just fitted ported/wrapped headers!!!!!!
#1
just fitted ported/wrapped headers!!!!!!
as above just fitted these and a custom u/p WOW quite a difference, though it did take the SUBARU garage 6hrs to do it???. seems more progressive through the gears and it seems to of got rid of some lag as well. a worth while investment i think.. anyone else had this done and if so what do you think of the results........
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Hopefully yours are all fitted properly. When I had a ported/heatwrapped set fitted to mine you could physically hear them leaking when cold. Subaru4you are going to take a look at them and fit them properly.
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#8
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Must be porting season... Just done mine.
I'm fortunate in having access to a die-grinder and tungsten carbide cutting tools at work.
It took only about 30mins to remove the manifold off the car, then a couple of hours to rough cut the ports back to the gasket line and remove the heat shield lugs with an angle grinder. The ports were then smoothed with a flap wheel, and it seemed rude not to make use of the shot-blaster at work, to clean the whole lot up before applying a few coats of high temp. paint and 100ft x 1" of heat wrap. the o.e. heat shield was then replaced over the wrap on the staight flexi-pipe.
Replacing the manifold requires bolting it loosely together until you have the two collectors secured to the cylinder heads, then you're able to tighten everything else up and it'll all pull together nicely. Replaced all gaskets with new, though could probably re-use the originals with no issues.
I'm fortunate in having access to a die-grinder and tungsten carbide cutting tools at work.
It took only about 30mins to remove the manifold off the car, then a couple of hours to rough cut the ports back to the gasket line and remove the heat shield lugs with an angle grinder. The ports were then smoothed with a flap wheel, and it seemed rude not to make use of the shot-blaster at work, to clean the whole lot up before applying a few coats of high temp. paint and 100ft x 1" of heat wrap. the o.e. heat shield was then replaced over the wrap on the staight flexi-pipe.
Replacing the manifold requires bolting it loosely together until you have the two collectors secured to the cylinder heads, then you're able to tighten everything else up and it'll all pull together nicely. Replaced all gaskets with new, though could probably re-use the originals with no issues.
Last edited by s5ooob; 18 September 2007 at 08:55 PM.
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I had a set of Harvey's headers and it made a great difference for the money. He does porting on an exchange basis for about £125, or about another £100 if you want them wrapped. I also fitted his £135 up-pipe later on which also made a good difference to spool and power delivery.
Would recommend ported headers to anyone.
Would recommend ported headers to anyone.
#14
I had a set of Harvey's headers and it made a great difference for the money. He does porting on an exchange basis for about £125, or about another £100 if you want them wrapped. I also fitted his £135 up-pipe later on which also made a good difference to spool and power delivery.
Would recommend ported headers to anyone.
Would recommend ported headers to anyone.
#15
what a load of ****e,who the hell is going to see them you complete t*t. and they do make a difference....... you obviously havnt had this done
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Ooops, obvioulsy upset him then!
They do make a difference on the car, having them ported that is. The finish above is probably a little over the top. You need them smooth just not that smooth thats all. I'm not saying that it hurts the gas flow, just that the gains (if any) of smoothing to that extent over the relatively smooth finish from a tungsten carbide cutter are not worth the extra effort.
Wayne.
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I think it's the removal of the lip on the headers where the headers and cylinder head don't match up that makes 95% of the difference.
Nice job above though!
I'd also recommend Harvey's up-pipe.
Anders
Nice job above though!
I'd also recommend Harvey's up-pipe.
Anders
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Yes, there are two types of flow, "laminar boundary layer" where each 'layer' of flow goes slightly faster the further from the wall/surface you get, all that shearing of the airflow causes more resistance than "turbulent boundary layer" where the flow right at the surface is unstable and random but creates less restriction the further from the wall/surface you get. A slight roughness to the wall encourages turbulent boundary layer flow, although to be honest that close to the valve there is probably plenty of energy in the flow to keep it doing that for a way downstream!
Simon
Simon