Heating is NOT working. Classic Sti.
#1
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Heating is NOT working. Classic Sti.
Hi guys.
Both, top and bottom rad hoses are hot, header tank hoses as well, blower works perfectly but there is no hot air !!!
No matter how long the engine is running it keep blowing cold air even when set hot.
The other day blower stopped working completely and found out burned fuse, changed it and it's fine apart from not blowing hot air.
The other thing I've found was the heater matrix wire that was getting hot when blower was on ! So that caused fuse burn. It is not actually whole wire, it's the only that short bit (don't know why but it's not one piece wire, it is extended by the same thickness wire and plugged together if you know what I mean ? )
Thank You
Both, top and bottom rad hoses are hot, header tank hoses as well, blower works perfectly but there is no hot air !!!
No matter how long the engine is running it keep blowing cold air even when set hot.
The other day blower stopped working completely and found out burned fuse, changed it and it's fine apart from not blowing hot air.
The other thing I've found was the heater matrix wire that was getting hot when blower was on ! So that caused fuse burn. It is not actually whole wire, it's the only that short bit (don't know why but it's not one piece wire, it is extended by the same thickness wire and plugged together if you know what I mean ? )
Thank You
#6
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Didn't check if matrix was hot as well. Can't do it now as have no car ATM :-(
Could understand if bottom hose was cold so at least will know that there is an air lock.
Could understand if bottom hose was cold so at least will know that there is an air lock.
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#8
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Temperature is controlled by flaps that regulate the air flow across or bypass the matrix. The heater matrix is a full flow item and has no water shut off valve.
Would think one of the operating control wires or levers has become detached leaving the flaps in the wrong position.
As for a wire getting hot - thats whats supposed to happen. It's a speed control resistor (item22 on first link below)
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_3/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/
Would think one of the operating control wires or levers has become detached leaving the flaps in the wrong position.
As for a wire getting hot - thats whats supposed to happen. It's a speed control resistor (item22 on first link below)
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_3/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/
http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/
#11
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You can check the wire cables and links by dropping the lower parts of the dash and looking at their operation when you move the heater controls.
A number of people have found arms have dropped off/come loose before..........
I was really lucky an arm had come adrift under the dash now it all works great and the aircon is ice cool so i dont even need a regas thanks a very happy chappy
If the core is blocked (I would think, not likely) you can back flush it by disconnecting the inlet/outlet hoses at the back of the engine
Last edited by Don Clark; 20 July 2013 at 09:30 PM.
#12
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Hmmm... Didn't think about heater controls. It's possible as recently removed the dashboard a couple of times due to roll cage fitting. I will have a look tomorrow. Only top, main part of the dash is fitted ATM so will be very easy to check that.
Thanks a lot mate !
Thanks a lot mate !
#13
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The roll cage I've bought came with dash already pre cutted so didn't have to damage mine one. Only thing I had to do, was to swap everything round (wire looms, controls etc) so I wouldn't really be surprised if something went wrong by doing this :-)
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