D7AKE

I have an 05 plate wrx, what settings should I run in the snow?

Diff lock and front loaded?

Spoke to Subaru and they say run it in Auto...

Sorry if this has been asked b4, if it has a link would be good

Thanks in advance

Si

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Ok, confused here, you have a wrx or an STI?

On an STI you can run the car in auto but manual will give you more control over what your doing, if its thick snow and your taking it carefully but not much traction then one below lock, if your stuck then use lock, note that using lock will wind the diffs up, dont use it too much if you dont like the sound of what its doing, especially in corners!

Tony

D7AKE

Sori yes STi, they are all WRX's....doh

Thanks for the advice

stanmo

iTrader: (1)

With DCCD, is 'lock' all the way forwards ?

Auto seems ok, even up icy slopes, but it feels like it's shuffling between left and right, almost 'climbing' up inclines.

Subarus main problem in the snow are the drivers in front who abandon their cars or get stuck trying to get up slopes.

Scooby_CL

iTrader: (2)

yeah lock is all the way forward in manual mode. i'v used Full Lock to get out of some thick stuff and some hills, auto for daily driving and 65% rear just for ***** and giggles

stef_2010

iTrader: (3)

I've only got manual DCCD but I've had so much fun playing with the different settings in the snow, on private land of course

stanmo

iTrader: (1)

With DCCD, is 'lock' all the way forwards ?

Auto seems ok, even up icy slopes, but it feels like it's shuffling between left and right, almost 'climbing' up inclines.

Subarus main problem in the snow are the drivers in front who abandon their cars or get stuck trying to get up slopes.

stef_2010

iTrader: (3)

Yep, it should say on your dash does it not ?

You'd know anyway as the car doesnt seem to like it that much

daz1968

iTrader: (13)

i have just used my lock when going down hill on really slippy stuff, hoping the engine braking will work better in this, but not 100% sure tbh, left it in auto the rest of the time

greatgonzo

iTrader: (1)

Even in heavy snow auto for me, Tried lock which was no better so i leave mine in auto.

The king

I have the DCCDpro.com controller. Automode is fun, but manual is definately best. I found about 60% optimal, you will understeer if you dont flick it or go in slow, but once the tail is out, you just point and steer (front LSD).

In auto, its to easy to slide out, especially at low settings, when I let go of the gas. This is because the latheral G`s cause the controller to open the diff, thereby further oversteering the car. About 60% is a good street setting tough, but dont go too much into powersliding

G.Mac

iTrader: (2)

roll it all the way back then about 3 notches forward, auto the front end just wants to wash out all over the place

Graeme

GREGGYG

iTrader: (2)

I was disappointed with my car in the snow also, irrespective of whether I had the DCCD set to auto or manual/lock. Bridgestone RE 050 tyres. Felt like a rear wheel drive car!

Greg

The king

Does not sound like your DCCD is working. DCCD in "lock" feels nothing like a RWD car.

D7AKE

The Bridgestone tyres are rubbish in the snow I have just bought snow tyres but at £120 each they aint cheap, but they are sooo much better, than road legal cut slicks lol

GREGGYG

iTrader: (2)

Ive suspected something not right with my DCCD for a while now, not sure where to start. I know a fault light would only indicate an electrical rather than a mechanical problem.

D7AKE

I thought the DCCD was bullet proof unless ur a complete loon, and if it is fooked then it wont be cheap...

The king

Full "lock", full turn on a parking lot from stand still. Its hard not to stall the car if DCCD is working.

Electronics dont pick up all electronic problems.

GREGGYG

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

I will try that. I was going to ask what ways there are to check whether my DCCD is fully functional? I personally have a feeling that something metal (mechanical) may be worn, in my diffs, as I have just had the synchros replaced on my gearbox, 4,5 and 6, also had to have a new 2nd gear, so if these parts were worn, then what about my diff parts which could be worn?.

GREGGYG

iTrader: (2)

Mine's exactly the same, shuffling from left to right, I'm wandering if this is normal?

T5BNC

iTrader: (1)

I couldn’t agree more i have just yesterday replaced my rear tyres from Bridgestone 070's to match the front Goodyear f1's what a difference!!!

Regarding your snow tyres i presume you were able to buy tyres to fit 17's, i would love to know where you got these from as the guy who does my tyres is really struggling to find a manufacturer that do them ?

Frosticles

iTrader: (1)

Been playing with my DCCD in the snow. I have found it better to "Lock" the Diffs but beware when slowly turning on full lock

D7AKE

Ur not the Same Frosticles who is a member on Passion Ford ru?

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Thats why you dont use it too much when turning or you can apply the handbrake when you stop (as it releases the dccd from lock to open )

Tony

Frosticles

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully there is only one of me. Although I have only posted on there a few times LOL

D7AKE

I have seen u on Passionford I think, it must be u then..

Frosticles

iTrader: (1)

I only tend to go on when someone slags off the RSOC

The king

Like I said. Max DCCD output in manual, full turn from stand still. It should be easy to stall the car, cause the heavy resistance in the centerdiff is making it tough for the car to turn. On asphalt, its very hard not to stall my car. In snow, its more doable, but still tough. Either way, the difference between max and minimum in manual mode is so overwhelming, theres really no need for the steps below, unless you dont feel this difference, and wonder why.


DCCD troubleshooting:

You can measure both DCCD output and the coils in the DCCD. Expect about 2-4 OHMs between the two DCCD wires on the tranny. Infinite = Broken coil --- Zero = Short in either coils, or more probable, the wiring.

DCCD output in socalled full lock would be approx 7V DC, but it depends so much on the multimeter, I would rather suggest a Fluke or other Scoop. Expect a high 12V dutycycle on max.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

There should be no resistance in the centre diff, its locked, no resistance, the resistance is due to the limited slip differentials on the front and rear, these are what wind up as when the centre diff is locked, all 4 wheels are locked and the lsd's wind up causing your resistance when turning.

Tony

The king

Ehm. No.

First of all, the DCCD does not lock at all. Its a electromechanical limited slip differential (EM LSD). With the DCCD in manual, and all the way back, the diff is completely open, or in some cars it has a slight initial torque ("lock") to help stability. You still have your front and rear LSD`s, but as you all know, the car is now easy to turn, even in parking lots from standstill.

With the thumbwheel at 50%, DCCD output is 50%. In other words the output has approx 50% dutycycle. The diff now has 50% of its max capasity of "lock", and the car is already much tougher to turn.

With the thumbwheel at 100%, DCCD output is up to 100% dutycycle. Even at 100% dutycycle, the impreza DCCD is not locked at all. Why? Easy explained, because the DCCD centerdiff use a clutch type LSD with electromagnets to force them together. The more "lock", the tighter the diff. At 100%, the "lock" (or more correctly "resistance") in the diff is quite noticeable. At low speeds, and lots of traction, its not easy to overcome the clutches, and it actually feels locked.

Thats why you cant hardly turn the car anymore. The resistance in the centerdiff now tries to make both axles roll at the same speed. Indeed the introduction of front and rear LSD`s will to some degree, and depending on the type of LSD, make it even harder to turn, but the strong resistance of the centerdiff is what makes the major difference.

Also, most DCCD vehicles have suretrack diffs, which dont mess around too much in normal driving.


Oh, and did I forget to mention that the DCCD clutchpack can be worn out, and overhauled like a clutch type LSD diff? Oh, and the theoretical torque split is at all times 65/35, yet, in full "lock" and low torque and high traction conditions, the dynamic split should be closer to 50/50. Well, until you apply more then lets say 100NM of torque.