Samj

Is there a guide or how to for removing the engine from a newage WRX at all? I've got a hawkeye wagon, but pretty sure all newage will be the same. I'm looking to review whether it's within my capability of dropping a new lump in myself, rather than paying to have my current 2.5 rebuilt (early stages of bottom end knock).

Filski

Very doable, first time i did it i had a good look at youtube as plenty of decent videos on there. If you doing it first time in and out would be very helpful to have help to push and shove engine in and out as it can be tricky, after that you can prob do it on your own just will be slower.

First time label wires tuck everything away put rugs on bodywork. take off the bonnet as well as it helps

From memory you will need to take off inlet as makes life easier. PAS can stay connected and tucked to a side. Air con will need to come off i think it may be possible to tuck to the side as well but i have removed the whole unit. Rad will need to come off as well.

Then its as simple as undoing the exhaust to turbo manifold off gearbox bolts including the clutch fork. then the engine mount bolts underneath.

then crane it out and do it slowly making sure nothing is getting caught.

I think I may have missed few things but overall that about a run through process.

Good luck

Samj

Is it possible to get the gearbox out with it? Would seem a good plan to go 6 speed if I dropped a forged lump in, so I could run the 400+ it's capable of

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

I would say no, not if you are lifting the engine out at least.

If you have a car lift, however, you could probably unbolt subframe (etc) and lift the car body up. Not easily doable with home type lifting gear

IMO engine out looks worse than what it actually is. Once you start removing stuff, it's not so bad.
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ive always left inlet manifold in place, as it gives something solid to lift around, but removing it will make the package a bit lighter

Turbovin

iTrader: (2)

No need to remove the intake manifold. In my case I found it easier to remove the exhaust manifold though as the heat shields on the twin scroll manifold were very close to the chassis under the radiator on my classic.

I recommend having a helper on both removal and fitting unless you're an expert. I cracked one cambelt cover once.

MarkRF

Hardest bit for me was the 2 14mm bolts on the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing. Combination of extensions etc.

Filski

I guess there is no need to remove manifold, when i did it on my own it felt like i had fair bit more room that way and taking maniforld off was quite easy, plus i needed the access to under there anyway. Not having helper makes it much longer process esp when putting back as it can be bit of fine movement trying to align gearbox and block.