BLU

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys, looking to buy a Classic UK turbo for the missus and have a few I'd like to go and view.
Question; one of the cars in question is a '99 Treg but has 130000 miles and is about to run out of T&T. What dya reckon it would be worth without its MOT and if it had one put on?? Or should I avoid like the plague? The guy seems genuine and it looks well looked after.

Cheers....

dabow

iTrader: (19)

mine is a uk 2000, has 130 odd k on the clock
and runs a dream at the moment

with how old these classics are, alot of them will be high miles mate.
also depends if the car has been looked after, but its the same with every car.

theres good ones and bad ones.

EddScott

As above really. There are good ones and bad ones.

When I changed the front seats in my first classic the guy came in his. He'd had it since new and it had done 170K. Could not believe it, it was in great condition - not mint obviously but not 170K.

He also said it was on the OE clutch too and his wife backed him up. Its what he said anyways.

dabow

iTrader: (19)

the thing with these scoobs, they dont seem to rust half as much as say a ford/vauxhall ect.
so if anything goes, its normally the engine.

which are not that exspencive. and again, look after them, they will last years

mgcvk

I would definitely want an MOT on it before buying, you don't want any extra expense or surprises at test time.

G-string

iTrader: (1)

id say that due to the nature of these cars you buy with your eyes open, they are expensive to run so you would expect to see a lot of receipts. Most owners would look after their cars one of my mates has a 145k v reg classic and its not mint but looks more like 45k and is sound mechanically. I wouldnt let it put me off at the right price that is.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

As a GENERAL rule (flamesuit on) the import engines give up just before 100k and the UK cars at around 130k. Mine has done 155k and I have a spare engine in the garage waiting for the inevitable. 5000 mile oil changes (possibly involving some voodoo depending on your beliefs ) a must to ensure longevity.

Also mine has had a new set of shocks, about £400 plus fitting, 2 gearboxes and 1 clutch.

Wife has blown 2 engines in hers (big ends) Original engine around 130k

In addition turbos go with age. Look for smoke when accelerating after prolonged periods of idling.

Check the rear wheel arches and the area where the front/rear screens meet the roof for rust (or cheap repair, they don't last)

Radiators and top hoses are a known weak point on poorly maintained classics

If the heater suddenly goes cold during test drive then suspect head gasket (tho the heaters in these never get foot burning hot like european cars)

The model you are looking at has the later 4 pot calipers, a definite improvement, but check for brake judder when the brakes are hot, a sign off sticking pistons. Godspeed do stainless overhauls for around £250 IIRC. Goodridge hoses increase the feel at around £50 plus fitting.

Rattling from the rear will be drop links around £100 fitted.

In short, get him to MOT it, then negotiate from there.

Good luck

classic Subaru Si

If nothing is wrong with it, why doesn't the guy stick a ticket on it for 12 months for the sake of 50 odd quid? He's never gonna get a good price for a Subaru with no mot. I wouldn't touch it!

rossyboy

iTrader: (8)

Apart from the rear arches, which will effectively write off some old classics if they are bad enough, due to lack of spare panels.

BLU

iTrader: (27)

Some interesting points there guys.

I have an MY97 which is on 93000 miles and runs like a dream. Only thing it'll need soon I reckon is a clutch, not exactly difficult to change.

Obviously my missus will be driving it most of the time so won't really get 'cained' so to speak. I reckon that providing its been looked after and as said has lots of receipts and/or SH then it must be worth a look. As also mentioned you can have cars that are abused and have engine failure early on yet some can sail upto 150k+ with no problems!!

MOTing is no issue for me as I'm mechanically minded and know what to look for so could negotiate good deal if its in good nick.

Anyone any idea what to value one at with no MOT if well looked after and on 130K?

dabow

iTrader: (19)

mines a uk 95 classic, not one bit of rust at all.
again, if looked after there very good

alot of mates havenot much problems with rust either

BLU

iTrader: (27)

Easy to repair though, providing they not too far gone, in which case I'd run away!!

When I resprayed mine and considering its over 13 years old I only had two very small repairs to do on the rear of the sills only beacause water sits in between the plastic skirts and the metal sills!! Was well chuffed thats all it needed!!

dabow

iTrader: (19)

another thing, the import wrx to the uk are not much differnce.
the problem if the fuels

imports are set to 103ron fuels, bring them over here with out a map
and they can be damaged due the the wrong fuel used thus not lasting long, uk ones are fine with 97ron super, thus lasting a little longer

Rikimaru

They are run on 100 Ron in Japan, not 103. Would agree though that the quality of fuel and not mapping to suit is probably the biggest factor in import engines letting go. Run mine on 99 ron plus octane booster at the moment but will be mapping for 99 ron soon.

BLU

iTrader: (27)

That reason and the fact that insurance is dearer on jdm cars is why we're looking at UK spec cars.

wrx287

iTrader: (8)

My classic is on 150k+ Still on origianal clutch,turbo ect. Depends how they have been looked after. Definately would want an MOT though.

dabow

iTrader: (19)

ive always been told there 103ron
it was off here to ages ago, and seen a site also saying the same thing

or well, another thing learnt