Ever Painted Your Own Car??
#1
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Ever Painted Your Own Car??
Diy styley?
i have spent a fortune over the years at various body shops and have never been happy with the end results, i "thought" the red paint around the back end of my car was quite good, until after around 2 years it started flaking off where it was not keyed properly
2/3 mates have all had paint jobs done quite recently and there all crap IMO
i want to paint my car myself, my thinking is as long as there is enough paint on there, all defects can be pretty much buffed out afterwards.
so far i have started acquiring parts, i have access to a massive compressor, after checking it it does not look like it has a water trap fitted, i found a few sealey ones online for around £15
i have bought a gravity feed spray gun, 50 metres of air line hose and i have access to a dust free makeshift booth, most people i have spoken to have shown disproving looks but the worst i can do is end up paying somebody to respray it anyway,
i plan to practise on my old mid level rear spoiler and a spare front wing i have, to i get the hang of the gun, the car will be painted standard feather white, which i am told is an easy enough colour to paint
i can use the old rattle cans up with the best of them, from what i am told, spraying with a proper gun is much easier ??
i understand that 2k paint is out of my reach without all the proper safety gear.
the car is nealy 10 year old and its "worth" is dropping rapidly, so spending 2k on a "pro" paintjob is wasted IMO
i have spent a fortune over the years at various body shops and have never been happy with the end results, i "thought" the red paint around the back end of my car was quite good, until after around 2 years it started flaking off where it was not keyed properly
2/3 mates have all had paint jobs done quite recently and there all crap IMO
i want to paint my car myself, my thinking is as long as there is enough paint on there, all defects can be pretty much buffed out afterwards.
so far i have started acquiring parts, i have access to a massive compressor, after checking it it does not look like it has a water trap fitted, i found a few sealey ones online for around £15
i have bought a gravity feed spray gun, 50 metres of air line hose and i have access to a dust free makeshift booth, most people i have spoken to have shown disproving looks but the worst i can do is end up paying somebody to respray it anyway,
i plan to practise on my old mid level rear spoiler and a spare front wing i have, to i get the hang of the gun, the car will be painted standard feather white, which i am told is an easy enough colour to paint
i can use the old rattle cans up with the best of them, from what i am told, spraying with a proper gun is much easier ??
i understand that 2k paint is out of my reach without all the proper safety gear.
the car is nealy 10 year old and its "worth" is dropping rapidly, so spending 2k on a "pro" paintjob is wasted IMO
#3
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this is my plan of attack at the moment
sort rear bootshuts and rear door shuts, then start at one side of the car, work my way backwards and around the rear, traveling back towards the front wing.
with the car being feather white i know its not going to be possible to blend in the new paint around the sides, so the whole sides will need painted.
so working one panel at a time should be the best plan, instead of trying to do the full lot in one session?
then leave it for a week or so, flat it back and buff/polish...........
there is only 2 dents that need sorted, one is in the back quarter near the tail light after i nudged a van the other is a front wing which i planed to replace anyway, so that's not a problem i suppose
sort rear bootshuts and rear door shuts, then start at one side of the car, work my way backwards and around the rear, traveling back towards the front wing.
with the car being feather white i know its not going to be possible to blend in the new paint around the sides, so the whole sides will need painted.
so working one panel at a time should be the best plan, instead of trying to do the full lot in one session?
then leave it for a week or so, flat it back and buff/polish...........
there is only 2 dents that need sorted, one is in the back quarter near the tail light after i nudged a van the other is a front wing which i planed to replace anyway, so that's not a problem i suppose
#4
Sounds like a plan...
I agree with Baggers, it's all about the prepwork and finishing. Get a decent cutting compound to finish it off, I forget what my brother uses (he's done 2 complete cars at home) but it really makes all the difference. Good luck with it!
I agree with Baggers, it's all about the prepwork and finishing. Get a decent cutting compound to finish it off, I forget what my brother uses (he's done 2 complete cars at home) but it really makes all the difference. Good luck with it!
#5
are u mad if you dont paint it all in one go it will be different shades and it will
end up costing you more than 2k too put i right
end up costing you more than 2k too put i right
Last edited by scoobyphil2000; 03 July 2006 at 04:50 PM.
#7
Go for it
Go for it mate, im just about to paint my fto myself though my dad was a spray painter now retired so has passed some knowledge.
If you practice enough a standard colour aint that hard to do, prep, prep and prep is the main thing.
If you dont do you preperation if will show through on your base coat.
Im using a new water based paint which is Isocyanate free, check out
http://www.paints4u.com
Im using a white base coat before my main metallic coat then a good few coats of 1K Smart Clear.
Use a 3m mask especially when spraying the clear.
Costs about £50 a litre, you must spray when it warm as its an air drying system.
Good luck
Gordy
If you practice enough a standard colour aint that hard to do, prep, prep and prep is the main thing.
If you dont do you preperation if will show through on your base coat.
Im using a new water based paint which is Isocyanate free, check out
http://www.paints4u.com
Im using a white base coat before my main metallic coat then a good few coats of 1K Smart Clear.
Use a 3m mask especially when spraying the clear.
Costs about £50 a litre, you must spray when it warm as its an air drying system.
Good luck
Gordy
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#8
As stated above the main thing is the preperation.
Make sure everything is rubbed down properly, and that it is worth using the wipes that get rid of the silicone, as this is an **** it there are any traces of it.
And mask the bits up well that aren't being sprayed obviously.
Takes a long time, but is worth it in the end.
Make sure everything is rubbed down properly, and that it is worth using the wipes that get rid of the silicone, as this is an **** it there are any traces of it.
And mask the bits up well that aren't being sprayed obviously.
Takes a long time, but is worth it in the end.
#9
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so i spray 1 panel, then the next, then the next and it all turns a different colour????
even if it is from the same batch of paint???
even if it is from the same batch of paint???
#10
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Originally Posted by scoobyphil2000
are u mad if you dont paint it all in one go it will be different shades and it will
end up costing you more than 2k too put i right
end up costing you more than 2k too put i right
#11
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I brush painted my old MK1 Escort, it looked the biz
seriously, if painting properly you can end up with a finish like glass
Don't think I'll be painting my Scoob though!!
seriously, if painting properly you can end up with a finish like glass
Don't think I'll be painting my Scoob though!!
#13
I taught myself to spray about 10yrs ago after becoming fed up of the sub standard jobs from body shops. Just take your time, preparation takes the most time but is the most important stage. If using 2k paints dont forget to get yourself a mask with gas vapor filters in it and spray outside or in a well ventilated area, I made myself very poorly spraying 2k in a confined space. You also need a good quality buffer, not the type with 2 handles on top they are crap, get a proper buffer (looks like a big angle grinder but has variable speed). Its really hard to make a mess of solid colours as you can always flat it back and buff if you got enough paint on. I use faraclea g3 compound to start with and then finish of with g10, this should give you a finish like glass after a few hours of carefull buffing. Once finished there's nothing like standing back and admiring the cracking job you've done .
Last edited by fallwood; 03 July 2006 at 08:14 PM.
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Originally Posted by fallwood
I taught myself to spray about 10yrs ago after becoming fed up of the sub standard jobs from body shops. Just take your time, preparation takes the most tme but is the mots important stage. If using 2k paints dont forget to get yourself a mask with gas vapor filers in it and spray outside or in a well ventilated area, I made myself very poorly spraying 2k in a confined space. You also need a good quality buffer, not the type with 2 handles on top they are crap, get a proper buffer (looks like a big angle grinder but has variable speed). Its really hard to make a mess of solid colours as you can always flat it back and buff if you got enough paint on. I use faraclea g3 compound to start with and then finish of with g10, this should give you a finish like glass after a few hours of carefull buffing. Once finished there's nothing like standing back and admiring the cracking job you've done .
saw lots of people getting nosebleeds and stuff due to over spray and always had chapped and dry lips, the stuff is evil!!!
to be honest, i will probably be buying a porter cable buffer anyway, as it can make me extra cash at work
#15
Yep, I always have a dodgy throat after doing a full spray job even when wearing my air fed mask. The porter cable buffer looks like a good un, very similar to my makita. Dont go at it full speed to start with as its quite easy to burn/buff through the paint, I use an old flash spray bottle filled with soapy water to keep the area im buffing nice and wet. Start slowly and when you've got the knack of it you can buff a whole car in about 40 mins.
Last edited by fallwood; 03 July 2006 at 08:21 PM.
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I've painted two of my cars myself. Painted my mini first over 10 years ago, and that came out cracking. Even without a mop afterwards. I then painted a Nova 8 years ago now! The car was only 2 years old at the time, and the passenger side door got damaged. A local paintshop did the door for me, but I was never happy with the slightly different shade of red the door was afterwards. I painted the whole car, and that came out fine. The important advice is, as others have said, prep, prep & more prep. The painting is the quick easy bit. The preperation is definatley the key!
Proby
Proby
#18
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stuff acquired and ordered
spray gun
50foot airline
airline fittings
moisture trap for compressor
panel wipe = 5ltrs
scotchbrite pads = various
sanding blocks = 10 various
brown masking paper = 60foot roll
tack cloths = cant remember how many now ??
stuff i need
front wing, paint and thinners
is antibloom thinners ok? or does the antboom part cause more problems then its worth?
spray gun
50foot airline
airline fittings
moisture trap for compressor
panel wipe = 5ltrs
scotchbrite pads = various
sanding blocks = 10 various
brown masking paper = 60foot roll
tack cloths = cant remember how many now ??
stuff i need
front wing, paint and thinners
is antibloom thinners ok? or does the antboom part cause more problems then its worth?
#19
i painted my first car in celly paint.......took me two attempts and it was still ****e haha
kinda got it sussed now but i havent had need to paint a car since.
if your doing it in your own garage remember to keep the floor as damp as possible, and tis all in the prep. if you can feel it youll see it when painted!
kinda got it sussed now but i havent had need to paint a car since.
if your doing it in your own garage remember to keep the floor as damp as possible, and tis all in the prep. if you can feel it youll see it when painted!
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pratice first till you get it right dont stand to far away from what your spraying or the paint drys in the air before it hits the car and gives a dusty dull look spray to the point its looks like its about to run then stop that will give a nice flat shine but dont jump in feet first and mess the car up i got some cheap car panels to play with because flat and curved are very diffrent
#22
oh yeah forgot to say get ready to have dodgy coloured snot for about a week haha
2 pac is pretty lethal as well.......
remember to keep gun at the same distance on all panels! no too close then too far away etc.....takes some doing
i nearly painted whole garage door to get hang of it
2 pac is pretty lethal as well.......
remember to keep gun at the same distance on all panels! no too close then too far away etc.....takes some doing
i nearly painted whole garage door to get hang of it
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