Spoiler

But...

Here is my problem...

Had a Bailey DV on my bugeye, would say the car ran better on the standard one... So switched back.....

I do however like the noise, so my problem, will any other DV make the car the same, was thinking of a forge to see if it was any better....

Would say the car was more "juddery", with the DV, smoother without...

As I say I'm not looking to fuel the "dump valves" argument, but after some sensible opinions please..

Thanks

EVOLUTION

all will be the same if they are a VTA valve

Try an uprated recirc one, i think, (not having used one before) you still get a noise from them, all be it a different not quite as loud noise


john

MattW

Better breathing will give you similar noise.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Remove the resonator from your airbox or get a cone filter and you'll get a whoosh noise from the orginal factory DV.

Spoiler

What is the "resonator"....

???

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Silencer Box under the fron bumper on the driver's side....use search

Spoiler

thanks......


Anyone use a DV on a newage without any problems!!..???

EVOLUTION

yes, and no. Very jerky and it got on my t1ts to be honest with you.


removered and standard recirc replaced and a smoothe ride once again

BedHog

I have a HKS SSQV dump valve on my Bugeye. No problems at all for the last 15K or so miles it's been fitted.

The only difference I noticed is that when I take my foot off the accelerator (when on boost) it decelerates instantly, where as before there was a slight delay before speed dropped. Hope that makes some sense......

I can't believe it would make your car run better or worse - it doesn't do anything 99.9% of the time. Unless of course it's fitted incorrectly and you are somehow losing pressure.

pslewis

Yes, I've read that removing the big airbox gives a nice sound without compromising the 'standard is best' facts

Pete

unfeasablylargegonads

iTrader: (3)

The bailey dump valve is not the best of the VTA dump valves, I know a couple of people who have had them and it turned out the spring rates where wrong so they where still venting small amounts of air when they should not have been, particualy causing idle issues.

EVOLUTION

im absolutly certain it recirculates the pressure for a reason though. Im not saying it could inflict damage, but that jerking when lifting off is caused by something

EVOLUTION

eh, removing the airbox, what on earth for?

BedHog

Supposedly - according to doom mongers - the air has already been metered so need to be recirculated and reused. Dumping it can cause the car to momentarily run rich.

I fail to see how this can be a major concern personally.

And it doesn't jerk - with the dump valve I think it behaves normally. The recirc felt weird where loosing the accelerator didn't immediately decrease power.

Just my opinion - I'm certainly no expert

BedHog

I believe my HKS SSQV actually somehow uses boost pressure to keep the valve closed so preventing any losses. You get what you pay for I suppose...

EVOLUTION

a bit of a general statement.


It may well not do it on your car, but it certaiinly did to mine, so much so it was removed and sold on. In fact, to another member on here, GRANBY, who may i add, has not had the problems either.

Since then, i bought an HKS SSQV, which did exactly the same thing, so again, it was removed.

Im not the first to mutter these finding, and in sure i wont be the last

BedHog

I can, of course, only comment on my own findings. What do you mean by jerk? All the dump valve does is release pressure from the intercooler (to protect the turbo) - ok I can see there is a difference between dumping to atmosphere and back into the airbox, but surely not a significant one?

BedHog

Peter believes that ALL mods are pointless because nothing can improve on what Subaru have fitted as standard.

sti-chris

I put a Forge dump valve on mine and have no problems what so ever.
i have an 03 STi.

EVOLUTION

by a jerk, i mean when backing off the throttle, its as if you jump off, not sure how to describe it.

bit like when your crawling along, in traffic and your in first. slowly accelarating then decelarating. best i can do im affraid

frayz

iTrader: (7)

I Run a HKS SSQV on my 02 STI with no probs at all

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

If you absolutely must have a VTA then the Forge one seems highly regarded. Personally, I'd leave the perfectly good st one on though.

Ns04

Elmer Fudpucker

By far the biggest jerk,is the one behind the steering wheel of dumb valve equipped car

p1doc

pmsl
martin

McWRX

I had exactly the same problem... car felt hesitant and jerky...

Took it back for a refund within 5 days and put the standard one on!!

Always when on WOT and backing off or ready to change gear, the car would feel like it was hitting a brick wall.

The place I bought it from had no problems taking it back as they have had a few people return them with the same issue!!

corradoboy

The resonator is in the O/S wing just behind the bumper and can be removed in under 1/2 an hour. Remove the ram-air scoop which conveniently draws in hot and mucky air from the engine bay and from in front of the radiator (well designed Subaru ) by removing the two visible bolts and pulling away from where it meets the wing. The plastic tube you can now see in the hole in the wing is the resonator. it is there for one purpose, to quieten down the induction to appease ordinary people who aren't impressed by such things, but in doing so it severely restricts airflow. A few mm to the right of the hole is a single 10mm bolt, remove. It is held in by just one more 10mm bolt which can be accessed either throught the foglight aperture (remove covers on STi's, or fog trim and light on WRX's) or by removing the headlight. The resonator itself is very big and needs to be extracted from the wing through the wheelarch. Remove the F/O/S wheel and loosen the arch liner by popping out some of the plastic pop-fittings underneath and you can easily pull it out. Once you've refitted all the fittings, seal up the holes left in the wing including packing out the wiring loom holes to ensure no hot air can be drawn into the wing. Remove the air filter and effect a seal around the gap between the airbox and the wing aperture to again stop it drawing in engine bay air. Duct tape is good for all the sealing. Replace the filter, preferably with a free flowing replacement panel such as JR Racing, Green or K&N (NOT ITG). Do no be tempted to duct air from the front of the car directly into the airbox with any kind of tubing. People who have done this have been known to kill MAF's due to the amount of water, oil and crap which overwhelms the airfilter. It works perfectly well just drawing in its air from the top of the wing whilst gravity keeps the crap at the bottom. On a WRX you can remove the fog trim and drill out a small triangle in the foglight mounting plate (soft plastic) to allow air to flow through the little vents in the surround which are just cosmetic.

This mod costs about £40 for the replacement (lifetime) filter and half an hour to do, and will ensure you continue to get the smooth running afforded by the OE recirc DV, but benefit from inducing lots of cool, clean air. The big bonus is a slighty improved spool-up, cooler running in traffic and the induction and DV will become audible.

HTH

lordretsudo

Thanks for posting that mr. corradoboy - it's something I'd been meaning to search for, as I remembered reading about it when I first got my Scooby.

Is it still worth changing the air filter when you have an STI? The standard STI filter is a good one isn't it? Or am I completely wrong?! Anyway, a job for my days off I think...

corradoboy

The STi doesn't have the STi air filter, just a normal Subaru paper disposable. The STi filter which retails IRO £40 is favoured by many, but was tested recently by Scoobymag IIRC and proven to have lower flow rates then the paper one. It is also a serviceable part, and so needs replacing every 10k, whereas the others I suggest are lifetime items. Personal choice, and anyone who wants to come on and justify their STi one feel free. I would go with one of the others myself.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

A little thought on this - they could have intended for it to be there - as there is space for a cold air duct (as seen fitted as standard on later models)..BUT:-

It might be because for maximum fuel efficiency - especially round town - HOT air is good, not mention the added heatsoak from the reversed airflow through the intercooler, hot air, less fuel, more mpg
However, when cruising at speed, the air temp behind the rad drops to roughly ambient, barring a few negligable degrees. Thus cool air, so more fuel, more power

Best of both


Some of the Jaguar nutcases had a longwinded debate about this many many years ago as to why the early XJ6, XJ12 and XJ-S all have the ram pipe air intakes situated right behind the radiator. Nobody knew for sure as to why they did it. But they all came to the conclusion that it was done for a very good reason.