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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Default Fitting new suspension

Not sure if I've put this in the right place or not, maybe should have put it in the suspension section.

Anyway, gona be fitting my new springs at the weekend, (hopefully) and was just wanting to know if I have to dismantle the brakes in order to get to the bottom two shocker bolts or if I can get away with leaving the brakes intact and get round behind them and the disc?

Would make the whole job a bitty quicker.

Cheers.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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They can all stay on mate, its a really easy job,
Mark the bottom bolts before you remove them,
The brake flexi holders flick out with a screwdriver.
3 top bolts and bobs your uncle.
The only time consuming part is stripping the back seats out,
When you come to compress the springs, mark a straight line from the damper to the top mount so everything goes back together lined up

Also, a little tip. If you can, get some rubber hose to go around the lower part of the spring coil where it sits in the damper, as they can knock otherwise.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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Nice one Matt cheers. So the brakes can all stay together on the disc and I will be able to get behind it all to undo the bottom bolts? What do you mean about marking the bottom bolts though? Are they different lengths or something?

Also any tips on how to get the back seats out? I'm assuming its just the back part I need to remove, not the part you sit on. But you know what they say about assumptions!

I've gone for Tein springs which I think have a rubber sleeve on them anyway, but a piece of hose wouldn't hurt. I've also got some 4 or 5mm rubber matt to put on the bottom of the strut too just for extra deadening.

Cheers

Jonny.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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Bottom bolts set the camber so undo the nuts without turning the bolts. Mark the position of the bolts first as said above.

Rear seats... two bolts to take the bench seat out first, then four bolts at the bottom of the back rest. They are hooked in place too so don't just start yanking at them once the bolts are out.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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Ah I see, got ya. Thanks.

After the job is complete is it necessary to get the geometry all set up at a specialist, or not really that important at this stage. Anti lift kit etc will be added one day but not in the near future.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Lowering the car will increase negative camber which will affect the toe angles of the front and rear axles, if you fitting the anti lift kit soon, i'd get it done after that

Sorry bud, didn't read your post properly. I'd get it done, as you may not know if it was correct before you lower it.

Last edited by mattwrxCS; Oct 2, 2008 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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I suppose it would just mean I'd be scrubbing tyres if I didn't get it done, as I say, anti lift kit won't be going on for a while yet.

Doesn't cost that much though. I wonder if my local dealer could do it, it is a 240 mile round trip to Perth for me to go to AWD Motorsport otherwise.

Last edited by Meallbhan; Oct 2, 2008 at 09:31 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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If your interested ,i've got a group buy going on at the mo for rear camber bolts,which help get the rears sorted when getting the geo sut up.
https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...delivered.html

Mit
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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Thanks mit, have put a post on your thread.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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I have fitted Teins to 2 newage cars and the Brown rubber sleeve included is more than enough. Anymore rubber under the springs could cause issues as they may not seat correctly.

To add to other advice given, ensure you loosen the strut top nut a touch while the car is on all 4 wheels as it is far easier that way.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bob r
I have fitted Teins to 2 newage cars and the Brown rubber sleeve included is more than enough. Anymore rubber under the springs could cause issues as they may not seat correctly.

To add to other advice given, ensure you loosen the strut top nut a touch while the car is on all 4 wheels as it is far easier that way.

Thanks, good tip about the top nuts The brown rubber sleeve already on the springs is not at the very end of the coil but maybe 1 wind up, it was the same on the Eibach springs so I'm assuming they are meant to be where they are as came from the factory to stop the coils knocking on eachother, instead of being at the bottom where the spring sits on the strut.
I was going to use some rubber mat here which should mould into place so its not metal on metal. Either that or some garden hose but not both. So you reckon thats not a good idea? Cheers.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Meallbhan
Thanks, good tip about the top nuts The brown rubber sleeve already on the springs is not at the very end of the coil but maybe 1 wind up, it was the same on the Eibach springs so I'm assuming they are meant to be where they are as came from the factory to stop the coils knocking on eachother, instead of being at the bottom where the spring sits on the strut.
I was going to use some rubber mat here which should mould into place so its not metal on metal. Either that or some garden hose but not both. So you reckon thats not a good idea? Cheers.
I have a crap memory but there is possibly a rubber moulded plate that sits on the strut platform which your springs rest onto to avoid the metal on metal.
If no rubber insitu then nothing wrong with the hose you mention.,
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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 12:07 AM
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