JV

I'm currently looking to buy a MY99/00 scooby and will be viewing my first one tonight.

I know this has been asked before but can anyone give me some ideas of things to look for and questions to ask when buying an Impreza? (Yes I've read the SIDC FAQs)

I've got the following from a fellow scoobyneter (SD):

Basics - check the V5, his address and the chassis and engine numbers match up. Check why he's selling it again just to make sure his story hasn't changed. Get an HPI check.
See if you can see it started from cold. Watch the exhaust for blue smoke on start-up.
Check the service history through and through. If possible phone up any previous owners to discuss the car and any probs they might have had with it.
See if you can drive it, or if insurance doesn't allow, make sure he drives you round properly in it. Get him to drive quickly and slowly and make sure the radio is off (he might use the music to cover up a noise) and make sure he isn't trying to distract you too much by talking too much as you go along. If you can drive it, try braking hard from 30-40mph to stop just to make sure it doesn't pull one way or other.
Check all the panel gaps for inconsistancies. Look along the side of the car for ripples/panel damage and to spot if it's not 'straight'. Look under the bonnet and remove the radiator cap. Check for 'mayonnaise' (signs of oil in the waterways, and possible a head gasket on the way out).
Check tyres for inconsistant wear across the width of the tread.
Don't be afraid to lift up the boot carpet and crawl around on the floor under/around the car to look for possible hidden accident damage.
Check that seat/steering wheel/gearknob wear is consistant with claimed mileage. Excessive wear could show it's been clocked.
Make sure you know the details of all modifications done to it.
Don't be afraid to walk away if you're not 100% happy with the car or the seller.


This is pretty sound advice but please could people give me idea of things to look at that are specific to an Impreza Turbo? Is there anything extra to check with if it's got the PPP?

Also, if it hasn't got an extended warranty is it worth getting an AA inspection done?

Cheers,
James

[Edited by JV - 4/3/2003 9:43:47 AM]

prodriva

If you do get to drive it stick it in 5th gear and at low revs 2/3k rpm put your foot down and it should pull cleanly. If the engine revs are not consistent with the gain in speed then the clutch is knackered and thats big bucks.

Apart from all the usual you will have picked up from the FAQ;

Check the boot, if its damp or better still has water in the spare wheel well, this will be an excellent bargaining tool. Its cheap as chips to sort out (re-seal the offside rear light cluster with silicone) but just look concerned and shocked if this is the case.

Make sure its got a full service history, better still a full Subaru service history and make sure its had its cam-belt changes where applicable.

If you notice anything that causes concern which doesnt get an adequate response from the seller then walk away, theres plenty of good ones out there to choose from.

If I think of any more I'll let you know.

barrybudden

Check the alloys for kerb dammage a badly kerbed alloy will be costly to replace.
When was the last service done and is it due a big one soon?
Also consider haveing a professional inspection carried out by the AA/RAC or someone like that just incase.

cheeseboy

JV - something I also like to ask for is to see their daily booklet. ie records of filling up, receits etc. I have such a book and keep excellent records of every time I fill up, where I was, all in sequential order. I also write in there when brakes / fluids etc were changed. This also then compliments the official records (that I am sure everyone keeps) from the dealer.

This sort of detail also shows up when say a lambda sensor is going, or your injectors need cleaning etc. Very interesting too. Also, if they havent got something like this then just shake your head... Puts the seller off balance.

Also, what is handy is to have a pen and paper handy and also say a picture of an exploded car showing all the panels. Get the GF to mark all dents, and problem areas on there for later examination. Also, it is handy to take along a piece of carpet and a strong torch - then you can lie down and check out under the car without hassles.

If you have a tyre pressure gauge handy (I keep one in the glove box), check all tires and see if they are set correctly. Not forgetting the spare tire. And with regard to fluids, check the level of the washer fluid. Someone who doesnt keep both the level and pressure correct obviously is a bit careless - and if they are selling this should be perfect.

If the car has aircon, try it out - if it doesnt blow nice hard cool air, then perhaps the gas needs to be topped up soon.

Other signs of wear come from examining the seat belts - pull all of them out and see how well they return - and look for wear. Also, check the pedals - high wear will be obvious here as the rubber pads show this instantly.

Also, make sure you see where the car is NORMALLY parked. Signs of oil leaks show up in the concrete - it is a perfect map to show up problems.

Make a check list and try everything. All the lights, buttons, etc etc.

Ask too what extras they have - winter tires etc etc. and look at them.

If you are happy with it take it - but never be afraid of walking away. Sometimes this is a good ploy too. A nervous seller may call your bluff by saying they have many other interested people - but YOU must be in control here. Also take note of their body language - an insecure person will shake your hand at the start like a dead fish. These types often still live with their mummies. Ask lots of questions - and make sure you get the same answer each time.

One last thing, it is a good idea to ask why the seller has the car for this price - see what sort of research they have done into this. Take along printouts of other cars you are also "interested in" - this will show you have an idea of the "right" price...

Happy hunting, err I mean buying.

Neal

JV

Thanks for the replies so far chaps, excellent advice.

Anymore suggestions? Perhaps we could create a definitive list of points to check when buying a Scooby!

NM

Just a few bits to add

Make sure the seller has all the key fobs and alarm fobs, if he hasnt walk away.

Drive the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dont be driven !!!!!!!!!

Drive it for min 10 miles incase there are any heat related problems.

And if you can, drive other scoobs so you can feel any differences.

Once you are happy ask the owner to drive the car to see how he drives it. If he drives slowly ask him to show you what the car can do. If you are not used to performance cars it will be a shock

Always take a friend along (not your Mrs) get him to ask the seller questions while you look around the car. Then change over you ask the questions while he looks just incase you have missed something.

If you have a digital camera take pictures for reference later.

Get the car HPi checked for accidents and outstanding finance

Take a tick list of all our comments and tick them off as you go round the car.

If you find any problems and they say its a simple fault to fix, ask yourself if it was so simple why havent they done it ?

If you have a Subaru dealership or performance car garage local to you ask if someone is available to look round the car with you. Or if you could drive it in to be checked over. It will cost you a few quid but far less than the RAC and AA.

At the end of the day if you are not sure walk away !!!! there are plenty more for sale, look at the For sale section !

Above all have fun

Cheers

Neal

chiark

Daily booklet? Records of filling up? You're not joking, are you? Eek!

Give the car a good check over, check it's straight, compare the price with others, and negotiate fairly. Bear in mind that if you take the urine then the seller might walk away too. If I'd have had timewasters looking at my car, I'll have politely (at first) told 'em where to go. Thankfully Chrome was most fair, and I hope I was most fair to him too

Having sold a car privately for the first time a few weeks ago, all the above seems fair apart from the water in the boot comment. Don't set out with the attitude that you want to shaft the seller, as that implies that it's fair game for the seller to shaft you if they can... Some people might be like that, but you should be able to spot 'em.

Buy with your head, not your heart.

JV

That's the trouble, from the picture I've seen and the specs that it's got, my heart has already bought it!

RB5320

The last thing I want to do is keep a booklet telling me just how much money my car costs me!!!
Anyway, a couple of maybe obvious things on a MY99/00 - make sure the cambelt has been done, regardless of how many miles, as it is due at the 3 year service (although having said that I think it may have changed for the MY00?) This is expensive and often entails the cambelt tensioner being replaced aswell, also expensive.
Also brake discs are likely to need changing if not already done. A subaru dealer will charge about £400 for discs and pads.

Steve

hail-hail

Re: cheesboy advice: excellent stuff, checking the washer fluid though, come on If it's not atleast half full then walk away...lol

Would be a good idea to look at someones scoob from here and they could point you to ALL the little things to check. It will also give you time to get a good feel for a correct looking impreza.

You are more than welcome to spend some time going over mine, i'm in herts. I'm sure someone else from here will offer the same more locally.

It may be worth talking to a body expert like Dentmaster who could check thoroughly for ANY body repairs.

On a different point, how do people avoid the
"I won't buy it unless I can test drive it"
v
"You ain't test driving it without insurance"

stevem2k

get some insurance on it. It should only cost a few quid for cover for a day.

From the seller's perspective, if someone wasn't insured FC to drive my car, they wouldn't. Prangs on test drives happen (sod's law), and I wouldn't want to put myself in a postion where I could lose £££.

Steve

scooby_si

also in regards the starting from cold listen for it sounding liek a diesel which could be piston slap which wont show with a warm engine. On the clutch front it may still have a bit of life & not slip when doing aforemetioned test but if the bite point is very near top of lifting off then it is also lacking a long life left, i no kuz i just had 2 fork out 4 a new un
Other than that go to some of the local meets (presuming u have time) so u can make friends with locals who no good & bad points from experiance & maybe able to help u spot a lemon
Si
PS unusual tyre wear i wood see more as a negotiating point as u will need new rubber £80+ per corner & full geometry setting up properly £100+ unless the wheels r perpendicular than shouldn't b too serious (yes i got a set of strangely worn 17"ers if u wana buy 'em )

terzo42

thats a lot of things to check out guys ,if you can afford it buy from a dealer you will pay more but with so many things to go pop its just peace of mind

scooby_si

true i suppose but u will pay a HEALTHY (read OTT) price for such assurance & there r plenty 2 choose from elsewhere but u pays yer money etc etc
SI

AndyC_772

iTrader: (2)

If you ask very nicely indeed, someone on SN might just let you drive their car so that you can tell what a good one feels like - there's no need for anyone to lie about 'they all do that' if they're not actually trying to sell. Someone may even come with you to look at the car if you ask. Turning up to view in a Scooby won't do your bargaining power any harm at all!

Don't be afraid to ask some very direct questions at the start - 'has this car ever been involved in an accident', 'how long do your brakes/tyres last', 'are there any paperwork irregularities', that sort of thing. Make sure that the owner has the installation certificate for the alarm - you'll need it - and the PIN. The same key should open all the locks and start the car, and the transponder for the Sigma alarm is badged Subaru. You should get two of each.

Lots of cars have interior squeaks and rattles, so don't necessarily treat that as a sign that the car is well-used or has been poorly cared for. MY00's often suffer from a juddery clutch when cold, although in this weather it shouldn't happen at all.

The PPP consists of some blue hoses (check around the intercooler - it should be branded Prodrive), a new exhaust (again branded Prodrive), and an ECU. You'll feel the difference when you drive the car. Be warned that the rather fruity grumble changes to a very loud screech at about 4500 rpm on full throttle with the PPP - it had me worried until I heard it was normal.

Andy.

Trick

from someone who is on the lookout for a nice Subaru, Ive found this post extremely useful.

Thanks all.

UberGeek

Me too - very useful stuff one and all - thanks

JV

I’ve now gone and had a look at the car and very nice it is too
Making a list of all the things mentioned above helped loads as when it came to actually being there my mind went a bit blank and I just wanted to stand and stare at it!

Nearly everything checked out ok. The chassis number matched the log book although we couldn’t find where the engine number was – anyone know? Service history was stamped with the last one being 3yr/45k (cambelt was changed). There was a certificate for the PPP being fitted @ 16 miles.

Exterior was generally fine apart from a couple of small chips and the wheels had a few small scrapes on the rims.

Interior could have done with a bit of a polish but no major scratches. Small tear on side edge of drivers seat – presumably easy to catch as you get in and out. Boot was clean and dry.

Electrics and aircon all worked apart from N/S side light which he didn’t seem to know about- easy to change bulb? Remote central locking worked ok.

We then went for a drive. He drove first and as far I could tell it went very well – excellent handling round bumpy corners, then we came to a junction and he gave it some welly pulling away. Jesus – how quick to 60?!! He then pulled over and offered me a go providing I had “a gentle right foot” I had all the best intentions to drive cautiously and didn’t want to look like a prat so gave it a tiny amount of revs and slowly let the clutch out. F-ing hell, I knew it was quick but wasn’t prepared for how responsive it would be and how quick it would rush through the revs! The smallest amount of throttle and it surges forward insanely I’d forgotton what it was like to drive a proper handling car as well (I used to have a Prelude VTEC but am currently stuck with a Mondeo ) It cruised round bends perfectly.

So far so good. The only things that worry me are:
-The extended warranty wasn’t renewed after the 3 years were up last October – What are my options for sorting this out????
- The guy didn’t know what tyre pressures he should be running – he leaves that to the dealer to check!!
- He didn’t seem to wash it much – dealer again!

The price was good though. The car is a 99V with Prodrive engine, body kit, wheels, quickshift and colour coding, 36000miles, fssh, silver for £10500. I knocked him down to £10200 providing the AA/HPI check is ok. Does this sound about right?

scooby_si

sounds not unhealthy
When u say he doesnt wash it much i take it it was actually clean when u saw it thou as else that may mask other imperfections the engine number Vin plate thingamy shud b on a metal plate under bonnet , mine is along the passenger side of the engine bay right by where the bonnet shuts against the wing as i recall i wood note thou that the number will not match up with the descriptions given in the SIDC faq if it's a UK car they only works on imports as i discovered when i originally fort mine was a MY98.......(days b4 i found scoobynet)
The driving phenomenon does take sum getting used to & i still have 2 remind myself that the power is right at the top of the rev range & as such can keep feeding on the power, i drive sahort journeys in the week so dont get chance to muller it since it wont really of warmed up properly but my point red lining it maybe overkill but when all warmed up etc just keep reving baby b4 the need 2 change gear lol
Si

scooby_si

although did i get wrong end of stick with that but anyway it's got the "model code" as described on SIDC faq thingamy, which as i say dont work on the UK cars
Si

chiark

Sounds like a brilliant price IMHO!

The engine number is apparently on the block near the alternator, but we couldn't find it when I sold mine .

Do the HPI, get the little doubts in your mind fully sorted and, if everything's right, go for it.

One thing the buyer of my car did (Hi Chrome!) was to book an independent check over at TSL Motorsport. For 50 quid + VAT they spent two hours going over everything. When they got the kit out to check the geometry, I was amazed! Find a specialist if you can, and see if they'll do the same. It gives great peace of mind and, IMHO, is much better value than an AA or RAC roadside check.

Trick

scooby_si - whereabouts in warwickshire are you? know any decent scooby garages round there?

Ray_li

chiark

Do TSL travel or do you need to drive the car there?

Ray

hows the new mota? you fitted ya ICE yet?

cheeseboy

JV - nice my friend. It is always good to get good advice form those on here and then even nicer when you find a great car! Good luck with the buy (providing you go ahead) and happy motoring.

Oh and if you are in Munich, dont forget to wave (I will be either in the dark red subaru with gold wheels, or in the gunmetal grey 320ci - can´t miss it either way...)

NM

Sounds good to me .

Now is the time to check with the dealer who serviced the car that everything is straight and no hidden problems. They will have a complete record of all work done on the car. Pop in and see them if they are local.

Dont worry about the extended warranty, just get the car checked out by a pro for peice of mind. Mine hasnt had a thing go wrong with it for the 2 years of ownership (MY98 with now 52K miles). Passed every MOT with flying colours.

When you insure the car say that PPP was fitted when first registered as part of the Subaru upgrade package. Direct Line didnt ask any more for my prodrive extras (suspension, body styling, quick shift etc) as it was fitted as new ! Worth a try and shop around for insurance ! Try at least 10 insurers !

Cheers

Neal

scooby_si

Trick i'm just north of Coventry, come to the Cov are ameet this sunday if yer free/not too far away The guy who organises it is a bit strange (see NM above only kidding )
Anyway garage wise there r loads of decent scoob places not too far away if yer talking about subaru dealers maybe a bit harder to find 1 with the expertese of the specialists Anyway namely Roger Clarkes (just west of Leicester) is my 1st choice for anything MOD or problem/service wise & should be able to help u check out a potential lemon as well if needed? Also many others such as Graham Goode racing in Leicester & further north there's scoobymania, TSL etc in the Nottingham area
Ask away if u want further details links etc (just a bit busy "working" at the minute )
Si

9edited due 2 power of the retard)

[Edited by scooby_si - 4/4/2003 10:22:31 AM]

breezer

Come a few weeks time, if I ain't got a job sorted out I might have to sell mine - a DBM MY00 with a few bits (Eibach's, bumpsteer, gold alloys, Sony CD multichanger, blah). I was looking for an MY99 when I bought it 9 months ago, but this one came up around the right price range 'cos it's higher milage.

If you're still looking around the time, keep an eye out (or mail me now). Best of the old cars, in my opinion and would hate to sell it (or swap for much cheaper?).

chiark

You'd need to take the car there, but IMHO it'd be worth it - especially seeing as AA want 250 quid for a roadside inspection.

New car is fantastic thanks Ray . ICE is still yet to go in, but it'll take a while as I'm not rushing anything.

JV

NM - I phoned the dealer, Bell & Colville, they were very helpfull and confirmed the history of the car as well as telling me that they advised the brakes may need doing at the next service.

They can do a Subaru backed waranty including roadside assistance for £375/yr but I'm not sure if it would be worth it. I've booked the AA inspection and HPI check as there don't seem to any Scooby specialists in the area.

James

NM

AA inspection and HPI will be money well spent m8

Warranty is your choice! you will be restricted to Subaru servicing which is very expensive. Also you will be restricted to mods on your car due to the warranty restrictions!!!!

If you require discs and pads go for some uprated ones on some of the banners on this website, or the scoobyshop. They will most likely be cheaper than getting Subaru to supply and fit standard ones. Also have a look at adverts in Japanese Performance and Banzai magazines. You could always post a thread on the Wheels, tyres and brakes section for latest deals and recommended types.

Cheers

Neal