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2005 WRX running lumpy after new induction kit

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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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Default 2005 WRX running lumpy after new induction kit

After fitting my new Toyo Air Induction Intake kit to my 2005 WRX today the car is running lumpy - it struggles to tick over and when I touch the accelerator it tries to stall and sounds like it is sucking too much air in.

I can get it to higher revs but I have to keep blipping the accelerator bit by bit to do so.

Please help?

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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 01:58 PM
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Has the car been mapped with this induction kit on?
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:06 PM
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Not as of yet, just fitted a back box and the induction kit ? Strange .....
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:14 PM
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Did u disconnect the battery while fitting it ? I done my K&N the night before a remap , but i had to drive to the mapper and it was fine. Do a battery disconnect for a while and let the ECU re-adjust . . . . . . . . then get it mapped.

Get ready for the "put the panel filter back" replies too.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:15 PM
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Put the standard air box back on and fit a panel filter, it will run better and not suck hot air in from the engine bay (so better performance).

Tony
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Have you fitted the sensor on also? They should come with the mount

Fitted mine without a remap runs ok gives a flutter effect on drop of boost, but is flatter on the lower revs

Mine is going in for mapping in 2 weeks after a VF22 install that I'm not sure the car was ever mapped properly for.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:31 PM
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This is (probably) going to get ugly , but the standard airbox is just a plastic box sitting in the engine bay near the turbo etc with a scoop leading from above the rad picking up heat too. How is that any different to my scoop from my fog cover up into the cone filter seperated from the engine bay by a metal heat sheild ?

Does plastic resist heat better or something ?
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlySkunkWeed
This is (probably) going to get ugly , but the standard airbox is just a plastic box sitting in the engine bay near the turbo etc with a scoop leading from above the rad picking up heat too. How is that any different to my scoop from my fog cover up into the cone filter seperated from the engine bay by a metal heat sheild ?

Does plastic resist heat better or something ?
Probably because most induction kits just sit in the engine bay with no piping to the exterior of the car so suck hot air in from the engine rather than have a plastic pipe from the front fog light area to feed air to the induction kit, plus there is more protection on the standard air box to reduce the chance of contamination from any other external source or excess heat (it still circulates round the engine, a proper caik will be wing mounted but that comes with its own problems).

Tony
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Disconnecting the battery on newage scoobs has no effect on the ecu. I read elsewhere.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:43 PM
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shouldnt run this badly even without a re-map. check everything is secure and fitted correctly
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Sounds like you have a vac pipe still disconnected. Its probsbly sucking air staight into the manifold if you can hear it
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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The induction kit changes the air flow pattern so the maff wont be reading it correctly, The maff will need re scaling, I had one on a wrx and we plugged it in and it was at max correction as it was running lean so we threw the thing away and popped the OE air box back on and it was fine again.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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As mentioned above, pulling the battery does nothing, the airflow/timing learning is still stored on the ecu.
Best induction kit to fit is one that does not replace the maf tube as the maf is scaled for a certain amount of airflow downa certain sized tube, replacing it without rescaling the maf will cause unexpected running.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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did you fit the air flow meter in the correct way around?

plug points to the front of the car......

Simon
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Why did you fit an induction kit out of interest ??
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 05:39 PM
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I only ask about battery as it said in the K@N instructions to do it.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MattyB1983
Why did you fit an induction kit out of interest ??
I fitted because on my old cars it made a nice grunt Sound, however on the scoob you can hardly notice the difference I found
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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Mine gives louder spool noise , and on low boost gives a flutter.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by XDevil666
I fitted because on my old cars it made a nice grunt Sound, however on the scoob you can hardly notice the difference I found
Stick the original air box back on chap and fit a nice panel filter. If changing has made no difference to the 'noise' you wanted then at least the original airbox will rid you of running issues and possible maf issues in the future. The fancy induction kits (sometimes costing big bucks) make no difference to performance anyway buddy.
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Std airbox is good to 400 bhp, the induction has screwed tha maf output and the car is running lean, so don't drive it like that revert unless you are going to get a map sorted to compensate, then you won't be able to take it off again without another remap as the air box will screw things up in reverse.

What size bore does the maf tube have, can you post a link to the kit ?

cheers

bob
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Well people - I have a confession to make as I have cured the problem by fitting it correctly ( I had it the wrong way round)

Sorry everyone, appreciate your help

Pete
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by peteadr
Well people - I have a confession to make as I have cured the problem by fitting it correctly ( I had it the wrong way round)

Sorry everyone, appreciate your help

Pete
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