Split c.v boot....!
#1
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Split c.v boot....!
right guys , easiest way to change a front outside cv boot???
grease everywhere..great...
any advice on how to change
1998 classic turbo
grease everywhere..great...
any advice on how to change
1998 classic turbo
#2
Sorry, no advice on how to change, but when we lived in Australia and took our Scooby round the Outback, the standard bush mechanic's repair until you could get a new boot fitted was to re-grease (but check you use the right sort!) the joint then cover the boot with cling film.
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I tried to change the cv boot on my STI. Basically, I couldn't spilt the joint so in the end I opted for one of those wrap around ones (bad I know) which was fine without any leaks and passed mot.
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a company called Bailcast do split and / or stretchy cv boot kits.
Split boot = exactly what it says, a CV Boot that has been cut with an intermeshing seam and some special rubber glue that you apply to make it "complete" or sealed once you have the narrow end over the drive shaft.
Stretchy type is exactly that - you buy a plastic cone that the boot slides over but you will still need to remove the drive shaft from the hub so you can position the cone to slide the boot into place.
They both work well and we used to sell loads at the large national company I worked for.
Dependant on your ability and if it were me, longterm go for the stretchy type...... if however you have limited ability then probably stick with the glue on one.
here you go fella
http://www.bailcast.com/files/CV%20B...gue%202007.pdf
Regards
GB
Split boot = exactly what it says, a CV Boot that has been cut with an intermeshing seam and some special rubber glue that you apply to make it "complete" or sealed once you have the narrow end over the drive shaft.
Stretchy type is exactly that - you buy a plastic cone that the boot slides over but you will still need to remove the drive shaft from the hub so you can position the cone to slide the boot into place.
They both work well and we used to sell loads at the large national company I worked for.
Dependant on your ability and if it were me, longterm go for the stretchy type...... if however you have limited ability then probably stick with the glue on one.
here you go fella
http://www.bailcast.com/files/CV%20B...gue%202007.pdf
Regards
GB
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cv boot
try a local motor factor for a cv boot fitting cone.easy enough to use just slide the boot over the cone and then roll it back off over the joint bit of soap and boiling water is all thats needed. i hope this helps you
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i, ve found i have a tiny tear in the boot, right near the clip and it must be just flinging it out at speed, gunna try cleaning it and glueing it up before i get too involved
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I remember reading your posts when I wanted to fit the cv boot but after several hours I gave up. I could just not spit the joint, or remove the inner joint from the gearbox.
My wrap around one cost me £14.00
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inner joint is a simple dowel type plug!!
you simply tap it out, remove the bottom shocker bolts/or some people in america seam to think the bottom ball joint is enough and you have enough free play to slide the inner CV joint off the gearbox
i have fitted them simply by pulling the new cv boot over the inner cv joint (requires the bailicast stretchy tool or large muscles)
honestly the inner joint is held on the splines by what looks like a simple door hinge pin!
saves all that horrible "remove cv joint from driveshaft" stuff that covers you in horrible black grease
you simply tap it out, remove the bottom shocker bolts/or some people in america seam to think the bottom ball joint is enough and you have enough free play to slide the inner CV joint off the gearbox
i have fitted them simply by pulling the new cv boot over the inner cv joint (requires the bailicast stretchy tool or large muscles)
honestly the inner joint is held on the splines by what looks like a simple door hinge pin!
saves all that horrible "remove cv joint from driveshaft" stuff that covers you in horrible black grease
Last edited by StickyMicky; 18 June 2008 at 05:54 PM.
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