Potential high mileage pitfalls.....MY99?
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Just at 78k and although not too high, mileage being racked up quickish.... Heard mentioned on here, that whilst the cambelt done at 90k to get crank seal done to save labour charges and cost of new cambelt later on....
Just had rear wheel bearings done and wondering if the rot will generally set in soon?
What costly delights are around the corner?
Car hasn't exactly been driven gently... although care always taken warming/cooling and has FSSH.
Any general info appreciated and would especially love to hear the acoounts that say "no problems at all and mpg increases to 50mpg and your tyres and discs/pads stop wearing at 85k.....!!!"
Thanks in advance
Just had rear wheel bearings done and wondering if the rot will generally set in soon?
What costly delights are around the corner?
Car hasn't exactly been driven gently... although care always taken warming/cooling and has FSSH.
Any general info appreciated and would especially love to hear the acoounts that say "no problems at all and mpg increases to 50mpg and your tyres and discs/pads stop wearing at 85k.....!!!"
Thanks in advance
#2
The crank seal advice might have been via me... just had to change the crank seal and cam belt again (15k old ) after the seal went at 103,000miles... now just clicked over to 104k.
Mine is an MY96... and has been serviced by Scooby dealers all its life and run on the Helix Semi Synthetic they put in too...
No problems touch wood (except the crank seal)...
No rot and polishes up nicely.. could do with bumpers being resprayed which I might eventually get around to..
MOT was in January and they couldn't find a nut out of place on it and passed it first time.
I have had it since 76k and it has been driven hard but with respect and mainly motorway miles.. warmed up and down etc..
Nothing else to report really.. no rot.. the off rust spot on the roof from stone chips but they don't seem to rust quickly... need to get a touch up pen to them..
JGM
Mine is an MY96... and has been serviced by Scooby dealers all its life and run on the Helix Semi Synthetic they put in too...
No problems touch wood (except the crank seal)...
No rot and polishes up nicely.. could do with bumpers being resprayed which I might eventually get around to..
MOT was in January and they couldn't find a nut out of place on it and passed it first time.
I have had it since 76k and it has been driven hard but with respect and mainly motorway miles.. warmed up and down etc..
Nothing else to report really.. no rot.. the off rust spot on the roof from stone chips but they don't seem to rust quickly... need to get a touch up pen to them..
JGM
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Crank seal advice was via your post thanks.....
Sorry to hassle you again but....How much was your 90k service as I've heard a few scare stories re this....?
Thanks again
Simon
Sorry to hassle you again but....How much was your 90k service as I've heard a few scare stories re this....?
Thanks again
Simon
#4
About £450 including the cambelt change..
just paid £300 for the cambelt and crank seal job.
No hassle at all. I intend running my scooby into the ground.. looked at prices of secondhand and recon engines in advance so it is less of a shock if it happens.
JGM
just paid £300 for the cambelt and crank seal job.
No hassle at all. I intend running my scooby into the ground.. looked at prices of secondhand and recon engines in advance so it is less of a shock if it happens.
JGM
#6
Also if you are worried about service costs ring the dealer and ask as they have standard prices for services...
I keep toying with the idea of servicing it myself and taking it in for the major ones...
JGM
I keep toying with the idea of servicing it myself and taking it in for the major ones...
JGM
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Must admit more concerned with the big breakages etc....
Learned to live with the wear and tear/servicing but a new engine/gearbox/diffs whatever may just break the bank.....
Saw a recon engine on here @ £1200 with turbo et all so plus fitting seems pricey but maybe worth it! You mentioned you priced the big bits....? If you have the time would you mind listing anything you've discovered.
Thanks 'again'
PS Really not that paranoid.... but would consider selling now rather than facing 50k of deteriorating performance and bank balance!!!
Learned to live with the wear and tear/servicing but a new engine/gearbox/diffs whatever may just break the bank.....
Saw a recon engine on here @ £1200 with turbo et all so plus fitting seems pricey but maybe worth it! You mentioned you priced the big bits....? If you have the time would you mind listing anything you've discovered.
Thanks 'again'
PS Really not that paranoid.... but would consider selling now rather than facing 50k of deteriorating performance and bank balance!!!
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#12
Are you still on the original suspension? I just turned over 70k but mine's a bit newer (MY00). Dampers were a bit shabby (not leaking, but definitely an improvement when they were replaced).
#13
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If it's any help Sipie my opinion of your car was that it felt as tight and new as any scooby I've driven including sub 20k ones. In fact the only clue to its mileage was the slightly worn interior but other than that it would be very difficult to tell it had been round the block so many times. I tend to find you can 'feel' when a car is sh@gged and I didn't feel that. Treat her nice and she'll hold I say.
#14
I am on original shocks and springs and it is fine... slight body roll but I think no more than when standard.. keep waiting for them to leak so I can get some decent stuff
Second set of discs are about at the end of their life.
JGM
Second set of discs are about at the end of their life.
JGM
#16
I only change the discs when they start working crapply or if they warp... I ignore the thickness limit etc... mine are currently well well scored...
I am fairly kind on the brakes too.. current set of front pads have done 30k miles and will need replacing fairly soon.
Depends how you drive I guess.
Tyres I will go with... car had good tread when I bought it.. wore them to the limit... then I bought some secondhand wheels with decent tread errrmmm three times and wore them to the limit and then bought the next set etc..
I like my 17s I currently have on I might even buy new tyres this time...
JGM
I am fairly kind on the brakes too.. current set of front pads have done 30k miles and will need replacing fairly soon.
Depends how you drive I guess.
Tyres I will go with... car had good tread when I bought it.. wore them to the limit... then I bought some secondhand wheels with decent tread errrmmm three times and wore them to the limit and then bought the next set etc..
I like my 17s I currently have on I might even buy new tyres this time...
JGM
#17
This is what has been done to mine (MY95 UK Silver 4 door)...
Mods
16" MY99 Wheels
MY00 seats
Powerflow de-cat center and backbox
BlackDiamon grooved front disks and mintex pads
Phillips Vision Plus headlight bulbs
PIAA sidelight bulds
Probs
New Clutch (@ about 120k)
New PAS pump
New Water Pump (@ about 110k)
Crank oil seal (front and back - fixed when the clutch was changed, so no real extra costs)
Noisy heat shield (really must get that fixed)
Crank solinoid replaced (@ 80k. Needs a new one again)
Mods
16" MY99 Wheels
MY00 seats
Powerflow de-cat center and backbox
BlackDiamon grooved front disks and mintex pads
Phillips Vision Plus headlight bulbs
PIAA sidelight bulds
Probs
New Clutch (@ about 120k)
New PAS pump
New Water Pump (@ about 110k)
Crank oil seal (front and back - fixed when the clutch was changed, so no real extra costs)
Noisy heat shield (really must get that fixed)
Crank solinoid replaced (@ 80k. Needs a new one again)
#19
78 k, lol Just run in then..... Sideways old wagon (MY97) had racked up 111k when he sold it, and it drove the same (MY00) with less than 20 k. The suspension and steering felt exactly the same as mine apart from the thinner Anti roll bars I would have no problem with a high mileage Scooby. My RB5 only has 25 k and is just coming up for three years old. I expect to keep this for another four years at least
Cheers Phill C
Cheers Phill C
#20
Mods... are an STi backbox (no real difference, although the turbo spools up quicker? think the old exhaust was blocked?) and a set of cold 17inch Grandturismos.
Currently my tick over is a bit lumpy and goes from 900rpm to 500rpm on occassions so I think the lambarda sensor is on its way out... only from reading posts on here have I come to this conclusion... £50 from Halfords I believe.
JGM
Currently my tick over is a bit lumpy and goes from 900rpm to 500rpm on occassions so I think the lambarda sensor is on its way out... only from reading posts on here have I come to this conclusion... £50 from Halfords I believe.
JGM
#21
SiPie
I've got a UK Turbo MY94 with 98,000 on the clock.
Common problem (looking at other replies) which has happened to mine seems to be the Power Steering Pump at about 90,000.
I've also had front and rear engine oil seals (according to previous owner service history).....I presume this is the crank seal which others talk about.
I've also got the rattling heat shield (just infront of sump) which I too need to replace.
Steve
I've got a UK Turbo MY94 with 98,000 on the clock.
Common problem (looking at other replies) which has happened to mine seems to be the Power Steering Pump at about 90,000.
I've also had front and rear engine oil seals (according to previous owner service history).....I presume this is the crank seal which others talk about.
I've also got the rattling heat shield (just infront of sump) which I too need to replace.
Steve
#22
Crank seal = engine front seal yes...
Out of interest how many people have the engine under tray fitted..
Mine is off but going back on tonight, just wondering if this is why my heat shields are still okay at 104,000miles. If you haven't got one then you might not know what I mean but basically is it a large black plastic tray that bolts under the engine and so you cannot see day light out the bottom of the engine bay and lightwise crap and water cannot get in.
Also how much is a power steering pump? mine is still on the original I believe, although there is a gap in the receipts but stamps in the book for upto 40k miles I think with my car.
Can a dealer get access to what was done and when?
JGM
Out of interest how many people have the engine under tray fitted..
Mine is off but going back on tonight, just wondering if this is why my heat shields are still okay at 104,000miles. If you haven't got one then you might not know what I mean but basically is it a large black plastic tray that bolts under the engine and so you cannot see day light out the bottom of the engine bay and lightwise crap and water cannot get in.
Also how much is a power steering pump? mine is still on the original I believe, although there is a gap in the receipts but stamps in the book for upto 40k miles I think with my car.
Can a dealer get access to what was done and when?
JGM
#23
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Steve H
Thanks for that re PAS pump.... mine not whining but almost makes squeeking noise (but only when warmed up)and fluid new and full etc so presume it's on it's way out.....
Any rough ideas for cost of pump.. second hand or dealer?
Thanks to all for replies and to roughly mirror somebodies reply earlier "good to see that the UK scoobs seem to stay pretty tight and run on with moderately little hassle if serviced properly".
Thanks for that re PAS pump.... mine not whining but almost makes squeeking noise (but only when warmed up)and fluid new and full etc so presume it's on it's way out.....
Any rough ideas for cost of pump.. second hand or dealer?
Thanks to all for replies and to roughly mirror somebodies reply earlier "good to see that the UK scoobs seem to stay pretty tight and run on with moderately little hassle if serviced properly".
#25
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Nice to read about Scoobies and reliability, been looking at getting another one for a while now but all the various "just thrown a rod" and "piston slap" type threads was making me wary of getting anything with more than a few k on the clock.
I think I was unlucky when I had the power rack go on my WRX a few years ago, had only done 42k miles!
Ken
I think I was unlucky when I had the power rack go on my WRX a few years ago, had only done 42k miles!
Ken
#26
I think if the car is driven with some respect for it they should be fine... I do redline mine and drive on boost but not every 5minutes...
There does seems to be cars that have let go and the owner says they were not abusing it at the time, but did they previously?
Other where they were going 140mph at the time etc..
I stick to below 100mph as there is the rumour that the air scoop loses air flow above about 120mph due to the aerodymics and therefore intake temperatures take a sudden increase in temperature.
But there is also proof of cars that are abused and still running fine..
I think perhaps a large percentage of us on here drive a bit harder than Mr Average so it is not a fair selection to say that 20% of cars let go for example but 20% of Scoobynet cars let go and there must be another 50% of owners that are not on scoobynet and drive like a saint and only 2% of the engines have let go etc..
dunno if I made sense there? and figures were plucked from the air for an example only.
It is still worth buying a car with the least miles on the clock you can get as resale will be better should you want to sell it on later.. but like you say they seem to be a reliable car..
I hope I am not going to regret saying this.. but every other car I have had to spend less on servicing as the parts were cheaper but paid for extra repairs left right and centre and probably cost me lots more than the Scooby which mainly just needs servicing..
Keep wondering about servicing it myself but the dealer gives it a wash and a hoover and an important stamp in the book.
JGM
There does seems to be cars that have let go and the owner says they were not abusing it at the time, but did they previously?
Other where they were going 140mph at the time etc..
I stick to below 100mph as there is the rumour that the air scoop loses air flow above about 120mph due to the aerodymics and therefore intake temperatures take a sudden increase in temperature.
But there is also proof of cars that are abused and still running fine..
I think perhaps a large percentage of us on here drive a bit harder than Mr Average so it is not a fair selection to say that 20% of cars let go for example but 20% of Scoobynet cars let go and there must be another 50% of owners that are not on scoobynet and drive like a saint and only 2% of the engines have let go etc..
dunno if I made sense there? and figures were plucked from the air for an example only.
It is still worth buying a car with the least miles on the clock you can get as resale will be better should you want to sell it on later.. but like you say they seem to be a reliable car..
I hope I am not going to regret saying this.. but every other car I have had to spend less on servicing as the parts were cheaper but paid for extra repairs left right and centre and probably cost me lots more than the Scooby which mainly just needs servicing..
Keep wondering about servicing it myself but the dealer gives it a wash and a hoover and an important stamp in the book.
JGM
#27
As it's not been mentioned, the bearings on my turbo have needed attention. It's a UK MY97 and done circa 80,000 miles.
Other items such as clutch, discs and suspension struts have also been done.
Interesting thread 'cos it's good to be prepared!
Mike
Other items such as clutch, discs and suspension struts have also been done.
Interesting thread 'cos it's good to be prepared!
Mike
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