Newage front and back subframe change
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Newage front and back subframe change
Hi guys
After the car car has basically been sitting for 2 years only doing limted miles though it was time to give it a good overhaul underneath and respray archs etc so far we have got
Front subframe /rear subframe
Spec c quick steering rack
Fuji half moons
Fuji solid propshaft mounts
Fuji 6 speed brush
Fuji 11 oil pump
Fuji sump kit with twinscoll sump
Fuji clutch line
Icp cambelt kit with water pump
Whitline adjustable aims
Whiteline anti lift kit
Whiteline arb back mount
Whitline front droplinks
Perrin back droplinks
Scoobyworld brace
Rocker cover gaskets
Tegwia pollybush
Whitline gearbox Crossmember Pad
Group n mounts
Stage 3 Clutch
Undertay
We was putting a new set of f1 on and noticed the arb mount had snapped off the subframe lucky already got a replacement.
The garages we have rang to get the work done said they know 100 percent which bolts will break taking the bits off but wouldn't tell us.
People who done this sort of work what bolt broke on you so I can get them ordered from icp rather have them then waiting for them to come in
After the car car has basically been sitting for 2 years only doing limted miles though it was time to give it a good overhaul underneath and respray archs etc so far we have got
Front subframe /rear subframe
Spec c quick steering rack
Fuji half moons
Fuji solid propshaft mounts
Fuji 6 speed brush
Fuji 11 oil pump
Fuji sump kit with twinscoll sump
Fuji clutch line
Icp cambelt kit with water pump
Whitline adjustable aims
Whiteline anti lift kit
Whiteline arb back mount
Whitline front droplinks
Perrin back droplinks
Scoobyworld brace
Rocker cover gaskets
Tegwia pollybush
Whitline gearbox Crossmember Pad
Group n mounts
Stage 3 Clutch
Undertay
We was putting a new set of f1 on and noticed the arb mount had snapped off the subframe lucky already got a replacement.
The garages we have rang to get the work done said they know 100 percent which bolts will break taking the bits off but wouldn't tell us.
People who done this sort of work what bolt broke on you so I can get them ordered from icp rather have them then waiting for them to come in
#2
Scooby Regular
think nothing to worry with above parts , add roll centre kit to alk
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
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#4
Scooby Regular
Whats the saying, hope none breaks but expect every one of them to break.
Petrol filler neck is a good one to check.
Sorry to hear about your little one, how old were they.
Petrol filler neck is a good one to check.
Sorry to hear about your little one, how old were they.
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I'll keep spraying them with WD40 till it gose up to a garage might help it and he was born sleeping
#6
Scooby Regular
Doesn't make it any easier mate
Just keep soaking them, you're underside isn't that bad is it? Think you will be fine with it, are they going to replace bolts if they need to or will you need to source.
Just keep soaking them, you're underside isn't that bad is it? Think you will be fine with it, are they going to replace bolts if they need to or will you need to source.
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I can get new bolts if I need them but hopefully most of them will be alright as went a bit mad on the parts underside is good we wax oiled it as soon as we got it back 4 years ago
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#8
Scooby Regular
I think you will be fine mate. Should make the job easier for the garage lol
#9
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
#10
Scooby Regular
This is only based on my own experience across half a dozen cars I've worked on ,but;
- Rear ARB bolts bush bracket bolts seem to love snapping. I've got normal M6's & Nyloks on there at the moment but will be replacing the actual ARB mounts when I pull the back end apart next and just replace the whole lot with fresh stuff.
- Balljoint bolts on the front LCA can be a pain too. I've had them come apart easily before but on my original (18yr old) untouched one the head sheared off pretty easily even with plus gas and heat on the thread. The bolt is easy enough to get hold of but getting the old one out is a git
- Rear outer control arm bolts have a habit of seizing as a significant portion of the centre section is exposed to the elements. Soak it, soak it and soak it. Then get someone to smack the end of the bolt as you undo it with a buzz gun (or ratchet) and that should get it out okay. Some people just cut them but you're still left with needing to get the bit that's left out the rear hub!
- If you've got the front end disassembled anyway then give the lower radiator support a check for rust as quite often they're rather soft and perforated.
- Basically anything with a 10 or 12mm head go easy, anything bigger and you should be fine to wail on them. For the bolts which go into the chassis a Bilt Hamber S50 aerosol lance can be quite a useful attachment on a can of plusgas as it lets you douse the inside of the chassis legs where the captive nuts are to help free off any corrosion
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
This is only based on my own experience across half a dozen cars I've worked on ,but;
- Rear ARB bolts bush bracket bolts seem to love snapping. I've got normal M6's & Nyloks on there at the moment but will be replacing the actual ARB mounts when I pull the back end apart next and just replace the whole lot with fresh stuff.
- Balljoint bolts on the front LCA can be a pain too. I've had them come apart easily before but on my original (18yr old) untouched one the head sheared off pretty easily even with plus gas and heat on the thread. The bolt is easy enough to get hold of but getting the old one out is a git
- Rear outer control arm bolts have a habit of seizing as a significant portion of the centre section is exposed to the elements. Soak it, soak it and soak it. Then get someone to smack the end of the bolt as you undo it with a buzz gun (or ratchet) and that should get it out okay. Some people just cut them but you're still left with needing to get the bit that's left out the rear hub!
- If you've got the front end disassembled anyway then give the lower radiator support a check for rust as quite often they're rather soft and perforated.
- Basically anything with a 10 or 12mm head go easy, anything bigger and you should be fine to wail on them. For the bolts which go into the chassis a Bilt Hamber S50 aerosol lance can be quite a useful attachment on a can of plusgas as it lets you douse the inside of the chassis legs where the captive nuts are to help free off any corrosion
Champion cheers mate
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