v-ltd box in uk 2000
#1
v-ltd box in uk 2000
hi there ive tuned my uk 2000 to 300bhp i want more but my box prob wont take it... so ive picked up a v-ltd box diff and shafts just wanted to know if it will drop straight in with no probs ie speedo drive and also how hard is it to connect up the dccd?? many thanks danny
#2
Umm, possibly academic now but that might not have been the best choice given what you want to do. If it's a classic 'box, especially if it's a 752, it won't be particularly more able to cope with more power than the standard UK gearbox. And, the short ratios might not suit your engine as well, depending on how it's tuned.
Newage WRX box might have been a better option. Same ratios and final drive, so no need for a diff swap, and a bit more breakage resistant than the late classic boxes.
Anyway, as far as fitting is concerned, assuming the new bits you've got are out of a version 5 or 6 (i.e. 754 casing) or a version 4, the box should be a straight drop-in, but you'll need to change the rear upright/hub/handbrake/brake assemblies to match the bigger R180-type shafts.
If it's a version 3, then R160 rear diff so no need to swap the uprights, but version 4 and earlier have the 752 type box, which isn't as robust as what you have, assuming your front bumper means a '99 or '00 car.
Connecting the DCCD is pretty simple assuming you have the bits - loom, thumbwheel, controller and an STi instrument cluster with the fairy lights. If you don't, it gets more complicated - to the point that the easiest way is likely to be with an aftermarket controller.
Newage WRX box might have been a better option. Same ratios and final drive, so no need for a diff swap, and a bit more breakage resistant than the late classic boxes.
Anyway, as far as fitting is concerned, assuming the new bits you've got are out of a version 5 or 6 (i.e. 754 casing) or a version 4, the box should be a straight drop-in, but you'll need to change the rear upright/hub/handbrake/brake assemblies to match the bigger R180-type shafts.
If it's a version 3, then R160 rear diff so no need to swap the uprights, but version 4 and earlier have the 752 type box, which isn't as robust as what you have, assuming your front bumper means a '99 or '00 car.
Connecting the DCCD is pretty simple assuming you have the bits - loom, thumbwheel, controller and an STi instrument cluster with the fairy lights. If you don't, it gets more complicated - to the point that the easiest way is likely to be with an aftermarket controller.
#3
thanks for that you really know your subarus the box is complete with all you mentioned in your reply like thump control,ecu,wiring,diff, but no clocks with the dccd lights also the car this was removed from was a n-reg v-ltd import so am i right in thinking its a version 2 ? many thanks again for your help on this
Last edited by danny-goddard; 24 August 2009 at 08:00 AM.
#4
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Slightly off topic but would a 5 speed gearbox from the 2.5 wrx (05 on I think) fit a classic? They're supposedly able to cope with 400lbs because subaru beefed them up a bit due to going from 2.0 to 2.5.
#6
also the car this was removed from was a n-reg v-ltd import so am i right in thinking its a version 2 ? many thanks again for your help on this
So, best thing to check is the gearbox code number - alphanumeric sequence begning "TY...." on a sticker usually attached to the top of the bellhousing near where the starter would go on.
The downside of this is that if it is an early 752 case STi box you've got, you've taken a bit of a wrong turn, at least re. your original intent to get something more robust than what's in your car at the moment. And that's before considering whether the resultant gear ratio changes and fitting issues cause you a problem.
First thing to do before going any further would be to decide whether, all things considered, you still want to fit it.
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