what is the point of a strut brace??
#2
To stiffen across the struts, lessening movement under loading.
In reality I doubt anyone would notice the difference between having one and not on a road car as there is so much give in other areas.
Dave
In reality I doubt anyone would notice the difference between having one and not on a road car as there is so much give in other areas.
Dave
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You can fit it yourself in around 20 mins. Just undo the nuts either side, on top of the struts under the bonnet, think its 3 either side, then fit the strutbrace, and refit and tighten the nuts! All JDM STi's have them fitted as standard from the factory. Another kick in the teeth for Type UK owners.
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#8
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^^^ Wot 'e said
The chassis on new-age Scoobs is so stiff that you have to have significantly modified many other parts before chassis flex will become noticeable. Do the rear ARB and links and get a good geo set-up for the best initial results for little expenditure.
The chassis on new-age Scoobs is so stiff that you have to have significantly modified many other parts before chassis flex will become noticeable. Do the rear ARB and links and get a good geo set-up for the best initial results for little expenditure.
#10
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The bright silver bar you can see is the ARB, which transfers load from one side of the car to the other through torsional force. The thicker it is, the less susceptable to the rotational torsion applied by the cornering weight transfer of the vehicle, and thus the car stays flatter through the corner. This minimises centrefugal weight transfer and maintains better tyre to surface alignment to give greater grip. The bar illustrated is also adjustable. If you look closely at the end where it is bolted there are 3 holes. Working on leverage, the hole closest you will have less leverage on the bar and make it stiffer in operation. The hole furthest away increases leverage thus making it easier to apply torsion. The pic shows a car with it on the middle setting. In truth the majority of people whom have fitted these have never adjusted them later. I did and found that the stiffer setting suited my driving still significantly more.
Gold coloured "C" shaped thing is the droplink. The OE ones fitted to a Scoob are plastic and prone to flexing, reducing the amount of force they transfer to the ARB. The have also been known to break, hence the use of stronger alloy or steel versions.
Last edited by corradoboy; 18 October 2006 at 12:55 PM.
#12
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The car will get more roly and will understeer more. You can drive without a rear ARB and links (some non-turbo classics don't) but it won't handle very well at all.
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Originally Posted by GC8
A non-braced (triangulated to the firewall/bulkhead) strut-brace is of virtually no use anyway.
#15
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Originally Posted by corradoboy
The bright silver bar you can see is the ARB, which transfers load from one side of the car to the other through torsional force. The thicker it is, the less susceptable to the rotational torsion applied by the cornering weight transfer of the vehicle, and thus the car stays flatter through the corner. This minimises centrefugal weight transfer and maintains better tyre to surface alignment to give greater grip. The bar illustrated is also adjustable. If you look closely at the end where it is bolted there are 3 holes. Working on leverage, the hole closest you will have less leverage on the bar and make it stiffer in operation. The hole furthest away increases leverage thus making it easier to apply torsion. The pic shows a car with it on the middle setting. In truth the majority of people whom have fitted these have never adjusted them later. I did and found that the stiffer setting suited my driving still significantly more.
Gold coloured "C" shaped thing is the droplink. The OE ones fitted to a Scoob are plastic and prone to flexing, reducing the amount of force they transfer to the ARB. The have also been known to break, hence the use of stronger alloy or steel versions.
Did you install these yourself? That evap canister location makes it such a PITA!
#16
It's simple to get the ARB's on, do it on ramps or on the ground though as it's easyer with weight on the wheels.
Shouldn't take longer than 30mins if your spanners have been out the packet a few times before.
Dave
Shouldn't take longer than 30mins if your spanners have been out the packet a few times before.
Dave
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so my wrx already has a rear arb, it is just not as good as the uprated ones... likewise with the droplinks. Where is the best place to buy these and how much are they to install? Any tips and tricks on installing the drivers side if it si a pain?
Rob
Rob
#19
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Best use I found for a strut brace was on my old Clio 16v - brilliant for when you're working on a hot engine and you need something safe to lean on. No doubt there is some benefit to be had, but it does vary a lot from car to car. From what I've heard so far, Scoobies don't really need one. If you think about it, the strut tops are so close to the bulkhead anyway, they can't add much rigidity. In some cars the struts are halfway down the wing, where a brace would add some lateral rigidity, although without being triangulated, there's still movement there.
#20
Noticed alot off difference in handling after installing one of my 3 strut braces, no doubt. Also have whiteline drop links, poly bushes, whiteline anti roll bar, upper and lower front strut brace, and lower rear. And the car handles like a dream. That and some proxe's
#21
Originally Posted by sirscooby
Any tips and tricks on installing the drivers side if it si a pain?
Rob
Rob
Don't bother imo unless you want to race the car. the bar it's self is easy to fit, as are droplinks.
Demon tweeks or mocom racing would be a couple of places to start.. Ebay..
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For strut braces to work properly they need to be fitted top and bottm and triangulated against the firewall/bulkhead. Of more use is the seldom seen (or known about; for that read: seldom has bull**** perpetuated about on BBSs by people who donbt really understand what theyre repeating) inner wing brace, thats fitted to the outside of the inner wing; bracing it against firewall. They make a real difference on both Classics and New Age cars but they take a good deal of fitting and you cant show them off in McDonalds carpark!
Simon
Simon
#23
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Originally Posted by GC8
A non-braced strut-brace is of virtually no use anyway.
Oh, and showing off to m8's!
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An interesting Q&A session with Damian Harty from Prodrive here. https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...ons-forum.html
Have a look at post #9.
Have a look at post #9.
#28
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Originally Posted by GREGGYG
All JDM STi's have them fitted as standard from the factory. Another kick in the teeth for Type UK owners.
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quick question on the strut brace thing. my old classic wrx had one fitted that looked standard with all the jap writing on a label around it. was it just sti or was it wrx models too which had them standard...
andy
andy
#30
Originally Posted by Robocop
An interesting Q&A session with Damian Harty from Prodrive here. https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...ons-forum.html
Have a look at post #9.
Have a look at post #9.
Thanks for sticking it up here.
Dave