Suspension Setup
26 February 2011, 12:49 PM
#1
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Suspension Setup
I've got about £400 to spend on suspension, i want 35-40mm drop with a firm ride that isn't too harsh. Shocks and springs. Don't really want coilovers as i won't actually ever get to use them properly
Car is a T Reg UK Turbo 2000
What do people recommend?
Car is a T Reg UK Turbo 2000
What do people recommend?
26 February 2011, 01:29 PM
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Its not too bad to drop them about 25mm or so but much more than that as Alcazar says you'll ruin the handling.
You can drop them more and improve the handling but it'll cost a fortune on suspension bits to do it right as you're in motorsport territory. Plus you'll be bottoming out over every speed bump you come across.
You can drop them more and improve the handling but it'll cost a fortune on suspension bits to do it right as you're in motorsport territory. Plus you'll be bottoming out over every speed bump you come across.
26 February 2011, 01:37 PM
#6
I have just uprated my suspension on my 2000 uk turbo to bilstein prodrive shocks and eibach springs
,cost less than £400 and that included having the rears overhauled by bilstein
. Have a good look around on pistonheads ,ebay,etc - these might be worth having a bid on as well 
,if you offer him £250 i am sure he would end the auction 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Just make sure you book in in for a geometry set up afterwards to make sure you dont wear out the inside/outside of your tyres
,cost less than £400 and that included having the rears overhauled by bilstein. Have a good look around on pistonheads ,ebay,etc - these might be worth having a bid on as well ,if you offer him £250 i am sure he would end the auction http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Just make sure you book in in for a geometry set up afterwards to make sure you dont wear out the inside/outside of your tyres
Last edited by midnight; 26 February 2011 at 01:41 PM.
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26 February 2011, 02:20 PM
#9
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Thats because its an ASTRA
Doubt GM spent a huge amount of money making them handle.
All too often in the time i have been reading threads on here do guys post up handling issues, which more often than not come down to dogy suspension "upgrading" efforts.....proceed with caution, would be my advise...
Yoju said you were gettin the car in March, which i assume is still the case. Drive it, might feel fine as is.....maybe spend that £400 on a full service given our harsh winter this year, THAT sounds a good investiment?
26 February 2011, 02:28 PM
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First step I would do is to have a 4 wheel alignment done and a check on the geometry settings and go from there, they might be able to dial in some fast road settings to help with handling.
That what I did when i had some Prodrive springs fitted and it was such an improvement over the standard settings.
That what I did when i had some Prodrive springs fitted and it was such an improvement over the standard settings.
26 February 2011, 02:29 PM
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That's because its an ASTRA
Doubt GM spent a huge amount of money making them handle.
All too often in the time i have been reading threads on here do guys post up handling issues, which more often than not come down to dodgy suspension "upgrading" efforts.....proceed with caution, would be my advise...
You said you were getting the car in March, which i assume is still the case. Drive it, might feel fine as is.....maybe spend that £400 on a full service given our harsh winter this year, THAT sounds a good investment?
Doubt GM spent a huge amount of money making them handle.
All too often in the time i have been reading threads on here do guys post up handling issues, which more often than not come down to dodgy suspension "upgrading" efforts.....proceed with caution, would be my advise...
You said you were getting the car in March, which i assume is still the case. Drive it, might feel fine as is.....maybe spend that £400 on a full service given our harsh winter this year, THAT sounds a good investment?
26 February 2011, 02:38 PM
#12
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Get something like the Eibach springs I had on my old T-plate UK turbo. These coupled with AGX KYB adjustable gas shocks and Whiteline front/rear droplinks made a night and day difference.
For your budget unless you buy second hand you'll struggle as the above cost me around £750 inc. fitting with the shocks being unused s/h jobbies. Get an adjustable rear anti roll bar and some decent springs which will lower your height a little and stiffen things up
26 February 2011, 04:02 PM
#14
BUT: if you want the car to handle better, rather than look pimped, ask on here.
First job is to replace all droplinks with solid ones, then replace all bushes with poly ones, then replace rear arb with a stiffer one, leave front alone.
Finally fit an anti-lift kit and spend £100 or so having the car's geometry done by a PROPER Scoob expert. I recommend either Carnetix, or Powerstation.
26 February 2011, 04:45 PM
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Yes, if you can get any, but any second hand stuff will be tired by now, or join a group buy for coilovers.
BUT: if you want the car to handle better, rather than look pimped, ask on here.
First job is to replace all droplinks with solid ones, then replace all bushes with poly ones, then replace rear arb with a stiffer one, leave front alone.
Finally fit an anti-lift kit and spend £100 or so having the car's geometry done by a PROPER Scoob expert. I recommend either Carnetix, or Powerstation.
BUT: if you want the car to handle better, rather than look pimped, ask on here.
First job is to replace all droplinks with solid ones, then replace all bushes with poly ones, then replace rear arb with a stiffer one, leave front alone.
Finally fit an anti-lift kit and spend £100 or so having the car's geometry done by a PROPER Scoob expert. I recommend either Carnetix, or Powerstation.
26 February 2011, 05:59 PM
#17
In the end, mate, what it comes down to is that IT'S YOUR CAR, YOU DO WHAT YOU WANT WITH IT.
We can only advise, from experience. You don't HAVE to take our advice: if you want a car with a loud dumpvalve, lowered sitting on 18's, then go out and do it.
It comes down to do you want it to perform, or do you want it to be looked at, since one is often exclusive of the other.
We can only advise, from experience. You don't HAVE to take our advice: if you want a car with a loud dumpvalve, lowered sitting on 18's, then go out and do it.
It comes down to do you want it to perform, or do you want it to be looked at, since one is often exclusive of the other.
26 February 2011, 06:06 PM
#18
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it indeed maybe my car, but you guys have all the advise and if your advising me on a vauxhall i'd tell you all where to, but this isn't what i know, you guys are the experts here, not me. At the end of the day i want safety and performance :-)
27 February 2011, 08:28 AM
#19
Some very good advise and sensible caution against lowering unless you're in it for the duration, but I'll add my 2c.
Main problem with lowering is bump steer. Driving on smooth tarmac road is fine, but as soon as you meet any kind of yump, bump or undulation the car will feel very unsettled, and most likely dart about, even with wheels lifting off the raod in some cases. There isn't enough damper travel left before hitting the bumpstops
Also with lowering comes the need for roll centre correction and anti-lift as your effective roll centre will be lowered to almost below the ground and might have some sideways migration too. This can create some strange handling characteristics, as well as the distance between the COG and RC being a bit on the high side, increasing the tendency to roll at the front and therefore a possibilty to hang onto the bumpstop on the outside front during corners.
Anyway you aren't in this situation. Is there any aspect of the cars handling you don't like or would like improved on?
I usually recommend a stronger rear adjustable ARB as this usually sorts out commonly experienced front understeer, as well as nicely improving turn-in, roll and overall grip level. Very big bang for buck improvement, and safe too
Main problem with lowering is bump steer. Driving on smooth tarmac road is fine, but as soon as you meet any kind of yump, bump or undulation the car will feel very unsettled, and most likely dart about, even with wheels lifting off the raod in some cases. There isn't enough damper travel left before hitting the bumpstops
Also with lowering comes the need for roll centre correction and anti-lift as your effective roll centre will be lowered to almost below the ground and might have some sideways migration too. This can create some strange handling characteristics, as well as the distance between the COG and RC being a bit on the high side, increasing the tendency to roll at the front and therefore a possibilty to hang onto the bumpstop on the outside front during corners.
Anyway you aren't in this situation. Is there any aspect of the cars handling you don't like or would like improved on?
I usually recommend a stronger rear adjustable ARB as this usually sorts out commonly experienced front understeer, as well as nicely improving turn-in, roll and overall grip level. Very big bang for buck improvement, and safe too
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