Engine Oil
#1
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Engine Oil
I've recently had the car serviced by Subaru and they used Shell Helix Plus 10W/40, does anyone know if this is semi or fully synthetic for when I top up?
Cheers.
Cheers.
#2
Last edited by stiler83; 13 September 2008 at 01:08 PM.
#3
if you drive your car like you stole it, with that oil expect an engine rebuild very soon. Castrol RS 10/60, 10-40 the 40 is to low and will brake down and fail along with your engine.
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Cheers guys. Thats interesting that Subaru would use a **** oil. The car gets a hard drive every now and then but I treat it with respect. So are you saying I should be using a 10/60 oil. Does it matter if it fully or part synthetic?
#5
There's nothing wrong with it, you just have to use your common sense. The harder you drive the more frequent you would want to change the oil&Filter. Granted there are better high performance oils out there but no need to go over reacting and saying the engine is going to blow. If you are looking at recommendations then I've always liked Motul 300V 5W30 in my hill climb car and used the 300V 5W40 in my WRX and I now use the 5W30 in my R32.
#6
Subarus dont like thin oil, subaru serviced my car my pre scoob 1 week later the car failed and was running on 3, dint think oat of this.
Second scoob went for a service to the same scoob deal 2 weeks later big end went.
Ask what oil was used 10-40, dint thick oat of this till i dii lots of re-search and found 10-40 if driven hard will brake down and fail.
I now use Castrol RS 10/60 as re-builder said this was the right oil and never had probs since 3-1/2 since rebuild using Castrol RS 10/60.
Mate the 10-40 will be fine in the ford
Second scoob went for a service to the same scoob deal 2 weeks later big end went.
Ask what oil was used 10-40, dint thick oat of this till i dii lots of re-search and found 10-40 if driven hard will brake down and fail.
I now use Castrol RS 10/60 as re-builder said this was the right oil and never had probs since 3-1/2 since rebuild using Castrol RS 10/60.
Mate the 10-40 will be fine in the ford
#7
All oils are not created equal but the weight of the oil has nothing to do with if it will break down or not, that is down to the individual properties of the oil used. Oils of the same weight can have vastly different shear strengths and just writing off and oil due to it specific weight is ridiculous, you need to know far more about it than that. The Individual properties are what are important.
These engine failures you talk about, do you know the history of them, ie if they were new or second-hand?, as lets be honest if they were second-hand they could have been abused from day1 so that's not really a measure is it!?!
Agreed the Shell Helix Plus 10W/40 wouldn't be my choice but there is no reason to panic or rush out tomorrow and change it.
These engine failures you talk about, do you know the history of them, ie if they were new or second-hand?, as lets be honest if they were second-hand they could have been abused from day1 so that's not really a measure is it!?!
Agreed the Shell Helix Plus 10W/40 wouldn't be my choice but there is no reason to panic or rush out tomorrow and change it.
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#8
first scoob bought with 1 other owner same as second scoob both full service and low miles. I was told to put 10-60 in and after 3-1/2 years of using it no probs, give it to subaru to put 10-40 on both cars and both cars had engine fails, if you dont think the oil as oat to do with weight and just goes on properties then why not put the very best of mobile 1's 0-40 in. give it a thrash and see how long the engine last. As the OP mate dont put that crap 0-40 in your motor.
stiler83 What oil do you use
stiler83 What oil do you use
#9
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OP, you wont have any problems running the 10w40 semi synthetic in your car, even if you do rag it, most of the scoobs out there still quite happily run 10w40 with no problems
Tony
#12
You do know how the weight rating works right??
The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 5W-30. Historically, the first number associated with the W ('W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "5W" means that this oil can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. A 0W oil is tested at -35°C, a 5W at -30°C and a 10W is tested at -25°C. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. So basically put the first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. So as you can see a 0W40 would have the same viscosity as a 5W40 at operating temperature, so as long as you are not driving hard until up to temp then they would offer you the same protection(in ref to viscosity and not individual oil properties) but I wouldn't recommend a 0W for the Subaru engine.
If I recall correctly Subaru recommend 5W30 on MY01> but I forget for <2000 but like I said I always used 5W40 Motul 300V.
I wouldn't use a 60 as l agree with Tony it is too thick and would say a 15W50 is the max and as both these weight are available under the STi brand that should say something. If you are just fast road driving then a 5W30/40 or 10W40 would be fine and I would only go to a 50 for heavy track use.
The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 5W-30. Historically, the first number associated with the W ('W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "5W" means that this oil can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. A 0W oil is tested at -35°C, a 5W at -30°C and a 10W is tested at -25°C. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. So basically put the first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. So as you can see a 0W40 would have the same viscosity as a 5W40 at operating temperature, so as long as you are not driving hard until up to temp then they would offer you the same protection(in ref to viscosity and not individual oil properties) but I wouldn't recommend a 0W for the Subaru engine.
If I recall correctly Subaru recommend 5W30 on MY01> but I forget for <2000 but like I said I always used 5W40 Motul 300V.
I wouldn't use a 60 as l agree with Tony it is too thick and would say a 15W50 is the max and as both these weight are available under the STi brand that should say something. If you are just fast road driving then a 5W30/40 or 10W40 would be fine and I would only go to a 50 for heavy track use.
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Thanks for that Stiler83
My oil is due a top up very soon. The thing is - i dont know if there is fully or semi synthetic already present in the engine. Can both fully and semi be mixed together - as in if there is fully synthetic already in mine, would it do harm topping it up with semi?
Thanks!
My oil is due a top up very soon. The thing is - i dont know if there is fully or semi synthetic already present in the engine. Can both fully and semi be mixed together - as in if there is fully synthetic already in mine, would it do harm topping it up with semi?
Thanks!
#14
O.K we all have different oils in our cars lets see what every body else uses
I USE 10-60 MY00 FAST ROAD please all add and then we can see, and make our minds please state as i did.
cheers
I USE 10-60 MY00 FAST ROAD please all add and then we can see, and make our minds please state as i did.
cheers
#15
Thanks for that Stiler83
My oil is due a top up very soon. The thing is - i dont know if there is fully or semi synthetic already present in the engine. Can both fully and semi be mixed together - as in if there is fully synthetic already in mine, would it do harm topping it up with semi?
Thanks!
My oil is due a top up very soon. The thing is - i dont know if there is fully or semi synthetic already present in the engine. Can both fully and semi be mixed together - as in if there is fully synthetic already in mine, would it do harm topping it up with semi?
Thanks!
Regular changes using a 10/40 will be fine on a standard (ish) car. Letting the oil warm before caning the car is more important.No oil gives instant protection from cold.
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Thanks very much, all very helpful answers. I'll just stick with what's in it then. Think I'm still used too having my old car where I needed thin oil to get to the top of the head quickly. Cheers.
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Tony
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I run my car which incedently is a 500bhp daily driver on cheap comma semi synth 10/40. The car has never missed a beat and the oil gets changed every 5k.
My car has a hard life sees the red line atleast couple of times a day.
All this crap about you having to spend £50 on 5 litres of the good stuff is complete tosh. On a track it may have some validity but for everyday use any decent semi synth API spec oil will be fine!!!
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At 5000 miles did an oil change on my car with millers 10/60(07 gb270).
I was averaging 230 miles per tank(vpower). At 10,000 i used silkolene pro s 5/40 and average since then has been 270 miles per tank.
No other changes other than grade of oil.
I was averaging 230 miles per tank(vpower). At 10,000 i used silkolene pro s 5/40 and average since then has been 270 miles per tank.
No other changes other than grade of oil.
#25
Just send pm to the oil man will post his reply
Make:subaru
Model:impreza
Year:2000
Engine type:2000
Modifications:VF34 decat from turbo green pan 3 port boost fuel pump 330bhp
Driving style: fast road
Make:subaru
Model:impreza
Year:2000
Engine type:2000
Modifications:VF34 decat from turbo green pan 3 port boost fuel pump 330bhp
Driving style: fast road
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I've done a few searches on this and still not sure what is the best grade.
Suppose it depends on driving style, use and power of the car.
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you will always find varying replies on what grade of oil to use, people have different preferences. Most people on the forums are enthusiasts and are willing to spend a bit more to look their cars.
I've done a few searches on this and still not sure what is the best grade.
Suppose it depends on driving style, use and power of the car.
I've done a few searches on this and still not sure what is the best grade.
Suppose it depends on driving style, use and power of the car.
The engine is basically standard for now anyway. Remap is coming one day but will cross that bridge another day.
The car is used every day and not put over 3000rpm till warm.
Driving style is calm most of the time with the odd red line every now and again.