Will a P1 rape me?
#1
Will a P1 rape me?
Hi there,
I'm new to these forums so apologies if this topic has already been covered. Anyway, I currently drive a 2001 WRX (bug-eye) and am seriously considering getting a P1 next year.
However, I need to know if I'm going to get shafted by insurance and running costs with the P1 - is it likey to considerably more expensive to run than my humble WRX? What's the reliability like?
I need to know what I should be expecting to get for about £10k - what's a reasonable mileage for this price? And also, is this P1 as 'brutal' as I've heard?
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers
I'm new to these forums so apologies if this topic has already been covered. Anyway, I currently drive a 2001 WRX (bug-eye) and am seriously considering getting a P1 next year.
However, I need to know if I'm going to get shafted by insurance and running costs with the P1 - is it likey to considerably more expensive to run than my humble WRX? What's the reliability like?
I need to know what I should be expecting to get for about £10k - what's a reasonable mileage for this price? And also, is this P1 as 'brutal' as I've heard?
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers
#2
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If your heart's set on it, go for it. Have a bl**dy good look around whatever cars you view.
Factor in insurance and MPG of under 24 for an unmodified example.
The shells are quite light and the original design hails from 1991/1992. So it's not immune to corrosion/rust.
Apart from any knocks/clonks and other odd noises you may encounter on a test drive, check the front/rear bumper alignment. Due to the weight and low height of the front bumper and splitter it's always the first casualty. Also check the returns on the front wings, where the bumper wraps around to the wheel arch.
HTH.
J.
Factor in insurance and MPG of under 24 for an unmodified example.
The shells are quite light and the original design hails from 1991/1992. So it's not immune to corrosion/rust.
Apart from any knocks/clonks and other odd noises you may encounter on a test drive, check the front/rear bumper alignment. Due to the weight and low height of the front bumper and splitter it's always the first casualty. Also check the returns on the front wings, where the bumper wraps around to the wheel arch.
HTH.
J.
#3
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P1 are a gr8 choice(view my scoob),I usaully change cars once ayear but i had my P1 for 5 year now ...but beware the modding cost as I've spent the best part of £25K on upgrade !
running cost should be the same as a Wrx though
a gr8 "driver's car " imho
most important before a purchase ..get it check out by a Scooby specialist before committing .
good luck and hope you find one
ps get one the best ones out there (pay a bit more )
I think £12k should get you a really nice example
running cost should be the same as a Wrx though
a gr8 "driver's car " imho
most important before a purchase ..get it check out by a Scooby specialist before committing .
good luck and hope you find one
ps get one the best ones out there (pay a bit more )
I think £12k should get you a really nice example
Last edited by bighead; 20 December 2007 at 10:39 AM.
#5
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Shouldn't see how a P1 would cost more to run than a wrx? Get an insurance quote before looking around. I'd also get one with a knackered engine and get the rebuild done by a trusted garage.
#6
Cheers for the advice everyone. I really want a P1, but I've just seen a bug-eye WRX STI PPP for sale in a local garage for 9,995 - really don't know what to do now!
#7
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The P1 is always going to hold it's value better than a bugeye sti. Plus it doesn't look like a disaster.
P1 every time for me.
P1 every time for me.
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#8
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A choice between the 2, P1 every single time. Just be careful when you do buy one as you're very unlikely to require a 3-4k engine rebuild on a bug eye.
#9
as for insurance
try churchill i used them i am 25 4yrs ncb no pints cost me £815 a year fully comp
my cash would go on the p1, beware though they are no tcheap, my power steering pump went and was £600 the rear shocks went so that was £1k on upgrade as each unit from subaru costs £260 +vat b4 fitting so they can be expensive. as said try nd hold out for one with a new engine and get it along to someone like Bob Rawle @ BRDevelopments he has a great base map for the car to help engine life etc
you wont regret it even though after all the cash spent on fixing and mods still the best car i have ever had thinking about it makes me want another lol
steve
try churchill i used them i am 25 4yrs ncb no pints cost me £815 a year fully comp
my cash would go on the p1, beware though they are no tcheap, my power steering pump went and was £600 the rear shocks went so that was £1k on upgrade as each unit from subaru costs £260 +vat b4 fitting so they can be expensive. as said try nd hold out for one with a new engine and get it along to someone like Bob Rawle @ BRDevelopments he has a great base map for the car to help engine life etc
you wont regret it even though after all the cash spent on fixing and mods still the best car i have ever had thinking about it makes me want another lol
steve
#10
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I was dead set on a P1 but it will be a 2nd car and I don't really want to pay £££ on insurance for a car thats only used during the summer.
For this reason, I've decided to wait until next year and have a V5 Type R imported from Japan. V5s will be 10 years old next year which means a) they'll be cheaper to import due to not needing an SVA and B) they'll be eligible for classic car insurance. Even though its an import it makes insurance a good few hundred quid cheaper than the P1.
A P1 is essentially a V5 anyway. But at least this way I'll get DCCD and I also want a V Lim so blue seats and roof vent are a must.
For this reason, I've decided to wait until next year and have a V5 Type R imported from Japan. V5s will be 10 years old next year which means a) they'll be cheaper to import due to not needing an SVA and B) they'll be eligible for classic car insurance. Even though its an import it makes insurance a good few hundred quid cheaper than the P1.
A P1 is essentially a V5 anyway. But at least this way I'll get DCCD and I also want a V Lim so blue seats and roof vent are a must.
#11
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wise decission not that theres anything wrong with a p1 but as was said to me when i was looking a p1 is a type r with all the best bits taken off! my advice though is find one with as many mods as possible ie suspension/brakes fmic big turbo ect,ect that way when the big end goes you only got to pay for the rebuild and can afford to go the whole hog!!
#12
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#13
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ooopps! wasnt intended to offend just quoting what was said by a reputable tuner " no dccd soft suspension no uprated diffs loss of the fantastic gear box " now im no expert on all things subaru so please correct me if im wrong as im new to this! oh and when i was looking the only p1 for less than 10k was a bag of sh''t and the one i did like was 14k and i only had 8k as i said theres nothing wrong with a p1 if you can afford it! and i did not intend to offend!!!!
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I hope this thread doesn't get muppetised into another P1 vs Type R thread.
Let's get back on track with the original thread question.....
Owning and running a P1 would be a big step up in terms of performance to your 01 WRX. Not only will it be quicker, but better suspension and body control will make it feel more hardcore without being too hardcore.
Running costs will be higher - more frequent servicing (every 6 mths or 7.5k miles), probably higher insurance, but other than that they should be similar - fuel, parts, etc.
Take one for a test drive if you haven't already and I guarantee you will absolutely love it
Let's get back on track with the original thread question.....
Owning and running a P1 would be a big step up in terms of performance to your 01 WRX. Not only will it be quicker, but better suspension and body control will make it feel more hardcore without being too hardcore.
Running costs will be higher - more frequent servicing (every 6 mths or 7.5k miles), probably higher insurance, but other than that they should be similar - fuel, parts, etc.
Take one for a test drive if you haven't already and I guarantee you will absolutely love it
#16
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My Mrs loves her P1, and I'm quite fond of it too!
She bought 2.5 years ago, just had an engine rebuild before she bought it too.
Recently dyno'd at 316Bhp and normally returns 320 miles/tank
Fantastic car, the only thing that was letting it down was a bit of understeer, I've now sorted that by fitting a whiteline ARB and ally droplinks
It's been very reliable and no problems have arose apart from a leaky rocker cover gasket and the clutch slipping
She bought 2.5 years ago, just had an engine rebuild before she bought it too.
Recently dyno'd at 316Bhp and normally returns 320 miles/tank
Fantastic car, the only thing that was letting it down was a bit of understeer, I've now sorted that by fitting a whiteline ARB and ally droplinks
It's been very reliable and no problems have arose apart from a leaky rocker cover gasket and the clutch slipping
#18
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I ve had my P1 for about fourteen months our lass loves its done 59k with just the usual servicing costs and a new MAF as said above ive just cracked my front splitter on a low kerb . If it does go wrong i still have one grandma and parents to trade in for a re build Still lots of fun all you can do is test drive it and wait for the smile
#22
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"The" Prodrive P1
To the OP: Generally, I think servicing and the like will be more expensive. Parts, conversely, may be less expensive. Particularly if you look to the aftermarket. Considering the cost of the original suspension, there are very, very good coilover kits available for less money. At least two types of P1-like wheels are available if you break the originals.
J.
To the OP: Generally, I think servicing and the like will be more expensive. Parts, conversely, may be less expensive. Particularly if you look to the aftermarket. Considering the cost of the original suspension, there are very, very good coilover kits available for less money. At least two types of P1-like wheels are available if you break the originals.
J.
#23
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Bother to do a search as I can't be arsed to defend a P1 yet again against an argument based upon less than 10 miles driving 'or what some1 else told me innit'.
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#27
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For the record Ive owned a P1 and driven a Type R and a Type R 555 V limited, my money is on the P1 everyday. If you want a trackday weapon, go with the Type R...
#28
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I agree for a track, but I can't see where the OP says he'll mostly be doing track work.
#29
Hmmm, cheers for the advice everyone, but I'm still undecided. If money wasn't an issue, I'd go for the P1 every time, but I want a Subaru with lower mileage than my current WRX (77,000) and something that is going to be reliable.
That said, if I went for an STI, I know I'll just be constantly thinking that I'd rather have a P1.
To be honest, I'm not dedicated or wealthy enough to spend money on improvements and upgrades - I just want an unmodified Scoob that goes like stink and puts a huge smile on my face
That said, if I went for an STI, I know I'll just be constantly thinking that I'd rather have a P1.
To be honest, I'm not dedicated or wealthy enough to spend money on improvements and upgrades - I just want an unmodified Scoob that goes like stink and puts a huge smile on my face
#30
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Hmmm, cheers for the advice everyone, but I'm still undecided. If money wasn't an issue, I'd go for the P1 every time, but I want a Subaru with lower mileage than my current WRX (77,000) and something that is going to be reliable.
That said, if I went for an STI, I know I'll just be constantly thinking that I'd rather have a P1.
To be honest, I'm not dedicated or wealthy enough to spend money on improvements and upgrades - I just want an unmodified Scoob that goes like stink and puts a huge smile on my face
That said, if I went for an STI, I know I'll just be constantly thinking that I'd rather have a P1.
To be honest, I'm not dedicated or wealthy enough to spend money on improvements and upgrades - I just want an unmodified Scoob that goes like stink and puts a huge smile on my face
a P1 then