Switched from Mineral to Synthetic - WOW!
15 June 2008, 11:47 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ascended to the next level
Posts: 7,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Switched from Mineral to Synthetic - WOW!
I ran out of my usual "Formula 1" 20w-50 mineral oil which I needed for my annual oil change. So I decided to use Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
16 June 2008, 09:08 AM
#5
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: ex 2006 Forester STI in Black, Surrey
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran out of my usual "Formula 1" 20w-50 mineral oil which I needed for my annual oil change. So I decided to use Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
Trending Topics
16 June 2008, 12:45 PM
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Posts: 18,687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ran out of my usual "Formula 1" 20w-50 mineral oil which I needed for my annual oil change. So I decided to use Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
All I can say is wow! I can feel the difference, honestly! I can start the engine just by pulling the cord with my little finger, and even when cold the engine whizzes instantly up to the rev limiter. Whereas before I needed to tug the starter cord a fair bit harder and when the engine fired up, it would hunt about a little before settling. Engine seems a little quieter and smoother too.
I'm impressed - didn't think a thinner oil would make that much difference
16 June 2008, 05:18 PM
#12
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: www.revlimit.co.uk
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
19 June 2008, 12:33 AM
#17
It will run a carburetor and ignition is probably on points so it may not have an ECU so mapping as we know it is out.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
Last edited by harvey; 19 June 2008 at 12:40 AM.
19 June 2008, 07:50 AM
#18
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In a 405 BHP/360 ft/lb P1 with SN superstar Sonic dog at my side!
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It will run a carburetor and ignition is probably on points so it may not have an ECU so mapping as we know it is out.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
I have some specialist sotware i have developed myself for just this application.
ZX spectrum and Commodore 64 compatabile.
19 June 2008, 11:59 AM
#20
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sheffield; Rome of the North
Posts: 17,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It will run a carburetor and ignition is probably on points so it may not have an ECU so mapping as we know it is out.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
Is it 4 stroke and if so what cam are you running?
Don't waste money on V-Power as it will probably run on 91 RON OK but think about 95 RON if you skim the head so you do not run into problems with DET.
The downside will be that the b*stard thing now hovers 8" off the ground!
19 June 2008, 12:41 PM
#21
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Exeter
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As your current setup is NA, have you considered a possible turbo conversion?
YouTube - Turbo Murray Lawnmower
Or maybe even something a little more "radical" ?
YouTube - Jet Lawnmower - Fireworks Steve
If you do go for the jet engine option, so you be careful of erm.. Catastrophic failure....
YouTube - Jet Lawnmower - Up in FLAMES!! Fireworks Steve Gets BBQ'd
YouTube - Turbo Murray Lawnmower
Or maybe even something a little more "radical" ?
YouTube - Jet Lawnmower - Fireworks Steve
If you do go for the jet engine option, so you be careful of erm.. Catastrophic failure....
YouTube - Jet Lawnmower - Up in FLAMES!! Fireworks Steve Gets BBQ'd
Last edited by joekont; 19 June 2008 at 12:44 PM.
19 June 2008, 02:51 PM
#22
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: France
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mowzilla Nitros mower its the future 
YouTube - MowZilla Nitrous Powered Lawn Mower
Some very odd people around
20 June 2008, 08:20 AM
#23
There are bigger gains on the exhaust side so port that first. I have DEI heat wrap here if you need it to keep temperatures down.
Hovering at 8" is not much use for the purpose for which it is intended but you could drill holes in the top cover surface just a few at a time until you get the ride height. If you go too far these can be blanked off with bungs and araldyte.
What is your rev limiter set at? You could always reduce the revs a bit but remember that will also reduce the torque.
Hovering at 8" is not much use for the purpose for which it is intended but you could drill holes in the top cover surface just a few at a time until you get the ride height. If you go too far these can be blanked off with bungs and araldyte.
What is your rev limiter set at? You could always reduce the revs a bit but remember that will also reduce the torque.
20 June 2008, 11:25 AM
#24
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ascended to the next level
Posts: 7,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
According to the ID plate, it was set at 2700rpm (To conform to EU noise/emission regs 
), but when the spring fell off I just set it by ear, I guess its about 3500rpm now.
I could pusher it higher, but I think I need to get the blades balanced first. Biggest problem is adjusting the fueling to to cope; it s a modern carburettor thats non-adjustable (for emissions regs). I could just drill out the jet though. Or maybe fit a different carb...will a SU HIF44 fit?
I've been thinking of upping the compression ratio; Its a side valve engine, so all I need to do is skim the cylinder head. I need get some det cans or a knock link first though to make sure it doesn't det
), but when the spring fell off I just set it by ear, I guess its about 3500rpm now. I could pusher it higher, but I think I need to get the blades balanced first. Biggest problem is adjusting the fueling to to cope; it s a modern carburettor thats non-adjustable (for emissions regs). I could just drill out the jet though. Or maybe fit a different carb...will a SU HIF44 fit?
I've been thinking of upping the compression ratio; Its a side valve engine, so all I need to do is skim the cylinder head. I need get some det cans or a knock link first though to make sure it doesn't det
Last edited by Shark Man; 20 June 2008 at 11:27 AM.
22 June 2008, 12:40 AM
#25
Check the owners manual to see if you have the low compression 91 RON model or the high compression 95 RON GT version. If you skim the head then go up a grade of fuel eg 91 to 95 or 95 to V-Power. Of course you could run NF at 2 mls/litre.
You might want one grade colder plug.
Don't bother with a K.L. because you will get false indications when you have stone srrikes. Det cans have to be the way to go.
In view of concerns about global warming I think you should do the right thing and DEI heat wrap the exhaust system.
I can't help you on the carb front other than drilling out the main jet but it only takes a marginal diameter increase to greatly add to fuelling. Only carbs I have any recent experience on are the four on my bike and just one of these will be too big for your side valve application.
We have a lot of grass out the back you can practice on if you wish.
You might want one grade colder plug.
Don't bother with a K.L. because you will get false indications when you have stone srrikes. Det cans have to be the way to go.
In view of concerns about global warming I think you should do the right thing and DEI heat wrap the exhaust system.
I can't help you on the carb front other than drilling out the main jet but it only takes a marginal diameter increase to greatly add to fuelling. Only carbs I have any recent experience on are the four on my bike and just one of these will be too big for your side valve application.
We have a lot of grass out the back you can practice on if you wish.
22 June 2008, 12:36 PM
#26
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Ascended to the next level
Posts: 7,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just checked the manual and it says I should be using SAE30 it even mentions SAE10 for winter use!!!! :freak:
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...81-1215-14.pdf
So maybe even 5w-40 is too thick!
Thing is, its an American engine, and it says to use regular gasoline. But USA regular is different to UK normal unleaded, which I think is equivelent to their premium gasoline???
Maybe I should use Vpower, just in case. It also says I can use E10 fuel, so Tesco 99Ron should be ok too
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...81-1215-14.pdf
So maybe even 5w-40 is too thick!
Thing is, its an American engine, and it says to use regular gasoline. But USA regular is different to UK normal unleaded, which I think is equivelent to their premium gasoline???
Maybe I should use Vpower, just in case. It also says I can use E10 fuel, so Tesco 99Ron should be ok too
22 June 2008, 06:19 PM
#28
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sheffield; Rome of the North
Posts: 17,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the owners manual to see if you have the low compression 91 RON model or the high compression 95 RON GT version. If you skim the head then go up a grade of fuel eg 91 to 95 or 95 to V-Power. Of course you could run NF at 2 mls/litre.
You might want one grade colder plug.
Don't bother with a K.L. because you will get false indications when you have stone srrikes. Det cans have to be the way to go.
In view of concerns about global warming I think you should do the right thing and DEI heat wrap the exhaust system.
I can't help you on the carb front other than drilling out the main jet but it only takes a marginal diameter increase to greatly add to fuelling. Only carbs I have any recent experience on are the four on my bike and just one of these will be too big for your side valve application.
We have a lot of grass out the back you can practice on if you wish.
You might want one grade colder plug.
Don't bother with a K.L. because you will get false indications when you have stone srrikes. Det cans have to be the way to go.
In view of concerns about global warming I think you should do the right thing and DEI heat wrap the exhaust system.
I can't help you on the carb front other than drilling out the main jet but it only takes a marginal diameter increase to greatly add to fuelling. Only carbs I have any recent experience on are the four on my bike and just one of these will be too big for your side valve application.
We have a lot of grass out the back you can practice on if you wish.
23 June 2008, 07:19 PM
#29
I just checked the manual and it says I should be using SAE30 it even mentions SAE10 for winter use!!!! :freak:
Now as regards fuel grade, I would guess it is designed to run on 91 Ron which I think is the basic US fuel grade so running 95 without NF should be good and if you have any doubts just add 1ml per litre NF to be on the safe side. No need to go to V-Power.
Does the handbook give the compression ratio?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM
An0n0m0us
Computer & Technology Related
0
28 September 2015 09:58 PM
