mattmr216v

after a couple of months of my front wheels spinning and sort of banging etc, especially when trying to turn at full lock (not going fast, talking about 1-8 mpg here) i took it to a local mechanic...not a subaru guy, he knows **** all about scoobys, but he has told me that my diff is knackered (sti 4 type-R)

don't suppose it could be just a case of low oil etc?

How much am i looking for a new diff or rebuild of the centre diff etc?

I've been told it's 4k.

If so, i'm selling the bloody thing and getting a M3 or t/t supra.

Any help...VERY much appreciated

cheers
Matt

symon wrx

quaife do a front diff for £550 www.quaife.co.uk

Bob Rawle

This is probably the centre viscous diff that has gone, as a check, jack the front up, get a mate to stand by one front wheel and you the other, (hand brake on here). You should be able to slowly move both wheels in synchro with each other (independantly doesn't count). If you can then drive to warm up and repeat straight away, you will probably find its solid.

Mine went on the Sti5, it was going b4 TOTB2 and was shot by the event, relatively easy to change and doesn't even need the gear box out. I fitted an STi sport diff in replacement.

Car on ramp, remove prop, box x member and disconnect gear linkage, back of transfer box is held by a series of bolts, remove, there are two dowel pins at the top that need tapping thro', then the diff and sfaft assy come out with the box cover. Take to the bench and its easy to change.

cheers

bob

johnfelstead

Morning Bob.

Matt, your car is an STi4 TypeR with the DCCD centre diff system. What you describe is classic symptoms of you leaving the centre diff controller set to locked or partially locked.

Take a look at the centre diff setting (the LED display on the dash) Make sure the indicator is in the lowest green and not in any of the others, especially the yellow top 4. If it is displaying yellow, move the centre console dial backwards so the dash display turns to the lowest green then try it.

[Edited by johnfelstead - 12/25/2003 3:00:44 PM]

sKunk

Try taking it to someone who does know about scoobies.

simb 2

iTrader: (3)

John - Would you still get this 'juddering' with the diff wound 1 green box forward?

simb

Bob Rawle

Hi John, should read the whole post I suppose ... ah well at keast the info is there for anyone who has a centre VISCOUS diff problem. As you say symptomatic of wrong setting or a faulty control.

cheers

bob

wilno

Subaru Gatwick diagnosed a rear diff failure for me, V4 type R and quoted about £3500. It turned out (after 3 visits to a great company in Charlwood) to be a wheel bearing and hub making the noise. £350 has never been handed over so gratefully.

PS. On level ground, take handbrake off and shake each wheel in turn one might give exces. play. Not say its what I had but might save you a quid or two for the sake of five minutes. Good luck.

johnfelstead

It's good info Bob, until you had your centre diff swapped i wasnt aware it was such an easy job that didnt need the whole box out.

Yes you will near the upper end of the 2nd green setting. The green is suposed to represent it being OK with regards to judder at low speed, but the reality is that isnt quite correct.

The Centre diff control is an analogue control indicated by a digital display, a lot of people think it is a 6 stage control, it isnt, it's infinately variable between fully locked and fully open, so you can fine tune the settings even in the 6 displayed ranges.

If you are feeling this judder and you want to quickly release the lock, just lift the handbrake enough to light the handbrake warning light, that will fully open the centre diff without you adjusting the dial.

matty01

I've noticed a bit of knocking on full lock at car park speeds and read somewhere that scoobys (my98 uk car)do this a bit as normal ,is this the case please as i'm sure mines got worse or maybe its the greasy surfaces this time of year that is agravating the situation?

simb 2

iTrader: (3)

Thanks John.

simb