joe79er

this morning on my way to work there was a loud noise from the engine(like some spanners in the washing machine). Before i could pull over the car lost all power and the engine started smoking bad. When the car was off the back of the recovery truck there was a puddle of fresh oil on the trailer. So i am sad to say i am going to sell it.

DevilHimSelf

HMM sorry to hear that,

Dont expect much for it with a knackered engine.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Bad luck, mate.
Just out of interest, what mods did it have, or was it standard?

What model, and what year? Were you running on 98, 99, or 95 octane?

Alcazar

joe79er

the only mods i had was a baileys dump valve and 17' wheels.
It is a 1998/R and was putting in 98.
I have thought all day about it and i want to fix it now. does anyone know any rebuild specilist's and the rough price.

minty

iTrader: (1)

good luck, if you change your mind, let me know what your after to sell it. Thanks
Chris.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

speak to Tritonmotorsport (01202 571564) at Hurn airport or further afield is Welcome to the API website (speak to David)

scoobynutta555

Rebuilt by a good garage will cost near 3k including recovery. Selling the car as is I'd say you'd be lucky to get near 1k. If you don't fancy paying anything you might be able to write the car off with your insurance company.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

try ScoobyBits | Subaru Specialists // New & Used Parts // Repairs & Servicing

see what jason (the gaffer) has to say.

jasemac on here.

think he should be able to do a good price on a rebuild if you explain in detail whats happened. 01709 555155

good luck anywho.

Tired Old Dad

It maybe cheaper to buy an engine from someone like japperformanceparts.co.uk, top guys and always got stuff in stock. Then just a case of whipping old engine out and sticking new one in. Good luck, also if you decide to scrap still give them a ring as they seem to offer good prices for no good cars.

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

You could get a used engine from somewhere like Grade A or similar and just drop it straight in for around £1000.

DazW

iTrader: (1)

Gutted for you mate ...had exactly the same thing happen to me a few months ago & you're easily looking at £3K for a decent rebuild (which is what mine came to)

looking back i really should of either broke the car up (would have easily got what i'd paid for it back) or fitted a s/h engine (£1K) & used the spare cash to rebuild my old engine to a decent spec myself (depends if you have the inclination or garage space) or pick up a project engine from on here ...of which i've seen a few since

scoobynutta555

The trouble with a second hand engine is you will have no idea of the history of it and what condition it is in. You could go to all that trouble and be right back where you started from. Unless you're a dab hand at swapping engines around it's also likely you'll have to pay someone to do it. What started off as a cheap fix can soon turn into an expensive nightmare. And of course you'll have no warranty if things do go wrong. I certainly wouldn't put a s/h engine in.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

If you DO decide to repair it, do put the standard, or another recirculating d/v on it.

Alcazar

wraggy78

Do you think that could have had anything to do with it?????

Mikkel

Unlikely. People on here just don't seem to like VTA DVs. Not for me either but they are harmless in the most part.

wraggy78

I have noticed that people on here are against them.
Personally each to there own imho.
was just curious

DazW

iTrader: (1)

Like i said in the original post, the s/h engine is buying you time, a decent breaker (i.e not fleabay) should be able to supply you a 6 month warrantied engine

scoobynutta555

What breakers supply a 6 month warranty with a used engine, especially one DIY fitted, or is the warranty supply and fit? Has this engine been refurbed or straight out of another car? I find it hard to believe that any 'decent' garage would supply a non reconned engine with a 6 month warranty for a grand. And if they did I'd assume the warranty is worthless.
You'll also have to change your logbook as the engine number won't match the number on the V5.

My experience of buying a second hand engine is not to. I had this problem many years ago with a Fiesta RS and for a 'cheap fix to buy you time' was a complete expensive nightmare and the warranty was a waste of time.

The best advice you'll receive here is to get the engine done by someone like API (there's only a handful of garages I'd let loose on my car for a rebuild) and swallow a bill for 3k or just get shot of the thing with a blown engine. You'll have the car gone for up to 4 weeks, but you'll have a car back that will have a bona fida warranty, it'll be serviced properly and the cambelt will be done. Just don't get carried away with any mods at the same time, if you're on a budget, as David is quite persuasive

FWIW the Impreza I bought with a knackered engine had a crappy dump valve on it too. I bought the car for 1.5k 13 months ago. It was a facelifted W reg with full history, and alas now the D/V is in the bin.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes.

The car, as built, is fitted with a recirculating dump valve, which puts the already metered air BACK INTO THE ENGINE, so that the fuel, as delivered by the ecu for that amount of air, is correct.

A VTA dump valve dumps the already metered air to the atmosphere, so that the fuel, calculated by the ecu for that amount of air, is too rich.

Fuel wash is the result, and premature wear of cylinder liners, pistons, valves and possibly bearings..

Sorry, but Subaru, Prodrive, TSL, Graham Goode, API, Bob Rawle etc etc can't ALL be wrong.

It's not a case of people on here don't like VTA valves, we don't fit them because we've been advised NOT to do so by people who KNOW.

Alcazar

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

If that were true, why would the respected tuners, mappers and engine specialists say otherwise?

Find me a respected one that says VTA d/v's are OK, and I'll shut up

Alcazar

joe79er

so could this have helped kill my scooby?

WRX_Dazza

i've had a gradeA engine in my car for about a year now (due to a hairline crack in my old block) runs as good as ever, quiet, and clean.

well worth the money for a years worth of driving, so its paid for itself already.

have a think about it.....

a second hand ford focus can cost you £200 / month a month on finance
thats £2400 a year. thats the same as 2 engines for a scoob. its all relative!!!

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

slightly off topic but i find it laughable that you can blame a VTA for engine falure, fuelwash occuring from the small amount of excess air not needed created by the turbo,would have to be a damn lot of fuel going thru in the 1st place !

King Eric

I would personally get Len and Subaru 4U in Newbury to look at it...you may be suprised at how reasonably priced it could be. When I believed my engine was gone (it turned out to be a shredded cambelt knocking on the cover because of something odd happening) Len was a much more financially viable option to sort it out (if it was the worst case)

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Well, yes, since the d/v will only work at higher boost which is wide throttle openings and therefore large amounts of fuel.

And the amount of oil IN the cylinder is minimal, so not much fuel needed to remove it..............

Laughable it may be, but it's what the tuners, mappers, Prodrive and Subaru actually say, so I'm not gonna argue with them.

Alcazar

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

I agree.

Every, and I do mean EVERY, tuner I have spoken to has indicated that the std recirculating dump valve is the best option untill high levels of tune. I have several mates who've gone from VTA to recirculating and have all commented that the car ran significantly better with the latter!

Ns04

scoobynutta555

Yes but did this cost 1k including fitting and 6 months warranty? I'm certainly not suggesting that all second hand engines are pap, but surely it's more of a gamble than going the more expensive route with a warranty. A gamble that can cost considerably more than getting it done the expensive route first time around, like I found out once the hard way.

I don't really understand why you've tagged a Focus on finance on the end of your point. I'm just about to buy a nice mk3 Golf 16v for around a grand, the same price as this hypothetical second hand engine. You do have an overall point though, it is all relative.

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Get the job done right, Pay once!

For some, it's a gamble worth taking. For others, the security of having effectively a new engine with a warranty is paramount!

Ns04

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

wait

wait

wait....

































what did andy f have to say on this a while back? doesnt it depend on your driving style too? (not the engine going pop, but the actual effects of a vta??)

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

LOL Not sure mate, but I'd be interested in finding out. When I was specifying my classic for 320bhp, and asked whether it was necessary/beneficial to change the OEM recirculating valve they all said a resounding 'no'. In fact, some argued that it would be a step backwards! The people I've spoken to who've gone back to recirculating said that the only "benefit" was the noise, and ironically, that was the reason many of them changed back - they got tired of it!!

Ns04