Piston slap newage STI
02 June 2006, 07:02 PM
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Piston slap newage STI
Can anyone give me advice on piston slap on a 2002sti car has 34000 with FSSH
Have looked at the cam belt tensioner but am 99% sure it is not this
Noise is there from cold every morning more noticeable in the cabin, clears in about 5 minutes of driving, disappears above 2000rpm, with a screw driver on the block a loud knocking can be heard.
Where do I stand with Subaru UK as it is 6 months out of warranty?
I understand this is a manufacturing fault so warranty has nothing to do with it?
Anyone had piston slap on a newage car? I thought this problem was addressed years ago (my98/99)
Any advice greatly appreciated
Have looked at the cam belt tensioner but am 99% sure it is not this
Noise is there from cold every morning more noticeable in the cabin, clears in about 5 minutes of driving, disappears above 2000rpm, with a screw driver on the block a loud knocking can be heard.
Where do I stand with Subaru UK as it is 6 months out of warranty?
I understand this is a manufacturing fault so warranty has nothing to do with it?
Anyone had piston slap on a newage car? I thought this problem was addressed years ago (my98/99)
Any advice greatly appreciated
02 June 2006, 07:05 PM
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If the car has an issue after 34000 miles I would take it back and play merry hell....... dont take no for an answer and if the dealer wont help speak to the UK customer service dept. These people have the authority to give you a percentage of the repair work money required. Friend got 90% of his rear shock money back after 4 years and 40K on a Mondeo recently
02 June 2006, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dr jim
Can anyone give me advice on piston slap on a 2002sti car has 34000 with FSSH
Have looked at the cam belt tensioner but am 99% sure it is not this
Noise is there from cold every morning more noticeable in the cabin, clears in about 5 minutes of driving, disappears above 2000rpm, with a screw driver on the block a loud knocking can be heard.
Where do I stand with Subaru UK as it is 6 months out of warranty?
I understand this is a manufacturing fault so warranty has nothing to do with it?
Anyone had piston slap on a newage car? I thought this problem was addressed years ago (my98/99)
Any advice greatly appreciated
Have looked at the cam belt tensioner but am 99% sure it is not this
Noise is there from cold every morning more noticeable in the cabin, clears in about 5 minutes of driving, disappears above 2000rpm, with a screw driver on the block a loud knocking can be heard.
Where do I stand with Subaru UK as it is 6 months out of warranty?
I understand this is a manufacturing fault so warranty has nothing to do with it?
Anyone had piston slap on a newage car? I thought this problem was addressed years ago (my98/99)
Any advice greatly appreciated
Is it modified at all
I have what i think is piston slap, but it lasts for about 2-3 seconds when i start it from cold.
02WRX
02 June 2006, 07:12 PM
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Car is going to dealer Monday but unfortunately I purchased this car of an independent dealer who’s is not very helpful to say the least.
Just wondered if any one else has had piston slap on a new age out of warranty and the outcome with Subaru
Just wondered if any one else has had piston slap on a new age out of warranty and the outcome with Subaru
02 June 2006, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cookstar
Is it modified at all
I have what i think is piston slap, but it lasts for about 2-3 seconds when i start it from cold.
02WRX
I have what i think is piston slap, but it lasts for about 2-3 seconds when i start it from cold.
02WRX
02 June 2006, 07:57 PM
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Sounds similar to the symptoms mine is showing.
Only difference is that mine is random. Some days it does it, others it doesn't.
Mine is covered by a very good warranty still (MY01 WRX) so i'll definately be getting it looked at before the warranty runs out.
I'll be very interested to hear what the outcome of yours is.
Other than the noise mine runs and performs fantastic.
Only difference is that mine is random. Some days it does it, others it doesn't.
Mine is covered by a very good warranty still (MY01 WRX) so i'll definately be getting it looked at before the warranty runs out.
I'll be very interested to hear what the outcome of yours is.
Other than the noise mine runs and performs fantastic.
02 June 2006, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bugeyeandy
Sounds similar to the symptoms mine is showing.
Only difference is that mine is random. Some days it does it, others it doesn't.
Mine is covered by a very good warranty still (MY01 WRX) so i'll definately be getting it looked at before the warranty runs out.
I'll be very interested to hear what the outcome of yours is.
Other than the noise mine runs and performs fantastic.
Only difference is that mine is random. Some days it does it, others it doesn't.
Mine is covered by a very good warranty still (MY01 WRX) so i'll definately be getting it looked at before the warranty runs out.
I'll be very interested to hear what the outcome of yours is.
Other than the noise mine runs and performs fantastic.
how long does it take to disapear?
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02 June 2006, 10:12 PM
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Mine is only really noticable when it's idling from cold. As soon as I start driving I can't hear it anymore. It also disappears completely even at idle after a couple of minutes.
It is more noticable from outside the car to be fair but if you rev the engine above 1.5 - 2k it stops completely.
Started doing it around November last year and hasn't got any worse since.
It is more noticable from outside the car to be fair but if you rev the engine above 1.5 - 2k it stops completely.
Started doing it around November last year and hasn't got any worse since.
02 June 2006, 11:03 PM
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I think i might have have had a touch of piston slap on my 52plated WRX but after i had the service it started to get less and less now i hardly hear it at all,in fact im not sure its there now.......strange
Have you changed the oil recently..?
Have you changed the oil recently..?
03 June 2006, 10:33 AM
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This is what was reccomended to me by oilman as the best oil for the newage sti are you saying this is the wrong oil and could be giving me the knocking noise on cold start ?
03 June 2006, 10:58 AM
#17
Sorry, but the 10w-40 advice for a NEW AGE acoob is information based on old advice based on older cars.
What you use currently is correct, as new ages specify THINNER oils than the older models, especially if the car is stock.
Cold start protection is denoted by the first digit of the oil visosity rating
So 5w is BETTER than 10w for this purpose. The latter two digits (i.e the "40") denotes the hot temperature viscoisty, so both oils have the same rating when at 100degrees C.
You should only listen to people who can back up their advice with reasoning, not with what they heard - it can be a real problem on this board at times.
As for your piston slap, it depends how bad it sounds, many cars display piston slap from cold. It's not just Subarus. Taking into account the shallow piston skirt design, the piston is more likely to rattle around the bore if the bore/piston clearances aren't ideal (i.e just after a cold starting, where the different components and areas thermally expand at different rates).
My general rule is if it stops within 10mins, it's not a problem. However, this is based on the older engines, myself not really hearing of this issue on new ages yet. But I have seen other owners complain of excessive oil consumption with is also associated with piston/bore clearances and piston ring seating. It's an areas that needs to have an eye kept on it.
What you use currently is correct, as new ages specify THINNER oils than the older models, especially if the car is stock.
Cold start protection is denoted by the first digit of the oil visosity rating
So 5w is BETTER than 10w for this purpose. The latter two digits (i.e the "40") denotes the hot temperature viscoisty, so both oils have the same rating when at 100degrees C.
You should only listen to people who can back up their advice with reasoning, not with what they heard - it can be a real problem on this board at times.
As for your piston slap, it depends how bad it sounds, many cars display piston slap from cold. It's not just Subarus. Taking into account the shallow piston skirt design, the piston is more likely to rattle around the bore if the bore/piston clearances aren't ideal (i.e just after a cold starting, where the different components and areas thermally expand at different rates).
My general rule is if it stops within 10mins, it's not a problem. However, this is based on the older engines, myself not really hearing of this issue on new ages yet. But I have seen other owners complain of excessive oil consumption with is also associated with piston/bore clearances and piston ring seating. It's an areas that needs to have an eye kept on it.
Last edited by ALi-B; 03 June 2006 at 11:02 AM.
03 June 2006, 11:15 AM
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Strangley enough i had not heard the noise before i done the oil change. i only done this cause it had 10/40 magntec put in by the dealer and was advised to change it ASAP. Having had imprezas before i am well aware of piston slap as my 97 had it but was assured that it was not a problem on newage cars. before any one asks the oil change was done by me following the oil change steps i allways have used (i.e drain oil, fill new filter disconect crank sensor turn over till oil light goes out etc etc)
im just wondering if i should try a 15/50 ?
im just wondering if i should try a 15/50 ?
03 June 2006, 11:33 AM
#19
A thicker oil when cold may quieten down piston slap simply as thicker oil will leave a thicker film on the bore and cushion the piston when it makes contact with the bore - the clearance issue is still there, it is meerly masking it (that is, presuming what you are hearing is piston slap and not some other problem). But you may also find the top end may end up tapping like a bag of spanners for the first few seconds on start up, especially on cold days. 
The reason people use 15w/50 oil is not to cure noise - it's becuase they drive so hard and agressively, or have modifications that cause oil temperature to be excessivly high, to which a 40 grade oil does not cope with as well. 15w/50 is worse for cold use, due to its 15w cold rating.
The reason people use 15w/50 oil is not to cure noise - it's becuase they drive so hard and agressively, or have modifications that cause oil temperature to be excessivly high, to which a 40 grade oil does not cope with as well. 15w/50 is worse for cold use, due to its 15w cold rating.
03 June 2006, 12:44 PM
#20
I would take it to Subaru, the oil is the correct one, in fact 5w-30 can be used as well but this would have no effect on the cold performance as they are both 5w oils, merely the hot viscosity.
Thick oil can mask noises but they are no fix and unless used on the correct circumstances can in fact be the cause of many problems, the main one being premature engine wear.
If the noise dissapears then I would personally not be too worried but 34k does sound a little premature if it is a mechanical issue. Are the newage scoobs prone to this or is it a case of a Friday car?
Cheers
Simon
Thick oil can mask noises but they are no fix and unless used on the correct circumstances can in fact be the cause of many problems, the main one being premature engine wear.
If the noise dissapears then I would personally not be too worried but 34k does sound a little premature if it is a mechanical issue. Are the newage scoobs prone to this or is it a case of a Friday car?
Cheers
Simon
04 June 2006, 09:55 AM
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My last WRX 03 did it from 1600miles up to 28k when I sold it.I must admit it doesnt sound right but after many postings and a few trips back to dealer i just learned to live with it.
06 June 2006, 07:28 PM
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UPDATE:
Had car in at dealers today.........And confirmed marginal piston slap nearside rear cylinder
.
The dealer thinks that subaru UK will not fix it FOC as the warrenty has expired (7 months ago) even though the car has only 34000mile and FSSH. The car came with a 12month warrenty from the idependent dealer i brought it from 5 weeks ago but when i contacted there claims line they were not very helpfull saying the engine had more than likley been thrashed ! and it would not be covered because the warrenty only covers mechanical failure even though the pistons are covered with a claim limit of £1000.00. Any adivice guys ? what i am i looking at to put this right ? or should i just leave it alone ?
Had car in at dealers today.........And confirmed marginal piston slap nearside rear cylinder
. The dealer thinks that subaru UK will not fix it FOC as the warrenty has expired (7 months ago) even though the car has only 34000mile and FSSH. The car came with a 12month warrenty from the idependent dealer i brought it from 5 weeks ago but when i contacted there claims line they were not very helpfull saying the engine had more than likley been thrashed ! and it would not be covered because the warrenty only covers mechanical failure even though the pistons are covered with a claim limit of £1000.00. Any adivice guys ? what i am i looking at to put this right ? or should i just leave it alone ?
06 June 2006, 11:51 PM
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argue with them ,warranty is there for a reason. tell them to prove it was thrashed.dont give up mate if the engine goes you know its not going to be cheap.id be more anoide with the manafacturer really as this was common problem with the classic shape. i cant believe where still arguing the toss
what oil goes in a scoob ,id be more worried regarding the reliability.it would seem piston slap has happened with 5/10 grade oil anyway.would love to buy another scoob reading stuff like this puts you off.
what oil goes in a scoob ,id be more worried regarding the reliability.it would seem piston slap has happened with 5/10 grade oil anyway.would love to buy another scoob reading stuff like this puts you off.
07 June 2006, 08:28 AM
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You're unlikely to get the total amount paid for by Subaru but it's worth writing to their customer services/claims department.
I bought my 51 plate WRX in May 2005, 7 months outside warranty. It had FSSH and only 31k miles and a couple of months after I bought it (privately) I started having gearbox problems. It turned out to be play in the main shaft which caused damaged to most of the gears and synch mesh. This is a reasonably common problem with the newage 5-speed box and is recognised as a manufacturing defect.
The claims process is pretty hit and miss, it depends who you speak to (and whether they got laid the night before!). I was told they would probably go 50/50 with me and the total bill shouldn't be more than about £1500. I proceeded with the work and they only ended up paying about 1/3 of the bill (half the cost of the parts), with the final amount coming in at nearly £2300!!
They paid £700 and I paid just under £1600.
In hindsight, I would've taken it to API Engines, they would've rebuilt it for £800-£900 and they are very reputable with engine, transmissions work, etc.
My advice would be to pursue it through your independant dealer warranty first (don't forget you can involve the small claims court, or even better the industry watchdog/ombudsman). If it's definately recognised as a manufacturing defect, you may be able to agree something with Subaru claims department - but I wouldn't hold my breath.
If you need the contact details of the Subaru Customer Services manager, or someone of importance in Isuzu Motor Group, PM me.
I bought my 51 plate WRX in May 2005, 7 months outside warranty. It had FSSH and only 31k miles and a couple of months after I bought it (privately) I started having gearbox problems. It turned out to be play in the main shaft which caused damaged to most of the gears and synch mesh. This is a reasonably common problem with the newage 5-speed box and is recognised as a manufacturing defect.
The claims process is pretty hit and miss, it depends who you speak to (and whether they got laid the night before!). I was told they would probably go 50/50 with me and the total bill shouldn't be more than about £1500. I proceeded with the work and they only ended up paying about 1/3 of the bill (half the cost of the parts), with the final amount coming in at nearly £2300!!
They paid £700 and I paid just under £1600.
In hindsight, I would've taken it to API Engines, they would've rebuilt it for £800-£900 and they are very reputable with engine, transmissions work, etc.
My advice would be to pursue it through your independant dealer warranty first (don't forget you can involve the small claims court, or even better the industry watchdog/ombudsman). If it's definately recognised as a manufacturing defect, you may be able to agree something with Subaru claims department - but I wouldn't hold my breath.
If you need the contact details of the Subaru Customer Services manager, or someone of importance in Isuzu Motor Group, PM me.
07 June 2006, 07:12 PM
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Spoke to the warranty company today they want me to allow the garage to strip the engine so they can inspect the piston and then decide if they will pay for the claim if they dont im left with a engine in bits with a huge bill to pay!.
What they are saying if it is due to wear and tear we are not paying, if it is a mechanical failure we will.
So really need some advice of some experts, is piston slap due to wear & tear or is it classed as mechanical failure or a manufacturing defect ???
How can i get the warranty comapany to authorise repairs without stripping the engine seems like there is a get out clause for everthing.
This is a link to the warranty i got with the car http://www.portlandcarriage.com/warranty.htm
What they are saying if it is due to wear and tear we are not paying, if it is a mechanical failure we will.
So really need some advice of some experts, is piston slap due to wear & tear or is it classed as mechanical failure or a manufacturing defect ???
How can i get the warranty comapany to authorise repairs without stripping the engine seems like there is a get out clause for everthing.
This is a link to the warranty i got with the car http://www.portlandcarriage.com/warranty.htm
Last edited by dr jim; 07 June 2006 at 07:30 PM.
07 June 2006, 07:45 PM
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I have (and always had) a ticking sound from my engine (2002 STi). I have done over 20k (car done 34k) now but no issues. May be nothing to worry about. Mine has not got any worse or better and from what I have read before, this is common. not sure if this is what you are referring to though.
07 June 2006, 08:31 PM
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I had the same issue with my gearbox - I had to commit to 6 hours labour (~£350 IIRC) to strip the gearbox so that they could assess the problem before deciding whether to pay out.
Once stripped, you're pretty much committed to letting them fix it at their costs - otherwise you're left out of pocket and with a gearbox (or engine) in pieces and without the fault being fixed.
I'm not saying I was held to ransom, far from it, but I did feel I had few options once I found out the fault and the repair costs.
Once stripped, you're pretty much committed to letting them fix it at their costs - otherwise you're left out of pocket and with a gearbox (or engine) in pieces and without the fault being fixed.
I'm not saying I was held to ransom, far from it, but I did feel I had few options once I found out the fault and the repair costs.
07 June 2006, 09:20 PM
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The problem i have why do the warranty company need to strip the engine to see if the claim is valid. Surley they should be able to make there mind up before stripdown (you only have to listen to the engine from cold)
I still need to understand if piston slap is due to wear & tear or classed as a mechanical failure if its the latter i think they will have to cough up. But if this is a manufacturing fault i dont stand a chance and will have to go to subaru uk and as the car is out of warranty and i dont stand much chance.
Is there any experts who could comment on this please
I still need to understand if piston slap is due to wear & tear or classed as a mechanical failure if its the latter i think they will have to cough up. But if this is a manufacturing fault i dont stand a chance and will have to go to subaru uk and as the car is out of warranty and i dont stand much chance.
Is there any experts who could comment on this please