KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys when i get my car back hopefully this week i was thinking of making a heat shield for the induction kit i have ............has anyone done this and what designs have they made an also i wanna see pics ppl lol.......oh btw its on a 95 wrx

StudentScooby

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/DCP_0594.jpg

[Davey]

Unless you can COMPLETELY seal the induction cone from the rest of the engine bay they are a complete waste of time and will reduce power.

Stick with the air box and a decent high flow pannel filter.

StudentScooby

They sound nice though...

[Davey]

Are you serious?? You would fit one on the basis that it sounds nice?? That is the essence of Barry/Chav'ness.

StudentScooby

my nickname is barry

KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

its only the same reason you would buy an exauhst because it sounds nice ......it would be chav if it was on a saxo or a corsa

KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

ive only got mine because the chav before me decided to chuck the std air box away lol ...

[Davey]

An exhaust sounds louder generally because its less restrictive so I dont see your point?

You are better off getting a standard airbox on ebay.. Our WRX came with a chavy Blitz kit, got a standard air box complete with a HKS pannel filter for £7 on the bay.. sold the original waste of space for £60..

TonyFlow

In that case, would you mind explaining why when I fitted an induction kit to my car (power engineering bespoke K&N), it developed boost creep (cured only by porting the wastegate). It didnt do it when I had an uprated panel filter.

Surely the breathing must have been much improved to enable the boost creep (thus proving that induction kits can/do work)?

Car was a STi 5 Type R, with Ecutek Map, 3" decat/exhaust system

KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

my point is if you like the sound so what ....people buy exhausts because they sound good so why not filters..............

scoobfan

Above 350bhp they are reccomended, below that the preference is the origonal airbox with a high flow panel filter.

Rob

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Davey : Rather an extreme thing to say and definately not accurate.

If somebody that can post pictures on here would care to e-mail me I will send photographs of a fairly simple hot air divider that works well and ensures the cone filter breathes cold air.

That said, the OE airbox and stanard panel filter are not as bad as some people seem to think.

IPALMER

iTrader: (5)

here's my home made effort.

i made a cardboard template first , then cut a piece of aluminium from b & q (£10) . i covered the edges with a piece of rubber hosing split down the middle.

coupled with a mini-scoop on the bonnet over the cone , i'm sure it's getting cooler air than without it

KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

cool fair doos m8......with the bonnet induction scoop dont you get water on the filter through it

IPALMER

iTrader: (5)

yes, i expect so. all adds to the cooling effect i suppose

It doesnt ever seem particularly wet when i open the bonnet.

[Davey]

Extreme?? Considering an engine can consume several hundreds of gallons of air per minute I doubt putting a little piece of SS in between the air filter and the engine will stop it from drawing in hot air?? If you seriously believe it helps then your living in cloud coocoo land

scoobfan

Well I know who I would lay my money on for some sound advice, and it ain't you Davey.

You should listen to Harvey, he knows a fair bit about Impreza's

Rob

harvey

iTrader: (48)

IPALMER : As you have used aluminium and that is a very good conductor of heat, you will greatly improve your results if you clad the engine facing side with a bit of heat blanket (nice and shiney, use evostick or similar) or even exhaust heat wrap (not so nice looking) or both so there is no doubt about it and it still looks good.

[Davey] : Did you have a pointed hat and sit in the corner at school???
Just wondered?
People with a little imagination might think it is possible to devise some means to ensure it was better for cold air to enter the filter area than hot engine compartment air?
Yes/No?
Where does a cold air kit get its air from?
BTW my quick mental arithmetic says an engine will consume around 1100 gallons of air a minute at speed but I haven't sat down to calculate it.

Cookstar has some photos of an efficient system along with some narrative for those that need it. I expect he will come along soon and post it.

Rob :

Harvey.(living in cloud coocoo land)

KENSHIRO

iTrader: (2)

i asked for pics and ideas on my thread ......

sounds like we have another know it all on the forum .......next he will be moaning about dump valves and decals

the more cold air that you can introduce to any combustion engine the more efficently it will run ....

to be honest id rather rip the resonator box out an shove the filter down there ....like i did on the crx

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

These are some pics of the kit that HARVY does, in no particular order































Hope these are Ok mate

IPALMER

iTrader: (5)

thanks Harvey - a bit of heat insulation was the next project.
considering . .
Turbo blanket
Wrap for intercooler pipes (from turbo to intercooler)
manifold spacers
blanket on engine side of divider

Carlos13

This implies that I can buy such a kit? Harvey?

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

sorry didnt mean to imply anything there, was just posting pics up.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Thanks for putting these up for me Mark. You are a star. (pun intended)
The text with them :The car is not here for me to take specific photos so I am sending what I have and you can select the best of them. These photos were not intended to specifically show the divider.


"The divider is made of carbon fibre but as that is not a heat insulator it is clad with heat mat. The initial shape of the divider was derived from a blank piece of cardboard before the C.F. was cut.
The divider sits along the chasis rail and is very close to the bonnet underside. A rubber trim strip helps to reduce the gap.
To be successful it is necessary to increase cold air flow to the filter area from the front of the car. Remove the bonnet rubber above the driver head light. You can cut a gap between the radiator/FMIC and below the headlight. Enlarge the inner wing holes to the original snorkle/air box. Duct from the wedge. I use a brake air duct in front of the wheel, below the indicators which forces air into the inner wing area."
Harvey.

The car is not hear at present to photograph the current set up which is far tidier.

Use a sheet of cardboard to make an exact template before you cur the C.F. With care you can get a close fit to the filter/MAF (if you have one) /bonnet etc.

IPALMER : Do not wrap the pipe from the turbo compressor to the intercooler. It is the "hot pipe" and is above the surrounding air temperature. Wrap the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body. It is full of cold air and wants to stay that way.
Wrapping the turbo exhaust side will make an immediate big difference.

Hi Carlos : I do not do a kit as such but my own cars or some others that I work on have such an arrangement. The basic cardboard shape is always the same from the strut down to the chasis rail and along to the front cross panel, up to the bonnet and along the underside, back to the turret. For that I keep a template.
Once you have the C.F. basic shape nearly every car is individual after that.
I do keep a sheet of CF for my own projects and always have turbo blanket kits, heat blankets, exhaust wrap and watter wetter along with other heat products which I consider are essential for getting the best out of many modifications.

IPALMER

iTrader: (5)

thanks arvey.

I knew what i meant when i typed it , just got my words muddled up.

Iain