DCCD - trying to find the perfect setting
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DCCD - trying to find the perfect setting
I know there must be hundreds of posts on this subject but after reading so much on the topic i'm still a little confused.
I tend to leave it in the auto mode but i'm still getting minor jerking at low speeds. Full lock sounds like something about to fall off from underneath the car! but the manual says this is nothing to worry about.
The only manual setting which seems to work fine at low speed are the bottom 2 on the dash indicator (dial wound towards the rear, green I think) but i've read that when stopped at lights or parked it shouldn't be on those settings, this is what confuses me.
I'd like to leave it there but not sure if its ok to do so.
Can someone explain?
thanks
I tend to leave it in the auto mode but i'm still getting minor jerking at low speeds. Full lock sounds like something about to fall off from underneath the car! but the manual says this is nothing to worry about.
The only manual setting which seems to work fine at low speed are the bottom 2 on the dash indicator (dial wound towards the rear, green I think) but i've read that when stopped at lights or parked it shouldn't be on those settings, this is what confuses me.
I'd like to leave it there but not sure if its ok to do so.
Can someone explain?
thanks
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There is a very good thread in the technical archive posted by Johnfelstead which explains how the dccd works, but a quick sumary is that the centre diff has several settings, from open (first green) all the way to lock with varying stages inbetween.
There is no problem leaving the diff open whilst parked/stopped etc you can even leave it locked (though that isnt advisable during normal driving conditions), what your basically doing is going from all 4 wheels being independently flowing to locking all to the same rotation (in stages).
Tony
There is no problem leaving the diff open whilst parked/stopped etc you can even leave it locked (though that isnt advisable during normal driving conditions), what your basically doing is going from all 4 wheels being independently flowing to locking all to the same rotation (in stages).
Tony
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What model car do you have? A JDM I assume from your username.
Unless you are driving for a particular purpose i.e snow or deliberate drifting then I'd leave it in automatic. The computer can react quicker than you can, particularly when you aren't expecting it.
If you are driving on a low traction surface then put it in manual and wind it all the way forward. If you prefer a more tail-happy ride then wind it all the way back.
With it wound all the way forward the ability for the wheels to travel at different speeds is reduced and therefore your turn-in will be effected. The car will want to go in a straight line. The opposite with the diff wound back, it will be more responsive when turning.
That is the non scientific simple version.
The clunking is nothing to worry about, it's a bit disconcerting but quite normal. I wouldn't really try any low speed manoeuvres (parking) with the diff wound forward though, flick it back to auto.
There is a video about somewhere which shows an overlay of a car being driven with the diff on auto, lock & open.
Unless you are driving for a particular purpose i.e snow or deliberate drifting then I'd leave it in automatic. The computer can react quicker than you can, particularly when you aren't expecting it.
If you are driving on a low traction surface then put it in manual and wind it all the way forward. If you prefer a more tail-happy ride then wind it all the way back.
With it wound all the way forward the ability for the wheels to travel at different speeds is reduced and therefore your turn-in will be effected. The car will want to go in a straight line. The opposite with the diff wound back, it will be more responsive when turning.
That is the non scientific simple version.
The clunking is nothing to worry about, it's a bit disconcerting but quite normal. I wouldn't really try any low speed manoeuvres (parking) with the diff wound forward though, flick it back to auto.
There is a video about somewhere which shows an overlay of a car being driven with the diff on auto, lock & open.
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#7
I have a manual dccd, but just leave it fully open all the time unless things get greasy/pretty wet/snow etc in which case I nudge it up to the second green/just below the orange indicator. Fully locked is only necessary for getting going is snow or whatever - as soon as you're moving wind it back. Won't damage things driving like that but makes the handling far worse and scubs tyres as soon as you're off a straight line.
Works well like that even with well over 400bhp in a classic
Works well like that even with well over 400bhp in a classic
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Thanks for replies guys....its cleared up alot of confusion but one last question
Does Diff Free mean winding the dial back into the green or setting it to auto?
Does Diff Free mean winding the dial back into the green or setting it to auto?
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thanks
i've just noticed a light knock when coming off the gas at slow speeds. is this something to worry about?
I'm begininng to hate dccd
i've just noticed a light knock when coming off the gas at slow speeds. is this something to worry about?
I'm begininng to hate dccd
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