HELP...Any other Type R Owners
09 July 2002, 02:12 AM
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Does anybody have a manual for the Type R as I am trying to understand what the DIFF LOCK think near the handbrake does......ok ok, I know in general what it does but I was hopeing for a little more in detail description on how to learn more about the car etc....... (DIFF LOCK, Intercooler Spray (including the autospray), that window lock thingy.
Any help greatly appreciated !!!
Scott
Any help greatly appreciated !!!
Scott
09 July 2002, 02:28 AM
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Diff lock has settings...
Starts at 35/65, and it ends at 50/50 when you lock the diff forward.
You should drive it in 35/65 for the majority of the time. If the road is very slippery or extremely wet you might wanna go a few notches forward to increase your grip. And if playing on gravel, try 50/50.
The type R is a great drivers car, handles more like a RWD than any other scooby, and can provide lots of fun.
The window lock will stop your passenger from using their window, pretty simple.
I have a Link in my Type R, so in regards to the Autospray, if the intake temp is quite high and your giving the car some theres a good chance that the spray will go off. But not under normal loads in my experience.
Hope this helps....many other will no doubt add to this brief desrciption...
Starts at 35/65, and it ends at 50/50 when you lock the diff forward.
You should drive it in 35/65 for the majority of the time. If the road is very slippery or extremely wet you might wanna go a few notches forward to increase your grip. And if playing on gravel, try 50/50.
The type R is a great drivers car, handles more like a RWD than any other scooby, and can provide lots of fun.
The window lock will stop your passenger from using their window, pretty simple.
I have a Link in my Type R, so in regards to the Autospray, if the intake temp is quite high and your giving the car some theres a good chance that the spray will go off. But not under normal loads in my experience.
Hope this helps....many other will no doubt add to this brief desrciption...
09 July 2002, 10:53 AM
#3
Scooby Regular
The waterspray seems to have some sort of pressure/temp sensor as standard, you can use the whole bottle in a morning on "auto" if you are having fun.
As for the diff lets quote the FAQ:
12.7.3 The Centre Diff Lock
WRX STi owners have a dial which can be used to generate a burning smell from the middle of the car. STiV owner and Nürburgring expert Phil Gardner describes the correct use:
In Practice
With the switch in the open position (green dash indicator at bottom of bar, coloured full green), the car drives like a rear-drive vehicle. Booting it in a bend will unstick the back, all drive is sent to the axle with the least resistance (i.e.: the back), the tyres light up and the a big broadside soon develops. Back off quickly and it snaps back into line (safe but a bit uncomfortable for passengers and not too cool looking), but balance the power and the drift then continues for a while, nicely sideways and feels good into the bargain.
As you progressively wind the **** forward, more drive is sent to the front axle, to the point at which the handling feels just like my UK car (about 2/3rds to 3/4 forward I would say).
Fully forward (LOCKED on the dash bar) should not be used on the road as the axles are locked and transmission wind-up will occur.
Technical Theory
The STi has 3 controlled differentials; an automatic viscous unit in the front (might actually be mechanical but I doubt it), an automatic mechanical LSD in the rear (you can really feel this one doing its stuff) and a manual, electrically controlled centre diff. UK cars have automatic viscous units in centre and rear positions only, the front retaining an open diff.
The centre and rear diffs on STi Type-R's are the ones that have the big effect on handling. In the OPEN position (bottom green sector of dash bar), the diff is just that - fully open. Torque will be transferred to the axle with least resistance (i.e.: rear normally) and handling will be rear biased accordingly. Torque split is 36:64 front:rear, so lighting up the back tyres is easy. In addition to this, the mechanical LSD in the rear axle locks both rear driveshafts together very quickly once slip is detected, spinning both rear wheels and removing nearly all rear lateral stability, i.e.: the car fish-tails if asked to. Compare this to a Ford Crapi that would light up one wheel only and go nowhere.
As the centre control is wound forward, more locking is applied to the diff. Slip is controlled closely ensuring that proportionally more drive is sent forwards, thus reducing the rear-drive tendencies. I have found that about 2/3 to 3/4 forward provides handling similar to the UK car.
Should the front wheels start to slip, the viscous unit between the driveshafts will progressively lock-up, ensuring that full drive is available to both wheels.
If the centre control is fully forward in the yellow 'lock' position, then the centre diff is no longer a diff as it is 100% locked. Torque split is then 50:50. This is identical to locking a centre diff in a Land Rover for example. You cannot negotiate tight bends or roundabouts as the axles require differential slip and there is no diff operation to oblige. On slow bends on the road, you will plough straight on, but on high speed, loose surfaces (rally stages, big fast sweepers at the Ring etc.), stability might be aided. As you can guess, this locked position should be used only off road....
.... or in heavy snow actually, when going up hill or pulling away. The LSD's in this situation will lock each end, and the centre lock will tie both ends together - useful and actually full, permanent 4WD. Trying to negotiate a snowy corner in this guise will not work for obvious reasons.
Driving environment Centre diff
Dry, normal driving Open
Wet, 'progressive' driving 2/3rds Locked
All other Anywhere between the two
As for the diff lets quote the FAQ:
12.7.3 The Centre Diff Lock
WRX STi owners have a dial which can be used to generate a burning smell from the middle of the car. STiV owner and Nürburgring expert Phil Gardner describes the correct use:
In Practice
With the switch in the open position (green dash indicator at bottom of bar, coloured full green), the car drives like a rear-drive vehicle. Booting it in a bend will unstick the back, all drive is sent to the axle with the least resistance (i.e.: the back), the tyres light up and the a big broadside soon develops. Back off quickly and it snaps back into line (safe but a bit uncomfortable for passengers and not too cool looking), but balance the power and the drift then continues for a while, nicely sideways and feels good into the bargain.
As you progressively wind the **** forward, more drive is sent to the front axle, to the point at which the handling feels just like my UK car (about 2/3rds to 3/4 forward I would say).
Fully forward (LOCKED on the dash bar) should not be used on the road as the axles are locked and transmission wind-up will occur.
Technical Theory
The STi has 3 controlled differentials; an automatic viscous unit in the front (might actually be mechanical but I doubt it), an automatic mechanical LSD in the rear (you can really feel this one doing its stuff) and a manual, electrically controlled centre diff. UK cars have automatic viscous units in centre and rear positions only, the front retaining an open diff.
The centre and rear diffs on STi Type-R's are the ones that have the big effect on handling. In the OPEN position (bottom green sector of dash bar), the diff is just that - fully open. Torque will be transferred to the axle with least resistance (i.e.: rear normally) and handling will be rear biased accordingly. Torque split is 36:64 front:rear, so lighting up the back tyres is easy. In addition to this, the mechanical LSD in the rear axle locks both rear driveshafts together very quickly once slip is detected, spinning both rear wheels and removing nearly all rear lateral stability, i.e.: the car fish-tails if asked to. Compare this to a Ford Crapi that would light up one wheel only and go nowhere.
As the centre control is wound forward, more locking is applied to the diff. Slip is controlled closely ensuring that proportionally more drive is sent forwards, thus reducing the rear-drive tendencies. I have found that about 2/3 to 3/4 forward provides handling similar to the UK car.
Should the front wheels start to slip, the viscous unit between the driveshafts will progressively lock-up, ensuring that full drive is available to both wheels.
If the centre control is fully forward in the yellow 'lock' position, then the centre diff is no longer a diff as it is 100% locked. Torque split is then 50:50. This is identical to locking a centre diff in a Land Rover for example. You cannot negotiate tight bends or roundabouts as the axles require differential slip and there is no diff operation to oblige. On slow bends on the road, you will plough straight on, but on high speed, loose surfaces (rally stages, big fast sweepers at the Ring etc.), stability might be aided. As you can guess, this locked position should be used only off road....
.... or in heavy snow actually, when going up hill or pulling away. The LSD's in this situation will lock each end, and the centre lock will tie both ends together - useful and actually full, permanent 4WD. Trying to negotiate a snowy corner in this guise will not work for obvious reasons.
Driving environment Centre diff
Dry, normal driving Open
Wet, 'progressive' driving 2/3rds Locked
All other Anywhere between the two
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