Timing belt how to
03 March 2012, 10:41 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: North aYRSHIRE sCOTLAND
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing belt how to
Hi folks,
I have all the bits and am doing my timing belt on Monday night. Does anyone have a guide for a 2001 bugeye wrx?
Cheers
Dan
I have all the bits and am doing my timing belt on Monday night. Does anyone have a guide for a 2001 bugeye wrx?
Cheers
Dan
04 March 2012, 12:23 PM
#3
Remove air induction snorkle
Remove Plastic Guard above the alternator
Remove radiator exspansion bottle
Unclip cooling pan multiplugs (one on each side)
Unbolt the fans from the radiator and Manipulate top hose & lift out (can be a bit fiddley)
22mm socket and long bar on the crank bolt, Wedge behind passenger headlamp & flick the engine on the key very quick so it slackens the bolt.
Remove aux drive belts from front of engine. and lift up alternator and lock with the pinch bolt so its more or less out of the way.
Remove rh side Timing belt cover
Remove lh side timing belt cover
Remove center timing belt cover.
Re-use the crank bolt and screw back into the crank in order for you to be able to turn the engine over May need the use of a couple of washers to shim out if you wish.
Turn the engine in a clockwise motion until a Flat line on the crank sprocket is in line with the small grove on the oil pump where the crank sensor is located, Make sure the rh intake cam is lined up with the cutout in the rear of the timing belt cover and the two green lines on both the intake and exhaust cam are lined together in the middle.
Same on the lh side cams single mark to the top with the cutout in line with the cam sprocket and the two grean lines together on both pulleys.
Now you need to remove the pressure from the tensioner arm but method of lifting it up or gently levering with a small bar against the rear of the block I.e behind the tensioner, Using a small pin/ sowing needle (if thats what you have) roughly 1.5 mm thick there is a hole to insert this right through so it locks the tensioner.
Then remove the belt/ Check all idler pulleys for roughness and damage, fit the new belt taking note of the lines on the belt and the marks on the pulleys & direction of the belt, once happy remove the pin from the tensioner and rotate a couple of times to settle the tensioner and belt down.
Now this is complete you need to set up the belt guides, One ontop of the crank sprocket and three on the cams (Note rh intake cam doesnt have one) set the clearance around 1.5 mm usually the thickness of the cam belt box doubled over is your stuck will do the job, Reassemble the rest in reverse order that it came appart and the jobs a good one.
One thing to make sure of is the crank pulley, you'll need to sit someone in the car with it in gear and there foot firmly on the brake in order to be able to tighten it down.
Remove Plastic Guard above the alternator
Remove radiator exspansion bottle
Unclip cooling pan multiplugs (one on each side)
Unbolt the fans from the radiator and Manipulate top hose & lift out (can be a bit fiddley)
22mm socket and long bar on the crank bolt, Wedge behind passenger headlamp & flick the engine on the key very quick so it slackens the bolt.
Remove aux drive belts from front of engine. and lift up alternator and lock with the pinch bolt so its more or less out of the way.
Remove rh side Timing belt cover
Remove lh side timing belt cover
Remove center timing belt cover.
Re-use the crank bolt and screw back into the crank in order for you to be able to turn the engine over May need the use of a couple of washers to shim out if you wish.
Turn the engine in a clockwise motion until a Flat line on the crank sprocket is in line with the small grove on the oil pump where the crank sensor is located, Make sure the rh intake cam is lined up with the cutout in the rear of the timing belt cover and the two green lines on both the intake and exhaust cam are lined together in the middle.
Same on the lh side cams single mark to the top with the cutout in line with the cam sprocket and the two grean lines together on both pulleys.
Now you need to remove the pressure from the tensioner arm but method of lifting it up or gently levering with a small bar against the rear of the block I.e behind the tensioner, Using a small pin/ sowing needle (if thats what you have) roughly 1.5 mm thick there is a hole to insert this right through so it locks the tensioner.
Then remove the belt/ Check all idler pulleys for roughness and damage, fit the new belt taking note of the lines on the belt and the marks on the pulleys & direction of the belt, once happy remove the pin from the tensioner and rotate a couple of times to settle the tensioner and belt down.
Now this is complete you need to set up the belt guides, One ontop of the crank sprocket and three on the cams (Note rh intake cam doesnt have one) set the clearance around 1.5 mm usually the thickness of the cam belt box doubled over is your stuck will do the job, Reassemble the rest in reverse order that it came appart and the jobs a good one.
One thing to make sure of is the crank pulley, you'll need to sit someone in the car with it in gear and there foot firmly on the brake in order to be able to tighten it down.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post