Rust on my disc
#1
Rust on my disc
Seems the discs that came with my car aren't of the highest standard and are rusting ..
Having quite open wheels means it looks **** .. so I want to clean it up and probably paint it silver .. ??
I dunno .. what's the best was to sort it ?
and how risky is it removing the callipers ? I figure I'll paint them too whilst I'm at it, but want to remove them to make sure its a better job than on my last car and to get to the full disc ..
I've read about the tension being important when you put them back ? is this a concern ? Am I likely to create a problem by removing and putting back ?
Having quite open wheels means it looks **** .. so I want to clean it up and probably paint it silver .. ??
I dunno .. what's the best was to sort it ?
and how risky is it removing the callipers ? I figure I'll paint them too whilst I'm at it, but want to remove them to make sure its a better job than on my last car and to get to the full disc ..
I've read about the tension being important when you put them back ? is this a concern ? Am I likely to create a problem by removing and putting back ?
#5
clean the rust off with wire wool, and use high temp paint, don't get paint on the disc face.
Calipers will need to be removed for proper renovation, good idea to get the pistons and seals while checked while they're off, system will need to be bled when refitted, Don't know what you mean by 'tension', but if the thought of bleeding seems too tricky, then don't do it yourself as imo don't **** with your brakes unless you know what you're doing.
Calipers will need to be removed for proper renovation, good idea to get the pistons and seals while checked while they're off, system will need to be bled when refitted, Don't know what you mean by 'tension', but if the thought of bleeding seems too tricky, then don't do it yourself as imo don't **** with your brakes unless you know what you're doing.
#6
clean the rust off with wire wool, and use high temp paint, don't get paint on the disc face.
Calipers will need to be removed for proper renovation, good idea to get the pistons and seals while checked while they're off, system will need to be bled when refitted, Don't know what you mean by 'tension', but if the thought of bleeding seems too tricky, then don't do it yourself as imo don't **** with your brakes unless you know what you're doing.
Calipers will need to be removed for proper renovation, good idea to get the pistons and seals while checked while they're off, system will need to be bled when refitted, Don't know what you mean by 'tension', but if the thought of bleeding seems too tricky, then don't do it yourself as imo don't **** with your brakes unless you know what you're doing.
eeek .. I thought I could just undo the two back bolts and take it off ? leave the pads in place ?
The bolts on the back need to be to a certain tension don't they ?
Arr screw it then .. I'll work around it
#7
I just jacked the car up ,wired brushed the disc and gave it a coat of black hammerite.I didnt bother taking the caliper off ,just movedthe disc round.That was about a year ago and still looks good
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#9
you can if you want .you may just need to take the pads out and just make sure you tie the caliper up so its not hanging by the brake hose.
As for the bolts on the back ****ing tight will be ample
#12
I think so cant really remember off the top of my head.make sure you use axle stands.
You will be happy with the results and lets face it theres not many jobs you can do on a subaru without it costing the earth
You will be happy with the results and lets face it theres not many jobs you can do on a subaru without it costing the earth
#13
The discs i bought had a similair outcome, what i did was to mask the caliper,mask the braking surface then i used heat paint and sprayed the hub part of the disc, then i used engine lacquer to really buff them up,looked very tidy.
you keep saying tension for the bolts, but its torque setting you mean.
you dont really need to torque them,as long as u are not 6 stone and have hands like a baby using human strength on the ratchet should be enough to tighten the botls back up if you do remove the caliper.
you keep saying tension for the bolts, but its torque setting you mean.
you dont really need to torque them,as long as u are not 6 stone and have hands like a baby using human strength on the ratchet should be enough to tighten the botls back up if you do remove the caliper.
#14
The discs i bought had a similair outcome, what i did was to mask the caliper,mask the braking surface then i used heat paint and sprayed the hub part of the disc, then i used engine lacquer to really buff them up,looked very tidy.
you keep saying tension for the bolts, but its torque setting you mean.
you dont really need to torque them,as long as u are not 6 stone and have hands like a baby using human strength on the ratchet should be enough to tighten the botls back up if you do remove the caliper.
you keep saying tension for the bolts, but its torque setting you mean.
you dont really need to torque them,as long as u are not 6 stone and have hands like a baby using human strength on the ratchet should be enough to tighten the botls back up if you do remove the caliper.
OK .. so its safe for me to just take them off ? they wont close up or anything ?
#15
yeah,you can remove the calipers and all is o.k,just dont press the brake pedal etc !
if you remove the pads,(its easier to remove pads then caliper than leave pads in as they can move and its harder to get the caliper back onto the disc) lay them out as they were fitted,so each pad gets fitted to the same side of the disc it was on etc.
if you remove the pads,(its easier to remove pads then caliper than leave pads in as they can move and its harder to get the caliper back onto the disc) lay them out as they were fitted,so each pad gets fitted to the same side of the disc it was on etc.
#16
yeah,you can remove the calipers and all is o.k,just dont press the brake pedal etc !
if you remove the pads,(its easier to remove pads then caliper than leave pads in as they can move and its harder to get the caliper back onto the disc) lay them out as they were fitted,so each pad gets fitted to the same side of the disc it was on etc.
if you remove the pads,(its easier to remove pads then caliper than leave pads in as they can move and its harder to get the caliper back onto the disc) lay them out as they were fitted,so each pad gets fitted to the same side of the disc it was on etc.
ok cool, will give it a go .. if I die I'm haunting you ..
#23
No, I've finished and I am actually quite pleased with the results ..
Shame I now don't have time to actually wash the car .. but that's the difficult bit done ..
I had one silver calliper and 3 old black ones, I now have 4 shiny black ones .. and no rust .. Will post photos when it gets light tomorrow
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