Poly bushing a whole car
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Poly bushing a whole car
Has anyone on here done this for a road car? Is it liveable or just a really hard ride? Will be doing the odd bushes but is it worth doing all.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
I had it done on my Focus St225. It made it feel like brand new again, all tight. it was lowered with whiteline f&r ARB's but wouldnt say it made it a harder ride from polybushing
#3
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Thread Starter
They also look a lot cleaner and tidier, and easier to fit. I put some on my e36 BMW when I had it n it felt a lot more planted. As long as they aren't like a solid ride. Roads round here are proper ****e.
#4
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If the ENTIRE car is fully poly bushed then it will make the car a firmer ride, 100% IMO
They are there as way of upgrade so to speak, the whole idea is to minimise flex,roll,lift etc
If roads are nice then maybe not so much more noticeable, but if roads are like you say "sh1te" then it will be more apparent, especially if coupled to arb's and suspension mods I.e coilovers or a lowered ride height.
I like the way it makes the car feel tho given the sense as said above the car is more tight, you can feel it more in the twisties and bends when pushing on, it doesn't make for an uncomfortable ride tho but i think you will find you will be able to notice the difference, but that's me
They are there as way of upgrade so to speak, the whole idea is to minimise flex,roll,lift etc
If roads are nice then maybe not so much more noticeable, but if roads are like you say "sh1te" then it will be more apparent, especially if coupled to arb's and suspension mods I.e coilovers or a lowered ride height.
I like the way it makes the car feel tho given the sense as said above the car is more tight, you can feel it more in the twisties and bends when pushing on, it doesn't make for an uncomfortable ride tho but i think you will find you will be able to notice the difference, but that's me
#7
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Thread Starter
It sounds like something worth while
Doing whilst since all of the subframes and tie arms are out being sandblasted and painting. The roads are shocking around the Blackpool/Lancaster area but the car will be
Doing 2000 mile a year tops when it's finished so I'll just pick which ones I drive on :P
Doing whilst since all of the subframes and tie arms are out being sandblasted and painting. The roads are shocking around the Blackpool/Lancaster area but the car will be
Doing 2000 mile a year tops when it's finished so I'll just pick which ones I drive on :P
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#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Without pricing it up properly, but looking at the prices individually I'd say it'll be about 400 quid for all of the bushes, front and back but without the arb ones. That's power flex bushes. Which I don't think is too bad tbh. Dunno what a garage would charge to fit them all. Probs need re-aligning afterwards as well. But they are nice to do ya self.
#20
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Really depedns on what you are after and how sloppy your car currently is:
I had the front end on my e46 BMW 325i done and I didn't like it. Basically every road vibration transmitted up the steering wheel, but not in a nice way. However turn-in and braking stability was transformed (used to be all over the place when braking hard). Although the old bushing were getting sloppy so new originals would have probably improved it anyway.
The problem is the roads by me are shyte...put it this way, My Golf: six years old and just 34,000 miles...and my front lower arm bushes are fecked - still MOT safe, and likely will be for another 6 years and 30K, but its just all gone sloppy. This is down to the salt drying out the rubber and the bumps shaking it to death. I'll likely need to replace the shocks as well to get it driving as-new again.
Inccidentaly I keep getting this question asked about the restoration of the front and rear suspension I'm doing on my Jag...everyone asks me in a expectant tone "are you going to polybush it?" I'm not so sure. Original Jag OE rubber is OK when new, aftermarket non-OE rubber is shyte. Polybushes is better but its extremely firm. Too firm for this type of car, I don't want it to feel like its using run-flat tyres (best way to describe it).
Pity there isn't anything with the compliance of rubber but with the durability of polyurethane.
New OE bushings and shocks will improve any ageing car back to as-new standards...do you need to improve it any more than that? Its a hard question and its down to your tastes and the roads you want to use it on.
The crux is you often don't realise how the cars ride/handling degrades with time until you replace everything or you happen to drive someone else's car thats in better condition.
I had the front end on my e46 BMW 325i done and I didn't like it. Basically every road vibration transmitted up the steering wheel, but not in a nice way. However turn-in and braking stability was transformed (used to be all over the place when braking hard). Although the old bushing were getting sloppy so new originals would have probably improved it anyway.
The problem is the roads by me are shyte...put it this way, My Golf: six years old and just 34,000 miles...and my front lower arm bushes are fecked - still MOT safe, and likely will be for another 6 years and 30K, but its just all gone sloppy. This is down to the salt drying out the rubber and the bumps shaking it to death. I'll likely need to replace the shocks as well to get it driving as-new again.
Inccidentaly I keep getting this question asked about the restoration of the front and rear suspension I'm doing on my Jag...everyone asks me in a expectant tone "are you going to polybush it?" I'm not so sure. Original Jag OE rubber is OK when new, aftermarket non-OE rubber is shyte. Polybushes is better but its extremely firm. Too firm for this type of car, I don't want it to feel like its using run-flat tyres (best way to describe it).
Pity there isn't anything with the compliance of rubber but with the durability of polyurethane.
New OE bushings and shocks will improve any ageing car back to as-new standards...do you need to improve it any more than that? Its a hard question and its down to your tastes and the roads you want to use it on.
The crux is you often don't realise how the cars ride/handling degrades with time until you replace everything or you happen to drive someone else's car thats in better condition.
Last edited by ALi-B; 31 December 2012 at 07:52 PM.
#21
Not done the whole car but have done the anti roll bar bushes front and rear and rear drop links
i found i had to lube them up,wahay, with copper grease as they creaked like buggery, the front ones especially, so this put me off doing the whole car
i found i had to lube them up,wahay, with copper grease as they creaked like buggery, the front ones especially, so this put me off doing the whole car
#24
Essex Area Moderator
iTrader: (7)
My chassis mods are the following.
Whiteline adjustable front sway bar
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline HD mount kit
Whiteline camber bolts
Whiteline rear diff locking kit
Whiteline roll centre adjustment kit
SD Motorsport solid rear diff mount
KW Variant 3 External reservoir coilover dampers
CDF billet front ARB drop links
CDF billet rear ARB drop links
CDF billet pitch stop
CDF billet anti lift kit
Super Pro poly lower arm bushes
Super Pro poly outrigger bushes
Super Pro poly gearbox cradle bushes
AS Performance delrin gear linkage bush kit
Noltec billet clubsport pillow ball adjustable topmounts.
Custom STi front strutbrace
Custom (track bias) geometry setup
STI8 Spec C steering rack on Whiteline steering rack bushes.
All of the above bushes have been supplied by Alyn @ AS Performance. I've used a mixture of Whiteline and Super Pro. None of them have given me any squeaks or rattles. My increased NVH is transmission whine.
A Subaru is a hardly a luxury saloon such as a BMW or Mercedes. They're driver focused performance cars. All of the poly bushes in mine have made the driving experience a tighter and more accurate one.
Whiteline adjustable front sway bar
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Whiteline HD mount kit
Whiteline camber bolts
Whiteline rear diff locking kit
Whiteline roll centre adjustment kit
SD Motorsport solid rear diff mount
KW Variant 3 External reservoir coilover dampers
CDF billet front ARB drop links
CDF billet rear ARB drop links
CDF billet pitch stop
CDF billet anti lift kit
Super Pro poly lower arm bushes
Super Pro poly outrigger bushes
Super Pro poly gearbox cradle bushes
AS Performance delrin gear linkage bush kit
Noltec billet clubsport pillow ball adjustable topmounts.
Custom STi front strutbrace
Custom (track bias) geometry setup
STI8 Spec C steering rack on Whiteline steering rack bushes.
All of the above bushes have been supplied by Alyn @ AS Performance. I've used a mixture of Whiteline and Super Pro. None of them have given me any squeaks or rattles. My increased NVH is transmission whine.
A Subaru is a hardly a luxury saloon such as a BMW or Mercedes. They're driver focused performance cars. All of the poly bushes in mine have made the driving experience a tighter and more accurate one.
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
A Subaru is a hardly a luxury saloon such as a BMW or Mercedes
Pretty much the same front suspension layout as a scoob or any other car with mc-pherson strut suspension, bar a ball joint for the front lower arm mounting instead of a bush. All the other rubberised mounting points on the front are pretty much the same.
Last edited by ALi-B; 01 January 2013 at 02:59 PM.
#27
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
That is a very nice list of chassis mods. Bet them coil overs set you back a lot. So you'd recommend the super pro
Bushes? Are the two piece ones?
Bushes? Are the two piece ones?
#28
Essex Area Moderator
iTrader: (7)
It was a e46 3 series M-sport. Not a flippin' 7 series (it was purple powerflex by the way)
Pretty much the same front suspension layout as a scoob or any other car with mc-pherson strut suspension, bar a ball joint for the front lower arm mounting instead of a bush. All the other rubberised mounting points on the front are pretty much the same.
Pretty much the same front suspension layout as a scoob or any other car with mc-pherson strut suspension, bar a ball joint for the front lower arm mounting instead of a bush. All the other rubberised mounting points on the front are pretty much the same.
I can only speak as I've found.
Carter.
Which exact bushes are you referring to?