Is worth the risk ? Remapping.....
#1
Is worth the risk ? Remapping.....
Currently own a 95 wrx, with various mods/improvements etc, if i were to remap i would fit a front mount as well as a cone filter into the wing to totally utilise the remap etc, anyway, with my mods and the front mount id expect to see around 300 bhp etc, torque im not sure about, but its that what i want, not top end power, but the grunt getting there.
So, with 98k (miles) on the clock, is it worth the risk, for say, a gain of what, 40ish bhp ?!?! im guestimating my bhp to be about 260 with the z4 ecu as with age, power drops a bit etc.
So, even tho ive owned it 8 yrs, it was an everyday car, now more a short journey/weekend car,
oil changes every 5k and always well maintained, is it a gamble waiting for those big ends to pop at 98k on the rollers ?
cheers
So, with 98k (miles) on the clock, is it worth the risk, for say, a gain of what, 40ish bhp ?!?! im guestimating my bhp to be about 260 with the z4 ecu as with age, power drops a bit etc.
So, even tho ive owned it 8 yrs, it was an everyday car, now more a short journey/weekend car,
oil changes every 5k and always well maintained, is it a gamble waiting for those big ends to pop at 98k on the rollers ?
cheers
Last edited by The Rig; 07 April 2013 at 09:16 PM.
#7
iguess its just pot luck then really LOL, ive always ran it on shell optimax/vpower and used decent oil etc, so i guess theres only one way to find out LOL,but as others have said, i couldnt afford the rebuild so for the sake of some better torque/bhp i might have a dead car, hmmmm
cheers
cheers
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#13
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
I've recently asked myself the same question with my Blob WRX Wagon PPP, she's on 94k and runs like a dream.
I could spend a grand and see circa 320/330bhp and slightly better mpg but are the gains worth the risk, i even have another built bottom end sat in the garage and spare block, pistons and rods and i can do it all bar the mapping myself, but i just can't be ar$ed with the hassle if it all goes pop, been there done that.
So i decided to leave it as is because in reality it does everything i need it to for road use and on the basis of "if it aint broke don't fix it"
I could spend a grand and see circa 320/330bhp and slightly better mpg but are the gains worth the risk, i even have another built bottom end sat in the garage and spare block, pistons and rods and i can do it all bar the mapping myself, but i just can't be ar$ed with the hassle if it all goes pop, been there done that.
So i decided to leave it as is because in reality it does everything i need it to for road use and on the basis of "if it aint broke don't fix it"
#17
Supporting Member
iTrader: (28)
The gearbox and engine should be easily able to cope with 300bhp.
If it's a 16g you should be able to get 320-330 out of her with little problem.
You could also consider fitting an STI top mount from one of the newage models if you want the car to remain a little more responsive. If you're not going all out power then you will likely find that a better combination.
Contrary to popular belief you don't always need a FMIC unless you're aiming for power in the late 300's.
If it's a 16g you should be able to get 320-330 out of her with little problem.
You could also consider fitting an STI top mount from one of the newage models if you want the car to remain a little more responsive. If you're not going all out power then you will likely find that a better combination.
Contrary to popular belief you don't always need a FMIC unless you're aiming for power in the late 300's.
#21
A custom re-map sounds great, but when you look at the cost and factor in a motor with 100k on the clock. A straight ECU swap looks a good route, especially when your not after mad power. Just wondered if anyones had this experience? As the chap who done this claimed to see a big improvement.
#22
Supporting Member
iTrader: (28)
Did they do a PPP for classics!?
Even if they did, as already stated, the PPP maps are generic and not customised on a per car basis.
As a result, they often don't make the claimed power.
I certainly wouldn't advise it unless you have the exact parts for the PPP from the same year and model, and even then I'd still go for a proper remap because it's just not worth the risk - you just don't know what you're getting on the ECU.
Get an ESL board fitted and have it mapped properly.
These are not cars you can scrimp and save on if you want them to run well, end of unfortunately.
Even if they did, as already stated, the PPP maps are generic and not customised on a per car basis.
As a result, they often don't make the claimed power.
I certainly wouldn't advise it unless you have the exact parts for the PPP from the same year and model, and even then I'd still go for a proper remap because it's just not worth the risk - you just don't know what you're getting on the ECU.
Get an ESL board fitted and have it mapped properly.
These are not cars you can scrimp and save on if you want them to run well, end of unfortunately.
#23
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I fitted a ScoobyECU to my MY93 WRX a number of years back, which upped the boost (TD05) from about 0.7 bar to around 0.95 bar. The change from the original map (can't remember vintage, but isn't a Z4 ECU) was fantastic - earlier spool-up and consistent pull all the way to the red line.
My car has limited mods - decat exhaust, but still running a standard air box and slanty top mount. Not sure on the current power, but the engine has well over 200,000 miles on the clock. So long as the engine is looked after, a mild remap shouldn't make too much difference - if you think of the percentage of driving time that you actually make use of the extra power / torque, it will probably be minimal.
My car has limited mods - decat exhaust, but still running a standard air box and slanty top mount. Not sure on the current power, but the engine has well over 200,000 miles on the clock. So long as the engine is looked after, a mild remap shouldn't make too much difference - if you think of the percentage of driving time that you actually make use of the extra power / torque, it will probably be minimal.
#24
Supporting Member
iTrader: (28)
Don't agree I'm afraid.
If you add mods to the car without a map going in too it can result in the car running rich or lean, fuel cut and all sorts of other problems, some mild, some obviously major but none of which you really want with a performance car.
The majority of people who live by the "my car runs fine" motto tend to find 6 months down the line the car develops rather worrying rattles in the engine bay.
A member of our group took the "won't bother with a map" route and swapped his ECU, then drove it around on full boost.
The car overboosted, there was det, and a few weeks later the engine sounded like a bag of spanners and he was posting asking what might be wrong.
Even a decat vs cat pipe makes a difference to how the car works and the ECU's can only adapt so much, especially the earlier ones.
When I first got her, my old WRX on a TD04 made 208bhp on the standard map with a centre section and backbox fitted, and then 248bhp after mapping on the rollers. I'd say 40bhp is a substantial increase and I was confident I could push the car to its full capability because it had been mapped with safety margins in mind.
If you don't map it, you have no idea what the ECU is doing, how much it may retard your car, and how much it can reign in the engine when it's unaware of the changes that have been made.
And that's why every time someone who says "my car's running strange / misfiring / behaving erratically / sounds odd" I ask "has it been mapped?"
If they answer no, I move on to the next thread....
It's a simple equation in my eyes. Do I spend £300 on a map or £2000 on a replacement engine?
If you add mods to the car without a map going in too it can result in the car running rich or lean, fuel cut and all sorts of other problems, some mild, some obviously major but none of which you really want with a performance car.
The majority of people who live by the "my car runs fine" motto tend to find 6 months down the line the car develops rather worrying rattles in the engine bay.
A member of our group took the "won't bother with a map" route and swapped his ECU, then drove it around on full boost.
The car overboosted, there was det, and a few weeks later the engine sounded like a bag of spanners and he was posting asking what might be wrong.
Even a decat vs cat pipe makes a difference to how the car works and the ECU's can only adapt so much, especially the earlier ones.
When I first got her, my old WRX on a TD04 made 208bhp on the standard map with a centre section and backbox fitted, and then 248bhp after mapping on the rollers. I'd say 40bhp is a substantial increase and I was confident I could push the car to its full capability because it had been mapped with safety margins in mind.
If you don't map it, you have no idea what the ECU is doing, how much it may retard your car, and how much it can reign in the engine when it's unaware of the changes that have been made.
And that's why every time someone who says "my car's running strange / misfiring / behaving erratically / sounds odd" I ask "has it been mapped?"
If they answer no, I move on to the next thread....
It's a simple equation in my eyes. Do I spend £300 on a map or £2000 on a replacement engine?
Last edited by MrNoisy; 08 April 2013 at 01:30 PM.
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