tec know how?
25 October 2009, 06:31 PM
#2
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short engine - is the bottom end only, ie. no heads
long engine - engine with heads included
2.0 litre - illedgidly will rev better than the larger displacement
2.5 litre - will generally produce more torque with a suitable turbo
2.2 stroker kit - best of both worlds but generally more expensive to build
long engine - engine with heads included
2.0 litre - illedgidly will rev better than the larger displacement
2.5 litre - will generally produce more torque with a suitable turbo
2.2 stroker kit - best of both worlds but generally more expensive to build
25 October 2009, 08:13 PM
#4
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2.1 - spools the turbo earlier, gives more low end torque, more power and costs about the same as a built 2.0
IMHO
dunx
2.1 - spools the turbo earlier, gives more low end torque, more power and costs about the same as a built 2.0
IMHO
dunx
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25 October 2009, 09:29 PM
#9
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I can't say for sure because i've never tested it but long stroke engines are usually more torquey and less revy.
Its because they have relatively smaller valves so can't flow as much air. Also the piston has to move further and thus faster per stroke making it less able to rev.
Thats how I understand it anyway
Its because they have relatively smaller valves so can't flow as much air. Also the piston has to move further and thus faster per stroke making it less able to rev.
Thats how I understand it anyway
26 October 2009, 11:19 PM
#12
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IMHO
built 2.0 - strong and revvy
built 2.1 - more bottom end torque + still revvy
built 2.35 - best all round track/race motor (?)
built 2.5 - best BIG bhp/torque motor
tickled 2.5 - best road engine (?)
3.6 TT Tribeca lump ? who knows
dunx
built 2.0 - strong and revvy
built 2.1 - more bottom end torque + still revvy
built 2.35 - best all round track/race motor (?)
built 2.5 - best BIG bhp/torque motor
tickled 2.5 - best road engine (?)
3.6 TT Tribeca lump ? who knows
dunx
27 October 2009, 12:39 AM
#13
There is also a 2.65 built bottom end using the standard length rods and a version 9 crank. Still very revvy but shedloads and shedloads of torque and best for bigger laggy turbos that suffer from compressor surge now and again. Bigger turbos won't be quite so laggy trying to fill up 2.65Ltrs.....oh yeah, and no more compressor surge!! 
27 October 2009, 08:58 AM
#15
2.65+ conversions are pretty rare but i know of an engine builder doing some development with bigger displacement than the usual 2.5L.
Generally speaking if you want bigger than that i know of some H6 3.0L+ conversions in the USA. That's a lot of weight over the front axle though.
Generally speaking if you want bigger than that i know of some H6 3.0L+ conversions in the USA. That's a lot of weight over the front axle though.
27 October 2009, 08:59 AM
#16
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2.1 is EngineTuner territory, others can supply too.
2.5 is expensiveif fully built, everybody has one....
2.65+ is astronomically expensive.
All IMHO
dunx
P.S. Scooby 2.5 has a larger bore AND a longer stroke, so breathes o.k., but is more about torque than revs, unless you get a billet crank == £'s.
2.5 is expensiveif fully built, everybody has one....
2.65+ is astronomically expensive.
All IMHO
dunx
P.S. Scooby 2.5 has a larger bore AND a longer stroke, so breathes o.k., but is more about torque than revs, unless you get a billet crank == £'s.
Last edited by dunx; 27 October 2009 at 09:00 AM.
27 October 2009, 09:28 AM
#17
What kills most scoobys young or old is high revs, billet crank or no billet crank. Those that don't realise this and hold those high revs for too long inevitably experience the BIG BANG!!
Most average modified scoobs make peak power way before the redline no matter how much boost you hold to the redline so short shifting is the best way to save your engine and keep it in the sweet spot!!
Most average modified scoobs make peak power way before the redline no matter how much boost you hold to the redline so short shifting is the best way to save your engine and keep it in the sweet spot!!
02 November 2009, 11:28 AM
#30
If you want to keep your costs right down DIY!! Then when you've cocked it up because you did something wrong due to lack of experience you can just pay the same again, DIY and **** it up once more. 
Stick with an experienced and reputable builder, pay the money first time around and save yourself the grief!! Any builder worth his salt will cast iron guarantee their work and not try to squirm out of said guarantee by putting the blame on you when the engine goes pop shortly afterwards!! It happens so often and this is from so called reputable engine builders with bigger egos than their bank balances. You almost have to threaten them with court action and shaming on Forums before they back down and honour the gurantee. Some of the stories i've heard now from customers beggar belief.
There are probably only 2 or 3 builders in the UK i would even trust with building an engine for me because not only do they really know exactly what they're doing and carry out rebuilds in well lit and very clean and crap free environments, but should anything go wrong during the guarantee period and generally a short time outside the guarantee period, they will just say....bring it down to me and i'll sort it out, no bother!!
Thankfully these builders guarantees are rarely envoked because they did a proper job in the first place!! Choose carefully who you go to!!
Stick with an experienced and reputable builder, pay the money first time around and save yourself the grief!! Any builder worth his salt will cast iron guarantee their work and not try to squirm out of said guarantee by putting the blame on you when the engine goes pop shortly afterwards!! It happens so often and this is from so called reputable engine builders with bigger egos than their bank balances. You almost have to threaten them with court action and shaming on Forums before they back down and honour the gurantee. Some of the stories i've heard now from customers beggar belief.
There are probably only 2 or 3 builders in the UK i would even trust with building an engine for me because not only do they really know exactly what they're doing and carry out rebuilds in well lit and very clean and crap free environments, but should anything go wrong during the guarantee period and generally a short time outside the guarantee period, they will just say....bring it down to me and i'll sort it out, no bother!!
Thankfully these builders guarantees are rarely envoked because they did a proper job in the first place!! Choose carefully who you go to!!
Last edited by scoobiewrx555; 02 November 2009 at 11:29 AM.