vance1

iTrader: (3)

Hi all, just got myself an 03 STi PPP and wanted to do an oil and filter change for peace of mind. How easy is it without a pit or trolley jack? I can't even see where the filter is! I guess a genuine filter and 10/40 fully synthetic oil is ok?
Many thanks,
Vance

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

Make sure u disconnect the crank sensor and pre fill the oil filter.















Waits for the argument to start

Mark'sWRX

The hardest part is getting the undertray off (& on again). Once it's off, the filter is easy to spot.

The oil and filter you mention is fine.

Agree, you must pre-fill the filter and keep filling it as it drains down (takes a while), but there is some doubt about having to disconnect the crank sensor. Most do, but it will bring on your ECU check light which will need to be reset afterwards.

vance1

iTrader: (3)

How do you reset the ECU check light? Can I ask why you need to disconnect the crank sensor, or am I best not?

bpm1588

you don't need to disconnect any thing,urban myth on here that some like to keep going.
just pre fill oil filter before screwing on and fill with good quality oil,simple as that

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

I agree.
What make of oil did you buy? Most fully synthetics are 5/40 Probably the most easily obtained full-synthetic 10/40 is Millers CFS
JohnD

pslewis

Leave the Sensor Removal to the simple of mind

Mark'sWRX

The theory is that you can turn the engine over on the starter without starting the engine and thus priming the system with fresh oil. It can also be argued that you are doing more harm by turning the engine over on the starter for 30 secs and the best way of pumping oil round is to actually start the car.

There is a way of resetting the ECU light by a certain sequence of ignition on/off, but I can't remember it. Or you have to go to a dealer/specialist for a reset on their computer.

vance1

iTrader: (3)

Ok thanks, I won't disconnect anything! I havent bought the oil or filter yet, what oil do the dealers sell? Is the Millers oil recommended?
Thanks

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Dealers would normally use a semi-syn. oil unless requested otherwise. Millers is very good stuff but not always easy to buy locally. Have a look on their site for retailers.
Millers Oils

JohnD

vance1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks John. I've seen some Mobil 10/40 Semi synthetic in Halfrauds for £18. Is this any good for about 3 months ish till my next service?

BIGEMP

iTrader: (13)

i always get my millers oil and genuine filter from Scoobyparts - Subaru Impreza parts and accessories good price and super quick delivery,and an easy job to do

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

That's a perfectly good semi-syn. For ultimate protection a good full-syn. is prefered, but not absolutely essential. Certainly fine for the period you're considering, plus, full-syn. would be over twice that price!
JohnD

vance1

iTrader: (3)

Cheers John, phoned Brecks Subaru to get a filter and asked about their oil and he said it was £22 and thought it was fully synthetic! For 5 litres! I presume he's wrong and it's semi synthetic?

brookysti

ive looked in the maual for mine and it states 5w 30w oil???

D1CCY

An alternative to disconnecting the crank sensor is to remove SBF5 instead (fuel pump fuse in box next to battery). This avoids the CEL coming on. Remove this fuse and try to start the engine before you drain the old oil to ensure there is no residual fuel pressure. No bother to do so why risk not doing it this way.

If engine fires without oil pressure the pressure load/impact on the crank is significant, when cranking only this doesn't happen. I've changed oil on many cars over the years and have always been bothered by the clatter on starting before the oil pressure recovers, can't be doing any good.

pslewis

Clatter???

Clatter???

Clatter???

What are you doing

Cranking the engine over on the starter does more damage than letting the engine fire and get the pressure up

THERE IS NO RISK if you do not act like a geeky **** ..... change the oil and fire the bloody thing up!

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Get's a bit worrying when it's obvious the bloke in the service dept. doesn't even know what oil the dealership uses! Sadly, all too common.
From a dealer, £22 is very cheap, even for a semi-synthetic! (Bet that's before VAT!)

JohnD

pslewis

I pay £14:99 - £16:99 for FUCH Semi 10W-40 waste of money paying anymore IMO

vance1

iTrader: (3)

I thought it was quite worrying too John! Not knowing what oil they use! I think I'll get the Mobil and use RE for my servicing!

pslewis

This is the stuff ..... a very reasonable £11:99 for 5 Litres too

Opie Oils - Fuchs TITAN XTR 10W/40 High Performance Semi-Synthetic Engine Oil

Mark'sWRX

As has been pointed out before:

Most of us have invested a lot of time and money in our cars. I for one prefer to spend an extra £30 a year on making sure the lifeblood of my engine is up to the job. If I've wasted it, then I'll not lose sleep over it.

(Based on me paying £28.99 for 5l of Millers full synthetic twice a year.)

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Good old Pete, guaranteed to get you going

JohnD

pslewis

As has been pointed out before:

You are wasting your money, this is the opinion of 'maybe' the highest qualified Engineer on this BBS ... both in years of experience and paper docs.

You pay what you wish to pay to sleep easy - I lose no sleep whatsoever using oil costing £12 for 5 Litres (but then again I do know what I'm talking about and I don't scare easy!)

D1CCY

Pete,

Always good for a bit of controversy but I must disagree, I was talking about worn out escorts and the like which were a bit loose in the bearing department and yes they do clatter until the oil pressure resumes after an oil change particularly as I never would have thought about prefilling the filter in those days.

My point (even if I am being ****) is that firing places impact loads on the crank pins which without oil pressure can lead to damage that can be easily avoided and Scoobs are particularly sensitive to this. BTW pulling fuse 35 does the same job for a Mk4 Fiesta.

Cheers, Diccy.

pslewis

Diccy, Darling .....

When I changed oil in the 70's the engine rattled for 3 seconds or so until pressure built up ...... like you, I cannot remember pre-filling the filter then either (so, thats the reason for the rattling)

Since the 80's I have always pre-filled the filter ..... Subaru say it's not necessary and the Main Dealers don't pre-fill ..... but I allow myself that **** Geeky Action

BUT, when it comes to the **** Extremes I do not engage myself in pointless activities and, worse, damage my engine by churning over on the starter while not firing!

When Oil is drained from the engine in a normal oil change please don't tell me that you believe the bearings to be dry!!??

And if, as is the case, the bearings are coated in oil then no damage is caused by firing the engine after an oil change ........... if the oil drained from all surfaces on a change then you would have to disconnect the sensor everytime you started the car if it had been stood for more than 20minutes!! - where do you presume all the oil sits overnight??

No, sorry, I'm an Engineer and can state ABSOLUTELY that preventing firing after an Oil change is pointless in the least and may well damage your engine by increased slow speed churning!

Dimebag

Mr Lewis, as an automotive engineer I agree with you. Indeed, I advocate the same to anyone who asks for my opinion on the matter, including shooting down the "disconnect the crank sensor" brigade. Finally, there is someone (you ) who agrees with me.

They always say "but all of the new oil is in the sump, there is none in the oilways"
My usual exasperated cry is "where do you think all of the oil from the oilways goes overnight?..into your sump!"

pslewis

Some people know the truth - and some people are led by others who don't know diddly squat

The internet is a wonder of the modern age - but it does throw up plenty of utter crap - disconnecting the sensor is just one of them!!

Life is life - some are easily led and taken advantage of - some know better and stand firm

D1CCY

Pete, arguing with you is like wrestling with a pig in sh*t, after a while you realise the pig is enjoying it, and I'm just as bad. Honestly I am not being led or taken advantage of by anyone.

When the filter is removed a significant amount of air enters the oil galleries and is different to leaving overnight. On restart this air can only be forced through the bearings by the oil following it and therefore the bearings are getting air pushed through them and I'd rather the crank is turning slowly without firing loads in this situation.

The total crank revolutions will be the same whether cranking or running before oil pressure is restored although it takes longer timewise just cranking. I have seen no credible explanation as to how cranking will potentially cause more damage than running.

We may well have to agree to disagree on this.

BTW I'm an Engineer as well.

Cheers, Diccy.

pslewis

I didn't realise that the engine was at negative pressure and sucked air in when the filter was removed

Come on, don't be daft

Where did you complete your Degree and in what branch of Engineering?