Wont this car to last, so thinking of buying one of these waxoyl kits after my hols in 2 weeks. Just wondered if anyone on here has used them before, and how they rate them. Do they spray ok, i take it clear is used for internal and black for the underside. Thanks

 

Waxoyl is something from the 1960s intended to keep old ford Zephyrs from disappearing after three winters. It was passable then, but is rubbish. Believe me, I've tried it on various cars and all it does is dry up and crack, letting water underneath it. And it won't leach into joints either.

I'll grudgingly admit their black underseal is okay if you can't get anything else, but if you want to get into the 21st Century, you need to have a good look round here:

http://www.bilthamber.com/

Bilt Hamber's stuff may be more expensive than Waxoyl, but the primary difference is it actually works. It's protected my old Opel Manta for a number of years, and Mantas make Scoobies look like they're made of stainless steel when it comes to rust.

I hope this is of interest to you.

 

Clear waxoyl doesn't crack, or truly dry up, it's a solvent based wax, and it DOES leach into small joints.

I too have used it, and swear by it.

 

Like most coatings the key is in the prep and application. My 1996 Escort RS2K was treated at an early age and the underside condition is very good despite daily use. This was the best value for money I've ever spent on a car.

http://www.waxoylprofessional.com/?g...FaTHtAodrQgAYg

Apparently the professional waxoyl is different to the stuff you get from Halfords.

 

I used to think Waxoyl was great, but then I discovered the Bilt Hamber site after reading comparison reviews in Practical Classics and the like.

Having tried both, I guarantee you that once you've used Dynax S50, you'll never go back to Waxoyl. Waxoyl is like trying to pour thick gravy into the bodywork compared to the Dynax, which is similar to a thin oil in consistency.

If you use the BH aerosols, they come with a thin 2' long tube attachment with a turned brass fitting at the end which will go into every nook and cranny of the car and sprays in four directions at once. Try that with Waxoyl.

The clear Waxoyl I used on the join of the inner rear wings to the outer rear wings in the boot of my last Manta dried out after a year or so and had a crack running along its whole length. Its solvent is based on something akin to white spirit which evaporates off and leaves the waxy component to go hard. Then it cracks with the vibration of the car.

It's all down to cost I suppose, and Waxoyl would be better than leaving the bodywork unprotected, but if you're going to use something, why go for 1960's technology when there's 2000's technology on offer?

I know nothing of the Waxoyl Professional range, but I suspect the OP wants to do it himself, so it may not be available to him.

 

Lying under a car on Axel stands wondering where the product is going and spending 3 weeks picking said product of my hair doesnt really appeal to me anymore.
I have used many excellent bilt hamber valeting products and have no doubt that the rust treatment is top notch too. If I had a lift and something more substantial than rattle cans to apply it... I would give it a go.
I agree that some protection better than none.

 

Cheers for the replies, couple of sites to look around. I am just after a kit which will do all the car, and works.

 

The mess side of it is making me think should i take it somewhere to get done , but then i surpose many firms will charge too much.

 

I wish I had hair to pick the mess out of...!

The BH aerosols aren't that messy though, as with the tubes they're so easy to direct to where you want the stuff to go.

 

0k many thanks , i will look at there site. I dont have much hair to mess up too, so might be worth doing myself.

 

Sorry to harp on... Most of us spend hundreds on our cars but £300 professional underseal is seen as too expensive.

 

+1

 

If you can pick up a kit for £50 and its a fairly easy job to do , apart from being alittle messy. Then thats another £250 i could spend on my car.

 

You can buy this in clear or black, is the black the same, just thinking the colour black would look better under the car.

 

Can't understand this: Waxoyl is VERY runny, you sometimes need to give it a shake and then it's so runny it can go anywhere.

Mine came with a pressuriser and, yes, a 2 foot long wand with a nozzle on the end that sprayed in four directions, and would go into even tiny holes.

It's WAX, it sets stiff but NOT hard, it doesn't crack, or split.

Everything Osimabu says is 100% the opposite of my findings.

 

My Classic has been professionally waxoyl'd and would have to say is defo worth having done. Mine has not cracked or dryed up either.

Anyone know how often you are ment to re- waxoil ????

 

Not sure if the Waxoyl with Hammerite is different but can't fault the stuff. I have used the clear and the black. Yes, it's a bit messy but it's what DIY is all about.

The Eunos is 20 years old and the Waxoyl as been a godsend and the underside looks spot on. Like "alcazar" I like the stuff.

 

used Waxoyl on most of my cars , it is good stuff, and you can top it up every year so it doesn't dry out ,

best to heat the Waxoyl up in a bucket of hot water so it thins down , also realy you want to do it with car on a lift and using compressor and shutz gun to get best results.

 

I can only go on what I've found I'm afraid. Perhaps Waxoyl has changed since I last used it about seven years ago. That which I used on the Manta in 2003 had gone fairly hard and cracked by 2005. I tried warming it up with a hairdryer and it melted and the crack closed up again, but as you shouldn't have to do this because water would have got in, I looked for a better alternative.

But as I say, if you try Bilt Hamber's stuff, I guarantee you'll never go back.

 

Go on, admit it...you work for Bilt Hamber?

You ARE Bilt Hamber?

 

This is exatly how I apply mine, been using it for years on lots of cars & find it to be brilliant. I always give it a quick going over before the winter roads see any salt which takes about 10 minutes as long as it has had a thorough initial treatment. My 96STI is corrosion free & looks like new underneath eventhough it is driven all year round.

 

I honestly don't work for BH (I'm a plumber) but I wish I was on their commission!

And for Domestos 'Grot Buster' too, come to that (the solution to black mould in the sealant round your bath and shower, as long as you leave it on for a few hours - I must have sold them tons of the stuff).

 

Tip do not over heat it or when you under a car in confined space you end up getting high off the heat fumes . Im talking from personal experience . I was doing our old vw camper . I will be taking my scoobybaby to Bluebridge subaru to sort mine ready for winter

 

I'd recommend wearing a face mask to help filter out the fumes. Know what you mean about feeling high though.