, a good service would be more beneficial to the car.
a catch can is really not needed on a standard power wrx at all.
13 January 2014, 09:35 AM
#23
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ok well there is a slight benefit obviously,but i meant more there is not an issue on a standard wrx with the idll valve etc getting dirty and even if it does its a simple fix to clean.
all you will be doing is creating a can to empty with no real benefit to the car. spend the money on something else, a good service would be more beneficial to the car.
a catch can is really not needed on a standard power wrx at all.
all you will be doing is creating a can to empty with no real benefit to the car. spend the money on something else, a good service would be more beneficial to the car.
a catch can is really not needed on a standard power wrx at all.
13 January 2014, 09:41 AM
#24
mainly keeps the octane rating up, which is good on high powered cars to avoid knock, obviously on a standard car its not so important as its not running at the limit.
i fitted one when i fitted my fmic to avoid getting the new intercooler and pipe work coated in residue,obviously your car has been running for a few years so the oil residue is already there so unless your going to clean it all out then fit the can its pretty pointless and as its running ok now the residue is doing no harm anyway so why fit a can???
i fitted one when i fitted my fmic to avoid getting the new intercooler and pipe work coated in residue,obviously your car has been running for a few years so the oil residue is already there so unless your going to clean it all out then fit the can its pretty pointless and as its running ok now the residue is doing no harm anyway so why fit a can???
13 January 2014, 09:44 AM
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mainly keeps the octane rating up, which is good on high powered cars to avoid knock, obviously on a standard car its not so important as its not running at the limit.
i fitted one when i fitted my fmic to avoid getting the new inter cooler and pipe work coated in residue,obviously your car has been running for a few years so the oil residue is already there so unless your going to clean it all out then fit the can its pretty pointless and as its running ok now the residue is doing no harm anyway so why fit a can???
i fitted one when i fitted my fmic to avoid getting the new inter cooler and pipe work coated in residue,obviously your car has been running for a few years so the oil residue is already there so unless your going to clean it all out then fit the can its pretty pointless and as its running ok now the residue is doing no harm anyway so why fit a can???
and i plan on changing the top mount and pipework yeah
your not massivly convincing me to not get one. there only like 25 quid on ebay
13 January 2014, 09:47 AM
#26
a proper 3 port baffled set up with pipework is more like £100 plus.
im not trying to convince you, just posting an opinion that its a waste of money on a standard wrx.
it will do no harm and possibly even have a tiny benefit, but the cost involved and the hassle to empty it assuming you are not returning to sump is not worth it.
13 January 2014, 09:51 AM
#27
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and the £25 ones are crap, you need a baffled one really and also a fair bit of decent piping and clips.
a proper 3 port baffled set up with pipework is more like £100 plus.
im not trying to convince you, just posting an opinion that its a waste of money on a standard wrx.
it will do no harm and possibly even have a tiny benefit, but the cost involved and the hassle to empty it assuming you are not returning to sump is not worth it.
a proper 3 port baffled set up with pipework is more like £100 plus.
im not trying to convince you, just posting an opinion that its a waste of money on a standard wrx.
it will do no harm and possibly even have a tiny benefit, but the cost involved and the hassle to empty it assuming you are not returning to sump is not worth it.
and iv got to buy pipe work anywayif it saves me having to clean the car out every year i think its worth it
thanks for your help though
28 March 2014, 04:18 AM
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yes i read that.
maybe i stated wrong in saying its 'closed loop' what im saying is that it doesn't VTA and that the oil does not catch (in the can) and as such does not get contaminated with moisture that mixes forms the milky substance everybody see's in their catch can.
maybe i stated wrong in saying its 'closed loop' what im saying is that it doesn't VTA and that the oil does not catch (in the can) and as such does not get contaminated with moisture that mixes forms the milky substance everybody see's in their catch can.
28 March 2014, 09:32 AM
#29
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Does that make sense?
Paul.
28 March 2014, 03:17 PM
#30
On a 2.5 that is oil thirsty and is used hard that regulary has the oil dropped out of it.
So a more track focused car, then there is a case for running a return to sump feed from the catch can.
On most set ups I would go for VTA. As it does collect crap
So a more track focused car, then there is a case for running a return to sump feed from the catch can.
On most set ups I would go for VTA. As it does collect crap