Gearbox removal - Total Impreza mag
08 January 2011, 05:40 PM
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Gearbox removal - Total Impreza mag
Has anyone got a copy of issue 9 (April / May 09 i think) Total Impreza mag?
Can someone scan the Gearbox removal guide and email it to me?
I'm fitting a new gearbox soon and I can't find my old copy, probably binned it
Cheers!
Can someone scan the Gearbox removal guide and email it to me?
I'm fitting a new gearbox soon and I can't find my old copy, probably binned it
Cheers!
08 January 2011, 05:59 PM
#2
here you go
First jack up the car, drain all of the oil out of the front diff and gearbox. There is a large sump plug underneath the front diff and a smaller plug along the bottom of the gearbox, looks like a small sump.
•Remove the top mount intercooler.
•Disconnect the battery.
•Remove starter motor.
•Remove clutch cylinder.
On the right hand side of the gearbox below where the clutch cylinder was, there should be a plastic/rubber cap, which you can’t really see. If it’s there, pop it off and now use, I think, a M6 or M8 bolt. In the hole that the cap was covering is a large pin with a threaded hole in the middle of it. Screw either the M6/M8 into this hole and pull the pin out.
There is a bit of metal that sticks out of the top of the gearbox that the clutch cylinder was touching, it has a square rubber gator round it. Pull this up as far as you can, this is the clutch fork and is dis-engaging from the clutch release bearing.
Remove the top dog bone engine mount and disconnect any electrical plugs that go down to the gear box, e.g DCCD.
Remove the exhaust heat shield (quite a few bolts) and remove the exhaust from turbo back.
Now remove the prop shaft, two bolts on the centre bearing and four that bolts the prop to the rear diff. The prop should now slide off the splines at the back of the gearbox. Careful, as there might be a trickle of oil come out.
Disconnect the gear linkage –two bolts- from the gearbox.
You now need to remove your front drive shafts, there is a roll pin that holds the inner CV joint to the stub shafts on the front diff. Rotate shaft round until you can get at these roll pins and knock them out.
Your drive shaft should now slide off the stub shaft. Move the shafts back out of the way.
Remove the gearbox cross member, approx. 6 bolts.
Now, with a trolley jack and a lump of wood, jack up the front of the engine on the crank pulley as far as you can so the whole engine and gearbox tilts back. This makes it easier for removing and re fitting of the gearbox.
Remove the remaining bolts around the outside of the bell housing around the gearbox.
Your gearbox should now be ready to come out. Please be aware it’s very heavy and will need three/four people to lift it if you’re doing this with the car on axle stands. Granted classic boxes are a little lighter than newage boxes.
You may need to jiggle the box a fair bit for it to slide out.
You’ll now see your clutch and flywheel. Place a large allen key socket or normal allen key between the splines of your flywheel and the top bolt hole for your starter motor so it jams the flywheel and stops it from turning.
Now remove the bolts for the clutch, which will then mean you can see the bolts for the flywheel.
Refit in reverse order of removal, remembering to torque all flywheel and clutch bolts.
Remember to use a clutch alignment tool when refitting the clutch.
Fit old or new clutch release bearing onto input shaft of gearbox and locate the legs of your clutch fork into the lugs of your release bearing. Put plenty of copper grease on these.
Refit large pin into the hole on the side of the bell housing through the hole in your clutch fork and remove the bolt. Again plenty of greece on the pin.
You should now be able to push the top of your clutch fork, which your clutch cylinder pushes against, to slide the release bearing backwards and forwards.
It is best to have someone to lean over the top of the engine to help guide the gearbox back home. Again, you may need to jiggle a bit.
Refitting is now reverse of removal. Lower the jack once the gearbox is bolted to the engine and fit cross member.
With your gearbox in place and bolted up tight, push the top of the clutch fork back towards the bulkhead of the car until you hear a click sound. This means the release bearing is now located onto the clutch.
Leave the fitting of the top-mount intercooler until last and once the car is on level ground, fill the gearbox and front diff with gear oil through the dipstick tube, remembering to fit the sump plugs first.
Your front diff and gearbox will fill at the same time.
Thats really all there is to it.
First jack up the car, drain all of the oil out of the front diff and gearbox. There is a large sump plug underneath the front diff and a smaller plug along the bottom of the gearbox, looks like a small sump.
•Remove the top mount intercooler.
•Disconnect the battery.
•Remove starter motor.
•Remove clutch cylinder.
On the right hand side of the gearbox below where the clutch cylinder was, there should be a plastic/rubber cap, which you can’t really see. If it’s there, pop it off and now use, I think, a M6 or M8 bolt. In the hole that the cap was covering is a large pin with a threaded hole in the middle of it. Screw either the M6/M8 into this hole and pull the pin out.
There is a bit of metal that sticks out of the top of the gearbox that the clutch cylinder was touching, it has a square rubber gator round it. Pull this up as far as you can, this is the clutch fork and is dis-engaging from the clutch release bearing.
Remove the top dog bone engine mount and disconnect any electrical plugs that go down to the gear box, e.g DCCD.
Remove the exhaust heat shield (quite a few bolts) and remove the exhaust from turbo back.
Now remove the prop shaft, two bolts on the centre bearing and four that bolts the prop to the rear diff. The prop should now slide off the splines at the back of the gearbox. Careful, as there might be a trickle of oil come out.
Disconnect the gear linkage –two bolts- from the gearbox.
You now need to remove your front drive shafts, there is a roll pin that holds the inner CV joint to the stub shafts on the front diff. Rotate shaft round until you can get at these roll pins and knock them out.
Your drive shaft should now slide off the stub shaft. Move the shafts back out of the way.
Remove the gearbox cross member, approx. 6 bolts.
Now, with a trolley jack and a lump of wood, jack up the front of the engine on the crank pulley as far as you can so the whole engine and gearbox tilts back. This makes it easier for removing and re fitting of the gearbox.
Remove the remaining bolts around the outside of the bell housing around the gearbox.
Your gearbox should now be ready to come out. Please be aware it’s very heavy and will need three/four people to lift it if you’re doing this with the car on axle stands. Granted classic boxes are a little lighter than newage boxes.
You may need to jiggle the box a fair bit for it to slide out.
You’ll now see your clutch and flywheel. Place a large allen key socket or normal allen key between the splines of your flywheel and the top bolt hole for your starter motor so it jams the flywheel and stops it from turning.
Now remove the bolts for the clutch, which will then mean you can see the bolts for the flywheel.
Refit in reverse order of removal, remembering to torque all flywheel and clutch bolts.
Remember to use a clutch alignment tool when refitting the clutch.
Fit old or new clutch release bearing onto input shaft of gearbox and locate the legs of your clutch fork into the lugs of your release bearing. Put plenty of copper grease on these.
Refit large pin into the hole on the side of the bell housing through the hole in your clutch fork and remove the bolt. Again plenty of greece on the pin.
You should now be able to push the top of your clutch fork, which your clutch cylinder pushes against, to slide the release bearing backwards and forwards.
It is best to have someone to lean over the top of the engine to help guide the gearbox back home. Again, you may need to jiggle a bit.
Refitting is now reverse of removal. Lower the jack once the gearbox is bolted to the engine and fit cross member.
With your gearbox in place and bolted up tight, push the top of the clutch fork back towards the bulkhead of the car until you hear a click sound. This means the release bearing is now located onto the clutch.
Leave the fitting of the top-mount intercooler until last and once the car is on level ground, fill the gearbox and front diff with gear oil through the dipstick tube, remembering to fit the sump plugs first.
Your front diff and gearbox will fill at the same time.
Thats really all there is to it.
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