Oil top-up question
#1
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Oil top-up question
I was checking th Scoob's fluid levels this afternoon and noticed that the oil level was near the min mark on the dipstick. I phoned the garage I bought it from to ask what they put in when they serviced it and they informed me that it was a fully synth
What with it being fairly late I whizzed round a few places to see what I could get hold of and the best I could come up with is some Castrol Edge 0W-40.
As it's just a litre top up, am I OK putting this in?
What with it being fairly late I whizzed round a few places to see what I could get hold of and the best I could come up with is some Castrol Edge 0W-40.
As it's just a litre top up, am I OK putting this in?
#5
As a top-up it really does not matter what make you use.
I use whatever fully synth I can find, but my engine uses very little between changes anyway.
I use whatever fully synth I can find, but my engine uses very little between changes anyway.
Last edited by davedipster; 16 December 2006 at 05:12 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by davedipster
Shell sell helix fully and semi synth in their garages, ideal as a top up.
yep, used shell helix 10w40 semi-synthetic for 3years/30,000 miles and worked fine. Oil always sat on the MIN mark when cold. If you check when the engine is warm and it should be on MAX.
I had a WRX03.
#7
your right. when mine is cold just over half way. sounds ok to me.....
if i start it up leave it on tick over for 10 mins then let it cool down for 5 or so mins its basically around the half way mark.
Half way is prolly the best level to have it i recon... anyone else got any ideas??
if i start it up leave it on tick over for 10 mins then let it cool down for 5 or so mins its basically around the half way mark.
Half way is prolly the best level to have it i recon... anyone else got any ideas??
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Just make sure you're getting a proper reading before topping up as scoobs are notoriously difficult to read properly if not done correctly..!
The most accurate/consistent way I know of is to check first thing (after the engine has stood overnight) by removing the dipstick and wiping then leaving out (or half way) for 5-10 mins before dipping and checking. This allows the oil that 'wicks' up the tube (and is held their by the vacuum the dipstick creates) drain back into the sum instead of smearing the reading IYSWIM..?
A similar result can be achieved immediately by blowing down the tube with a short piece of hosepipe then checking..
BTW Make sure the dipstick is the correct way around (ie the oil can on handle is right way up) as this apparently can make a difference..
I'm sure Pissy will be along soon to brand this as ****..
The most accurate/consistent way I know of is to check first thing (after the engine has stood overnight) by removing the dipstick and wiping then leaving out (or half way) for 5-10 mins before dipping and checking. This allows the oil that 'wicks' up the tube (and is held their by the vacuum the dipstick creates) drain back into the sum instead of smearing the reading IYSWIM..?
A similar result can be achieved immediately by blowing down the tube with a short piece of hosepipe then checking..
BTW Make sure the dipstick is the correct way around (ie the oil can on handle is right way up) as this apparently can make a difference..
I'm sure Pissy will be along soon to brand this as ****..
#9
I check my oil around 30 mins after its been stood once driven. At that point the level sits between L and F. When cold this shows as L. As far as which oil to use any oil is better than none. Ideally oil of same viscosity and same quality as that in the sump. ie semi / fully synthetic.
#10
Originally Posted by jasonius
Just make sure you're getting a proper reading before topping up as scoobs are notoriously difficult to read properly if not done correctly..!
The most accurate/consistent way I know of is to check first thing (after the engine has stood overnight) by removing the dipstick and wiping then leaving out (or half way) for 5-10 mins before dipping and checking. This allows the oil that 'wicks' up the tube (and is held their by the vacuum the dipstick creates) drain back into the sum instead of smearing the reading IYSWIM..?
A similar result can be achieved immediately by blowing down the tube with a short piece of hosepipe then checking..
BTW Make sure the dipstick is the correct way around (ie the oil can on handle is right way up) as this apparently can make a difference..
I'm sure Pissy will be along soon to brand this as ****..
The most accurate/consistent way I know of is to check first thing (after the engine has stood overnight) by removing the dipstick and wiping then leaving out (or half way) for 5-10 mins before dipping and checking. This allows the oil that 'wicks' up the tube (and is held their by the vacuum the dipstick creates) drain back into the sum instead of smearing the reading IYSWIM..?
A similar result can be achieved immediately by blowing down the tube with a short piece of hosepipe then checking..
BTW Make sure the dipstick is the correct way around (ie the oil can on handle is right way up) as this apparently can make a difference..
I'm sure Pissy will be along soon to brand this as ****..
#11
Mine has two holes, one for Min and one for Max and then a groove above them both which is for the maximum level when the oil is hot (as it expands)
I always have mine spot on the upper hole when checking it in the morning so it is stone cold and has had all night to drain into the sump. I use the Fully Sythetic Shell Helix and barley use a drop between 5k mile services.
I always have mine spot on the upper hole when checking it in the morning so it is stone cold and has had all night to drain into the sump. I use the Fully Sythetic Shell Helix and barley use a drop between 5k mile services.
#12
Magnatec?
My car (my98uk) has used Magnatec since new,I read on here once this oil is not the best for a turbo. Can anyone suggest an alternative, full or semi-synthetic and which make? Cheers, Mick.
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