f1_fan

iTrader: (9)

Posting this for Timmay as he can't for some reason post a new thread, only reply to existing ones. He will be along in a little while to post full details of the problem, but in essence he has just bought a modified Turbo 2000 and after getting a puncture was told his alloy had hairline cracks in it as his tyres are too low profile and stress the wheel.

Never heard of that so was wondering if any of the wheel experts on here could give him some advice.

Anyway over to you Timmay.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I'd be interested in what wheel and some pics.

Timmay Zoom Zoom

Hi all, Thanks for the post F1-Fan.

Yes so, I got a puncture yesterday so removed the wheel, I found a very small nail in the tyre. I did drive about 1 mile home on the puncture. Whoops!

Anyway, when I removed the wheel I found two slight cracks in the wheel on the inside outer edge at opersite sides. The wheels are 215/35/18.

The first garage I went to suggested that it could be repaired by welding up the crack. The second went on to say that the wheel is scrap, there is also not enough tyre on the rim being low profile, and on english roads this could keep happening.

I plan to go to an alloy wheel repair centre at lunch to get the wheel checked if it is possible to repair but my thoughts are, can and should these be repaired, and will it be safe afterwards?

The wheel makes are Unirace 7 twin spokes and I can't locate the same wheel at the moment to replace it.

You thoughts or comments would be greately appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

f1_fan

iTrader: (9)

Yeah I have asked him to sort us out a pic so we can see what wheel it is as I am guessing he won't know the name of the wheel as he is new to Scoobs.

classic Subaru Si

Never heard of the alloys, and cant find anything on the net about them either?? Could just be cheap alloys - might be better scrapping the wheels, as I doubt you'll find one on its own - would get about 50 - 70 quid just for the alloys, more if you remove the tyres yourself...

Tidgy

can you tell if they go all the way through or are they just surface finish?

personaly any doubt i'd get new, if it ment all 4 then so be it, it will fail when the most load is put on it,which is also when your gonna have the biggest crash.

Timmay Zoom Zoom

got some pics, but work stops me being able to put on flickr and the likes, can I e-mail to somebody for them to put up?

I am thinking that they maybe cheap alloys, never good to have on a performance car. i'll be checking the others when I get a chance. But it could be a case of getting shot before its too late!

Timmay Zoom Zoom

I found the wheel:

http://www.uniracingwheel.com/LensoP...4&ID=.0.15.100.

The make is either uniracing or Lenso RE30

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

VERY narrow spokes.
18's aren't the best for a classic, and need very low profile tyres, (that's the size you keep quoting Timmay, not the wheel size). The low profile means that there is little sidewall to flex, so shocks are transferred through the tyre to the rim and onwards into the suspension and bodywork.

And on UK roads, the garage may just be right.........

speedking

$1000

Timmay Zoom Zoom

Okay, been to alloy specialist, he suggests he can weld them up okay. But needs new tyre also so going to sell these wheels and get something more suitable for the car.

Anybody what these ones? What are the best value for money wheels to get for a 99 2000 Turbo? Anybody have any that they need to get rid of that are in good shape with good tyres. I think 17's would be better for me.

f1_fan

iTrader: (9)

In my opinion 17s are the way to go, but does your car have modified brakes? If so you need to make sure whatever you buy will fit over them.

Talk to Mags on here as he knows just about all there is to know about wheels for Scoobs

Timmay Zoom Zoom

Cheers chap, i'll speak to Mags!

stualex

iTrader: (3)

I've got 18" Compomotive MO6's on mine with 215 40 tyres. Although the wheels are heavy they are stupidly strong and as such I've had no problems with our ****ty roads.

On the other hand on my old ST200 I had 18" OZ Superleggera with 215 35 tyres and these bad boys cracked for fun, I had them welded a few times and each time they cracked was in a new place, not near the weld.

IMO if you want or need to run 18" try keep the biggest sidewall you can get away with but don't increase your rolling radius too much.

The Zohan

Yup, the tyre is part of the suspension and ultra low profiles (sidewalls) reduce the cushioning effect of the tyre putting more stress on the rim. Have a mate running 20" rims and 25 profile tyres on a RR-S and he has written off three alloys (last count) due to potholes and poor roads surface....some whels will handle this better than others, thin/intricate spokes and rims will not wear as well as thicker/stronger ones.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

OZ Superleggera i got there minted, have ripspeed alloys they cracked not good

M444GY

iTrader: (72)

spoken to and advised

f1_fan

iTrader: (9)

This thread is a great example of Scoobynet at its best

Timmay Zoom Zoom

I couldn't agree more, thank you all for your comments and advice.

Long live Scoobies and Scooby net!